Lets talk GEC!

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Are we thinking new pattern? Would be cool to have some old oak barrel covers. Rod wood and the wormwood have been cool.
 
Rperryman said:
66 racoon skinner in oil barrel covers get my vote.
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Didn't they already do a Skinner on the #66 frame called the Mink Skinner? And a (Ra)Coon Skinner back in 2013 on the #81 frame?
The only other rodent I know of to get skinned by GEC is the Possum, on a #82 frame - unless someone can tell me otherwise of course...
 
dovidola said:
Didn't they already do a Skinner on the #66 frame called the Mink Skinner? And a (Ra)Coon Skinner back in 2013 on the #81 frame?
The only other rodent I know of to get skinned by GEC is the Possum, on a #82 frame - unless someone can tell me otherwise of course...
Click to expand...

Not that it really matters, but none of the animals you listed there are rodents… 😉😁
 
euroken said:
Send it my way...I want your nail to be safe 🤣

I have a ka-bar electrician where the secondary was impossible to open without a blade key...I stuck a tiny screw driver bit into it and left it there for three days and now I can open it. Say the pull is still 7'ish(?) but can open it without a blade key.

R668U2t.jpg
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I actually have a RR camp knife where the caplifter/flat head is a solid 10 and I struggle to open it. Using this method do you have to pretty much hammer that screw driver in there and is there a certain amount you're aiming to lift the backspring by? Would hate to snap the spring.
 
euroken said:
Send it my way...I want your nail to be safe 🤣

I have a ka-bar electrician where the secondary was impossible to open without a blade key...I stuck a tiny screw driver bit into it and left it there for three days and now I can open it. Say the pull is still 7'ish(?) but can open it without a blade key.

R668U2t.jpg
Click to expand...

AZCoyote said:
I actually have a RR camp knife where the caplifter/flat head is a solid 10 and I struggle to open it. Using this method do you have to pretty much hammer that screw driver in there and is there a certain amount you're aiming to lift the backspring by? Would hate to snap the spring.
Click to expand...
Another way to lighten a pull is to carefully file the inside corner of the tang.
This shouldn't affect the spring strength for staying open.
XxsFDy1.jpg
 
dovidola said:
Didn't they already do a Skinner on the #66 frame called the Mink Skinner? And a (Ra)Coon Skinner back in 2013 on the #81 frame?
The only other rodent I know of to get skinned by GEC is the Possum, on a #82 frame - unless someone can tell me otherwise of course...
Click to expand...
I think you are totally right. I also only know these three you mentioned in your post.
 
r8shell said:
Another way to lighten a pull is to carefully file the inside corner of the tang.
This shouldn't affect the spring strength for staying open.
XxsFDy1.jpg
Click to expand...
Have you tried this? How much were you able to lessen the pull? It seems this would affect the initial part of the opening pull, but not the strength required to close the blade.
 
Travman said:
Have you tried this? How much were you able to lessen the pull? It seems this would affect the initial part of the opening pull, but not the strength required to close the blade.
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Yes, exactly. It doesn't affect the staying-open part of the spring. It just lessens the first part of opening, enough that I can get better leverage the rest of the way.

I've only done it a couple of times, but it took a nail breaker down to just a hard-ish pull. If I remember correctly, I've only done it to blades with half stops; I think the square tang makes it easier to know where to file. It's tricky, but doable using jeweler's needle files. Scratching the inside of the liner is inevitable, but it's a user and that part doesn't show anyway.
 
r8shell said:
Another way to lighten a pull is to carefully file the inside corner of the tang.
This shouldn't affect the spring strength for staying open.
XxsFDy1.jpg
Click to expand...
Just did that with the 85 Caplifter and It is perfect now. It took awhile to flush it out afterwards but is smooth as silk now. The pull was about a 9.5-10 when I first received the knife. Took it down to about an 8-9 working it a million times. After about 5 min with a needle file it is perfect at about a 6. Thank you for this wonderful tip.
 
r8shell said:
Another way to lighten a pull is to carefully file the inside corner of the tang.
This shouldn't affect the spring strength for staying open.
XxsFDy1.jpg
Click to expand...
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

My original plan was to do just that (had successfully done this with my previous A.Wright and Son jack). However, on the electrician's knife, the line lock bar pushes to cover the kick. Had heck of a time trying to keep this open and trying to file at the same time. I suppose, I could have built a jig, used a vice, etc to make it work. Regardless, since it had a liner lock, I didn't really worry about the spring strength lessening. Besides, the pull is at a nice 7'ish now so no qualms there.
 
Jakeywax31 said:
Just did that with the 85 Caplifter and It is perfect now. It took awhile to flush it out afterwards but is smooth as silk now. The pull was about a 9.5-10 when I first received the knife. Took it down to about an 8-9 working it a million times. After about 5 min with a needle file it is perfect at about a 6. Thank you for this wonderful tip.
Click to expand...
Nice, I'm glad it worked.
Something I didn't mention: I stuffed bits of oil soaked tissue in the well, near the pivot. File a little, remove the tissue, test the blade pull, stuff new tissue in, repeat. Cuts down on the chance of metal filings getting into the works.

The knife in that picture is my #77 Harness Jack. I was mighty nervous about taking a file to it, but I really, really wanted to use the knife and be able to open the punch blade.

DnCqeh1.jpg
 
euroken said:
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

My original plan was to do just that (had successfully done this with my previous A.Wright and Son jack). However, on the electrician's knife, the line lock bar pushes to cover the kick. Had heck of a time trying to keep this open and trying to file at the same time. I suppose, I could have built a jig, used a vice, etc to make it work. Regardless, since it had a liner lock, I didn't really worry about the spring strength lessening. Besides, the pull is at a nice 7'ish now so no qualms there.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, I'll bet a locking liner adds a whole 'nother frustration factor.
 
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