- Joined
- Dec 7, 2016
- Messages
- 11,261
Although this question wasn't directed at me, I'll answer with my own issues.
To me, the frame lock and liner locks have inherent flaws.
Firstly, both essentially rely on friction to be "locked". There's a fine line between the lock being "solid", and being unsafe. It doesn't simply rely on the contact between the blade and lock surfaces, but also the integrity of the rest of the knife. Also, a knife could be locked better with a solid thwack when opening the knife, or barely locked if gently opened. I think a knife should be locked when locked, unlocked when unlocked, with no varying amount of lock-up inbetween. Granted, a quality frame or liner lock should be as safe for normal use, but you never know.
Second, the nature of the lock means that it'll wear. Yes, all knives wear, but frame and liner locks are the most susceptible. Carbidization and/or lock inserts is a good idea, but it's still a part that wears, and wear can mean unsafeness.
Third, the position of the lock can compromise the security of the lock when gripped. See Joe's story above. Myself, when using the Spyderco Sage 2, I found that a tight grip would actually undo the lock. People say that a tight grip will hold the lock bar tight and keep the knife locked, and that makes sense in theory, but in practice with that particular frame lock my hand would actually push the lock open. Surely, this varies from knife to knife and person to person, so for some people with some knives, it might be an unsafe choice. A liner lock with it's (typically) thinner stock and weaker lock means that it can similarly be accidentally disengaged.
Finally, as some have already mentioned, closing the knife puts your digits - mainly the thumb - in the path of the blade. This has long been my primary beef with frame and liner locks, and the main reason I'm such a fan of the AXIS lock. Flip it open, unlock it and flip it closed, all without needing to even touch the thumb studs. The flipper can act as a stop though, so that's a good development, even if it is incidental to the intention of the flipper tab to be the opening method. However, I'm still not a fan.
Excellent post. I have always found that the claim that holding a knife with a framelock reinforces the lock to be dubious. On almost every one of my ti framelocks the lockbar never is gripped in a way so as to exert any real extra pressure keeping the lockbar over. Rather the lockbar seems to almost always fall in the crook of my curled finger.
This knife suffers from if I close my pointer finger tight it causes the lockbar to get pushes by the fat of my finger towards unlocking. Not enough to unlock but enough to move the bar far enough over that it loses that friction contact you mentioned.
