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Discussion in 'Traditional Folders and Fixed Blades' started by rockgolfer, Jun 23, 2013.
If you want wood on a F&F, you either have to do it yourself or go get a Maserin plow from Mike, they are beautiful.
Agreed. The fact that it’s such a unique pattern compared to everything else out there is maybe enough reason to want to go for one though.
Sell your least favorite of the 15s and spring the 38.
I thought the same. I also want to see the A&O acrylic in hand. Very pleased with the depth of the acrylic on the 85s and curious to see if the 89s are the similar.
I’d like to see the GITD, but the A&O looks way better than I’d pictured it would in my head.
Agreed. I will definitely make an attempt to get both.
that’s a keeper.
That's fair. I might try to get the glow in the dark one, like a moth to a flame.
Yeah, I don’t need it, don’t really see myself picking it over any of my others to carry, but it’s a little weird and glowy so I guess that means I want it.
I just got this nice Mudbug! It was priced around the going rate these days but it came with the sheath as a bonus. I have no remorse. I highly recommend the sheath, it makes the thing just disappear.
One issue I notice is that the blade is making contact inside. Does anyone have experience with this?
I’m considering using a small carbide cutter on my Dremel to fix this by removing a little metal from the lock bar Inside the handle.
I've had a Farm & Field 99 with the same problem. The blade hasn't been ground enough and is a hair too wide. It hits the protuberance of the bar where is set the pin. i wouldn't remove any steel on that part of the knife.
Better is to sharpen the blade. That's what i've done.
Thanks Dan, I’ll move slowly on this as far as breaking out the power tools. I’m thinking now that what the blade is making contact on is a spring and not a lock bar. Probably not a good idea to remove material from the spring if that is the case.
Did you have to remove much blade before it stopped making contact?
I have a couple GEC's that have blade rap. I strongly recommend closing the blade slowly, not messing with anything, and not deliberately sharpening the blade back.
Blade rap bothers me a lot, but some knives just require a little babying until you've used them enough to reduce the rap to nothing.
Then go on- open and close it to your hearts content any which way you please.
yeah, I think I’ll wait to get one in hand then make my decision. Worst come to worst I’m sure someone else will be happy to take it off my hands if I don’t like it.
I really want one of those stainless #89s! I wonder why they aren't using the acorn shield for them, like they usually do for their 440C offerings?
One method that many people have employed with success is to stuff a small piece of leather in the bladewell over the center pin hump. Think of the kind of leather you'd use for tying a lanyard, something like that. It is usually thick enough that the liners keep it in place, and it will stop the blade from crashing into the spring and save your edge. I bought a 77 barlow second-hand that had blade rap (a rarity on that pattern, unlike some of the other patterns) into which the previous owner put a piece of leather like that, and it solved the problem. Didn't affect the action, was just fine.
Here is how all that looks. You can see that the bar and the spring is the same and unique part of the mechanism. You can as well see there is no much steel around the pin, thus the risk to damage irremediably the knife by using a power tool on that part of the bar. If i well remember it didn't take more than three sharpening to fix the issue. I kept on using the knife between each sharpening.
Not my picture but can't remember who was the member who posted it. Hope he will forgive me.
Denim would have been amazing but I can't complain about the red linen. I think it is the best looking cover I've seen on the 71s and definitely regretted not picking one up the last time around. I was sort of thinking we would see burlap since they've been using it lately.
I agree that it’s hard to wear down the blade just for this. I have another idea: I can see where part of the tang is making contact inside. It’s shiny and there is a black spot inside. I think this is meant as a stand-off and the geometry is a little wrong. I’m tempted to put a drop of solder, J-B weld or a quick lick with my wire feed there to increase the standoff.