Lets talk GEC!

I don't think I've yet seen a GEC knife shield with more than one pin. Usually just one at or near center.
You know, you may be right. Without going and checking a bunch of others, I can't dispute that. I may be thinking of another brand(s). I know some of my old german knives used 2 pins. Either way, what they did looks totally adequate.
 
I got one from them today too, it said 2 left before I ordered. So I guess I got the second to last one and you got the last one. I am very new to knife collecting and the keychain #05 was my first GEC. So I am excited to see what a full size GEC looks and feels like.
Rats!

Checked them earlier, weren't up yet. Of course scalpers already have them on ebay for nearly $200.
 
Try $239.99.
Well, that shouldn't really be surprising. The single blade 74's and 47's were bringing mid three hundreds out of the gate and basically still are. These will probably go up once folks find out the Rosewood's are a relatively small run.

The Remington's will be the one everyone will be clamoring for, but the number of those being produced is huge and multiples of the Rosewood.
 
Well, that shouldn't really be surprising. The single blade 74's and 47's were bringing mid three hundreds out of the gate and basically still are. These will probably go up once folks find out the Rosewood's are a relatively small run.

The Remington's will be the one everyone will be clamoring for, but the number of those being produced is huge and multiples of the Rosewood.
I would have assumed sight unseen that I'd have preferred the bocote wood (The actual bullet trapper just doesn't appeal to me as much), but boy, once I saw that rosewood finished, I was smitten.
 
Anybody know what this serial # represents? I know 35 pieces were made in 2011, but why "L111"? Apologies if the answer is obvious, but I thought GEC did a 1 out of 35 kind of serial #. It's a club SFO.

just a guess also, that year there were 4 different 720111 and 720111LT made and combined there were 111 serialized, maybe she did all 4 together and you have #111 and the L is indicating you have a lock back
 
I'm going to post this question on this thread because GEC uses a lot of 1095. For the couple nice ones I leave in storage, I use a generous amount of mineral oil and I wrap them back up. I then put the tubes in a zip lock baggie. It seems to work well enough; however, how many times a year will they need to be re-oiled? I live in a humid environment, please feel free to comment.

Best regards,
 
I'm going to post this question on this thread because GEC uses a lot of 1095. For the couple nice ones I leave in storage, I use a generous amount of mineral oil and I wrap them back up. I then put the tubes in a zip lock baggie. It seems to work well enough; however, how many times a year will they need to be re-oiled? I live in a humid environment, please feel free to comment.

Best regards,

If you're going to put the tubes in a zip lock bag, get some small desicant (moisture absorbent) packs to put in the baggie - not the tube. The ones about the size of the sugar packages on the table in restaurants, etc. I guess it's just me but I don't use mineral oil for storage. Rather, I use gun oil, i.e., Remington Rem Oil. Machine oil is good too. I sometimes use Food Safe Mineral Oil to lube the joints. Further, once prepared for storage, I don't go back and repackage unless I have a reason to get to the knife. Otherwise, I just leave em in the tube undisturbed.
 
If you're going to put the tubes in a zip lock bag, get some small desicant (moisture absorbent) packs to put in the baggie - not the tube. The ones about the size of the sugar packages on the table in restaurants, etc. I guess it's just me but I don't use mineral oil for storage. Rather, I use gun oil, i.e., Remington Rem Oil. Machine oil is good too. I sometimes use Food Safe Mineral Oil to lube the joints. Further, once prepared for storage, I don't go back and repackage unless I have a reason to get to the knife. Otherwise, I just leave em in the tube undisturbed.
I agree with Modoc ED for the most part. I've been storing carbon steel knives with good results for 35 plus years. The oils he mentioned are all good. Mineral oil is all natural, clear, food safe, and doesn't become rancid. Many custom knife makers use it exclusively. It is good to put on handle materials as well to help preserve them, especially stag, ivory, and bone. I do the opposite and coat the outside and blades with mineral oil, and use Rem Oil on the joints as it contains teflon and reduces friction. A drop of Benchmade Blue Lube seems to smooth the joints as well. You don't need any special snake oils to maintain them. I personally don't like to use zip lock bags. I keep them in the tubes and store them in plastic ammo boxes, as they fit upright and store well. I do a check on mine maybe once or twice a year. The oil is still typically in place. The only issue sometimes is the brass may oxidize.
 
I don't like or use plastic zip lock bags either. I just mentioned using desicant in them because they do hold moisture.
 
I'm going to post this question on this thread because GEC uses a lot of 1095. For the couple nice ones I leave in storage, I use a generous amount of mineral oil and I wrap them back up. I then put the tubes in a zip lock baggie. It seems to work well enough; however, how many times a year will they need to be re-oiled? I live in a humid environment, please feel free to comment.

Best regards,
If I wanted to have good feelings about preserving a 1095 knife for long term storage, I would probably apply beeswax to the surfaces I was concerned about (including the inside and outside of the back spring.
I would oil the joint liberally, then wrap it in wax paper and put it in a Rubbermaid container with a desiccant.

Anyone ever consider submerging the knife in something like mineral oil? I'd be concerned about possible side-effects for the knife scales, but that sure would be a bulletproof method of preserving the steel.
 
I don't like or use plastic zip lock bags either. I just mentioned using desicant in them because they do hold moisture.
Oh I agree, desiccant's are a good thing. My knives are stored in a climate controlled situation, but I use desiccant's for other things. If you go to your local pharmacist, they get hundreds of them every day in boxes of drugs. If you ask, they will probably fill you a bag or box at no charge as they just throw them away.
 
If I wanted to have good feelings about preserving a 1095 knife for long term storage, I would probably apply beeswax to the surfaces I was concerned about (including the inside and outside of the back spring.
I would oil the joint liberally, then wrap it in wax paper and put it in a Rubbermaid container with a desiccant.

Anyone ever consider submerging the knife in something like mineral oil? I'd be concerned about possible side-effects for the knife scales, but that sure would be a bulletproof method of preserving the steel.
Beeswax or Renwax would do the job, but will be a bitch to get off after sitting for a long time. You don't have to submerge a knife, just a light coating will suffice. Clean, cool and dry (no moisture) is key for most metals.
 
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