Lets talk GEC!

I would like to see GEC revise the #15 farmboy with a long pull on the clip and an added EZ open notch.

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Like the spey blade on this old Camillus knife- see how slim it becomes. I love this little ancestor to the #15.

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In regards to the 35 frame wishes:

I really hope to see a smaller version of the 53 stockman made. The Turkish clip main and mark side nail nick on the sheepsfoot. Would be the perfect size!
 
In my excitement that the secret project knife is a #35, I've been eyeballing various cigar patterns out there. I’ve come to realize it’s like the chameleon of knife patterns: great as a stockman, jack or pen. The only thing that looks awkward is that single bladed #99 S&M, partly because of the size of the handle vs the wharnecliffe, but also because of the capped end.

I think a single-bladed #35 with a bare head and a nice fat spear, clip, or sheepsfoot (Ramsfoot?!) would be great though. And I mean as much blade as that bladewell can hold.
 
Back to the jigged bone discussion, in contrast to my elderberry possum skinner and it's rough jigging, this copperhead 82 was smooth as could be right out of the tube. That coupled with the super smooth action on all three blades makes this a great carry.
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That is one helluva beautiful 82!
 
I've tried several times to like the 35 frame and it's just to chunky for my tastes. It's a beautiful frame though.

A new run of 68 white owl knives would be welcomed though!! Feels better in the hand.
Unfortunately, I was just the opposite. When the #35's were upcoming, I said to myself "too chunky for my tastes". "I already have a #68 white owl....". After they hit the stores, a buddy of mine even told me "you have to get one....". I persisted that I didn't need it.

Long story short. I finally relented and I picked up a user off the exchange. Yup, I love it. Added a couple more for good measure.
 
Unfortunately, I was just the opposite. When the #35's were upcoming, I said to myself "too chunky for my tastes". "I already have a #68 white owl....". After they hit the stores, a buddy of mine even told me "you have to get one....". I persisted that I didn't need it.

Long story short. I finally relented and I picked up a user off the exchange. Yup, I love it. Added a couple more for good measure.

cant deny it, some handles are just more comfortable. I find that basic, pickle-like handles are always comfortable in the hand. Not the most exciting- maybe not the most contoured, but they always work! I think the #35 is that way.
 
I've got what I believe to be a dumb question about blade rap.o_O Would it be practical to lightly file the hump on the back spring where the blade usually hits instead of sharpening the edge?

Could enough be filed off to eliminate the blade rap while still maintaining the integrity of the spring and the pin going through it?

Pure speculation on my part, but I can't see how it would hurt the spring, just "dusting" off the hump a little..... the hard part would be getting to it. A cylindrical stone on a dremel might get down in there, but it would be a touchy task. Me? Heck, I'd try it... I've learned to not try to hog out material... easy does it... so it wouldn't scare me to try it.
I don't understand all the physics involved in the spring shape... it might even lighten it up a bit.... who knows? Wheres EngSorenson when you need him? :p

or.... old engineer....any of those "engine" folks that know stuff....

I'd think you'd be removing stock from where the spring needs it the most. I'd hate to file that hump (even if I could!) and have the spring let go. A sharpened knife would still be under warranty.

I would not try Grinding on any area of a spring other than an end .

Harry
I definitely can’t say whether it was a good idea or not. But when I finally got a grinling it had blade rap due to hitting the spring wedge. I folded some course sandpaper twice to stiffen it up and ran it down the middle, it took several pieces, and I knew it had the potential weaken the springs but I figured the wedge doesn’t take much force and most of the material removed was from that. I probably wouldn’t have done it but as I was sharpening out the blade it seemed a shame to loose blade on a whittler unnecessarily.
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As promised.

1¼ inch basswood cube, favorite whittling knife, and recommend a glove.
Draw your Xs.
M2tpswK.jpg

Then just remove a triangle.
wir7OgV.jpg

Then another.
8lsvMav.jpg

Take your time and enjoy yourself.
zLqtCTp.jpg

Soon it will be a star.
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Thank you sir
 
As promised.

1¼ inch basswood cube, favorite whittling knife, and recommend a glove.
Draw your Xs.
M2tpswK.jpg

Then just remove a triangle.
wir7OgV.jpg

Then another.
8lsvMav.jpg

Take your time and enjoy yourself.
zLqtCTp.jpg

Soon it will be a star.
ZqmC05Y.jpg

Thanks to Jiki..... great, fast little project. Took me about 45 minutes to do this.... fun and easy....mine's a little lopsided because it was 1.5 X 1.5 X 1.375.. but it's not readily noticeable.

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Yes I dyed this one as well as giving it a light sand to tidy up the bone. I don’t know if I like the sanded effect, I might have gone a tiny bit too far, but it certainly felt unfinished when it got to me. The preferable treatment is time in a pocket banging against keys and stuff.

There were quite a few of these sitting on dealer’s shelves back then, and I thought why not buy one and dye it, there’s plenty of them to spare.

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Yes, the second run of Beer Scouts was pretty large, took a little while for the acrylic, the jigged bone and the oak to sell. I picked up a second Golden Ale weeks after buying my first...with re-dye my intention as well. It took even longer for the Crown Lifters that came out at the same time to sell. I picked up a Nifebrite Crown Lifter from a dealer over a year later....those days seem to be gone. Neither of these knives look like they did when they left GEC:
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