Lets talk GEC!

dantzk8 said:
Here is how all that looks. You can see that the bar and the spring is the same and unique part of the mechanism. You can as well see there is no much steel around the pin, thus the risk to damage irremediably the knife by using a power tool on that part of the bar. If i well remember it didn't take more than three sharpening to fix the issue. I kept on using the knife between each sharpening.

ONBiUubh.jpg

Not my picture but can't remember who was the member who posted it. Hope he will forgive me.

Dan.
Click to expand...

Wow, I was hoping for a picture like this!

Edit: 10-4 not touching the spring
 
Frank.K said:
I agree that it’s hard to wear down the blade just for this. I have another idea: I can see where part of the tang is making contact inside. It’s shiny and there is a black spot inside. I think this is meant as a stand-off and the geometry is a little wrong. I’m tempted to put a drop of solder, J-B weld or a quick lick with my wire feed there to increase the standoff.
Click to expand...

The part you're referring to is called the "kick" and it's the part of the tang that adjusts the ride height of the blade in the blade well.
Part of me wants to encourage you try that idea out, but that's only because I have no stake in this.

I recommend against that. I only see you accidently gluing/soldering your spring to your liner.

You can put a small piece of leather deep into the blade well where it makes contact and save the edge that way.

Otherwise... and I'm being serious here... just close the knife manually; slowly, holding the blade until it rests on it's kick.
 
Hyesouljah said:
yeah, I think I’ll wait to get one in hand then make my decision. Worst come to worst I’m sure someone else will be happy to take it off my hands if I don’t like it.
Click to expand...
That’s a good choice. At least then you’d be able to know it’s going to someone who really wants it
 
EngrSorenson said:
The part you're referring to is called the "kick" and it's the part of the tang that adjusts the ride height of the blade in the blade well.
Part of me wants to encourage you try that idea out, but that's only because I have no stake in this.
.
Click to expand...

I think i’ll try J-B weld or non-lead solder on the kick (I don’t think a soldering iron would affect temper before I could get a little bead on there). And then i’ll probably always close her easy now. What a great knife though, I think it’s gonna be a favorite for years to come.
 
Pretty exited for the 89. Has GEC ever done the apples and oranges acrylic before?
If anyone has pictures of finished A/O acrylic post 'em up.
 
Frank.K said:
I think i’ll try J-B weld or non-lead solder on the kick (I don’t think a soldering iron would affect temper before I could get a little bead on there). And then i’ll probably always close her easy now. What a great knife though, I think it’s gonna be a favorite for years to come.
Click to expand...
Seriously, you have 40 years of blade there. You will never miss 2 sharpenings. Just sharpen it up and be done with it.
 
Frank.K said:
I think i’ll try J-B weld or non-lead solder on the kick (I don’t think a soldering iron would affect temper before I could get a little bead on there). And then i’ll probably always close her easy now. What a great knife though, I think it’s gonna be a favorite for years to come.
Click to expand...
I’ve also heard of people using a small punch to deform or elongate the kick. Not sure how doable it is as I’ve not tried it myself.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top