Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

glennbad said:
Looking great!
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Thank you sir!
EngrSorenson said:
Phenomenal, as always Jeff! Are those case single blade sowbellies?
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Thank you! Yes they were all case yellow delrin sowbellies. The next batch for this guy will be 3 blade sowbellies with a blade delete so I’ll have to make several catch bits for them to hold the spring in place on the blade removal end, that’s going to be interesting.
Lansky1 said:
love the smallmouth bass shield !!!
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Yes! The guy they’re for got those and sent them to me. I couldn’t decide which way to put it so I did it both ways, I know plenty of people have opinions on which way is correct but I’ve seen plenty of shields facing both ways so I don’t know.
 
jsdistin said:
Thank you! Yes they were all case yellow delrin sowbellies. The next batch for this guy will be 3 blade sowbellies with a blade delete so I’ll have to make several catch bits for them to hold the spring in place on the blade removal end, that’s going to be interesting.
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Which blade are they trying to keep? With the sheepsfoot being krinked that would make a weird two-blader. I mean... the customer's always right, but it's interesting to me.
 
EngrSorenson said:
Which blade are they trying to keep? With the sheepsfoot being krinked that would make a weird two-blader. I mean... the customer's always right, but it's interesting to me.
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I would have to go back to the emails to be sure but I think that was the one they wanted to keep. I looked at one of them though and it isn’t krinked all that much and I can krink it the other way, but there will be an asymmetric swedge on the blade, which there are also ways around but I’d have to check on that with them.
 
I have a question for the professional modders. Is there a specific order that is best for inserting and peening the pins? Do you put all three in and peen away? Does it matter if you do the pivot first or last? Or do you need to do the pivot before there is any tension on it?Peen both ends then put in the center pin? I’ve done several and hadn’t really thought about it. I’m just wondering if there is a process or order that is best.
 
I got this knife in a box of parts knives from a forum member. A nice snappy knife, except the blades a little corroded, cracks on the bone, and the tips of both blades were broken off (sorry, no before pics).

I cleaned the active rust off, sealed the cracks in the bone. I reprofiled the clip blade, and turned the pen blade into a little coping blade. Put a new edge on, and she makes a great carry!

Trapper mod 1.jpg
Trapper mod 2.jpg
 
Sacto said:
I have a question for the professional modders. Is there a specific order that is best for inserting and peening the pins? Do you put all three in and peen away? Does it matter if you do the pivot first or last? Or do you need to do the pivot before there is any tension on it?Peen both ends then put in the center pin? I’ve done several and hadn’t really thought about it. I’m just wondering if there is a process or order that is best.
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Depends on the knife. I'm not sure that there is an "official" order to do them in. Myself, for a Jack I generally I start with the butt end(cap), then center pin, last the pivot. If it's blades at each end, then sometimes I will start in the center, then do ends after. I prefer to do blade pivots last where possible so I can adjust blade action while peening.
 
glennbad said:
Depends on the knife. I'm not sure that there is an "official" order to do them in. Myself, for a Jack I generally I start with the butt end(cap), then center pin, last the pivot. If it's blades at each end, then sometimes I will start in the center, then do ends after. I prefer to do blade pivots last where possible so I can adjust blade action while peening.
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Thanks for the reply. That’s basically what I have been doing. Then I started second guessing myself and wondering if it would be better to do the pivot first without tension on the spring. It makes sense to do it last to adjust tension like you said.
 
glennbad said:
Depends on the knife. I'm not sure that there is an "official" order to do them in. Myself, for a Jack I generally I start with the butt end(cap), then center pin, last the pivot. If it's blades at each end, then sometimes I will start in the center, then do ends after. I prefer to do blade pivots last where possible so I can adjust blade action while peening.
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Sacto said:
Thanks for the reply. That’s basically what I have been doing. Then I started second guessing myself and wondering if it would be better to do the pivot first without tension on the spring. It makes sense to do it last to adjust tension like you said.
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I’m pretty much the same but I usually try to peen the center first to make sure the back springs are nice and tight in the liners then the butt end and finally the pivot. In putting it together I always do it so that I can use the kick to push the spring down and pop the blade in place. I’m sure there’s plenty of other ways too though.
 
I thought I'd post some pics of my lightly modified Case 6347 stockman... The spey blade on these really blocks the nick in the sheepfoot blade, plus it's got a pretty goofy shape (IMHO). I also think the sheepfoot blade nose is sort of "humped" looking from the factory.... Plus this one came with an upturned grind out at the tip on the sheepfoot, so I thought I'd try to correct all of those items. So, I lowered the kick on the spey, and rounded the weird shaped end, and changed the curve on the spine of the sheepfoot, along with straightening the edge grind.
My goal was to make a nice knife more ergonomic... I have included pre and post pics....

Appearance from the mark side....
Fv06pRe.jpg
RlSjNPR.jpg

Appearance from the pile side...
94kFbFC.jpg
XSE5ClI.jpg

Sheepfoot shape before/after...
8KrkgyI.jpg
pp0rH7X.jpg

Spey shape before/after....
SBt2JeM.jpg
5ne8TH4.jpg
 
hornetguy said:
I thought I'd post some pics of my lightly modified Case 6347 stockman... The spey blade on these really blocks the nick in the sheepfoot blade, plus it's got a pretty goofy shape (IMHO). I also think the sheepfoot blade nose is sort of "humped" looking from the factory.... Plus this one came with an upturned grind out at the tip on the sheepfoot, so I thought I'd try to correct all of those items. So, I lowered the kick on the spey, and rounded the weird shaped end, and changed the curve on the spine of the sheepfoot, along with straightening the edge grind.
My goal was to make a nice knife more ergonomic... I have included pre and post pics...
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great work! You made an interesting pen blade.
 
:D Thanks! Yes, it did sort of turn out like an over-grown pen blade. My goal was just to eliminate the weird geometry of the top edge of the blade. I imagine there is some reason that they shape it that way, so that it is a true "spey" blade, but I don't plan to spey any animals in the immediate future, so away it goes. My goals were two-fold, actually. To make it more aesthetically pleasing to my eye, and to make it more ergonomic in handling. I think I've accomplished both my goals. Plus, nobody will want to buy it now, so it's mine, all mine :D:p
 
hornetguy said:
I imagine there is some reason that they shape it that way, so that it is a true "spey" blade, but I don't plan to spey any animals in the immediate future, so away it goes.
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I believe functionally having that flat allows someone to ride the flat against something you don’t want to cut, while slicing the stuff above it. I’ve used it sometimes in wood working for clearing out chips from deep V cuts without leaving another cut behind in the wood.
 
EngrSorenson said:
I believe functionally having that flat allows someone to ride the flat against something you don’t want to cut, while slicing the stuff above it. I’ve used it sometimes in wood working for clearing out chips from deep V cuts without leaving another cut behind in the wood.
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That makes as much sense as anything else I've heard. That's the main reason I won't use anything but a drop point blade for hunting.
 
hornetguy said:
I thought I'd post some pics of my lightly modified Case 6347 stockman... The spey blade on these really blocks the nick in the sheepfoot blade, plus it's got a pretty goofy shape (IMHO). I also think the sheepfoot blade nose is sort of "humped" looking from the factory.... Plus this one came with an upturned grind out at the tip on the sheepfoot, so I thought I'd try to correct all of those items. So, I lowered the kick on the spey, and rounded the weird shaped end, and changed the curve on the spine of the sheepfoot, along with straightening the edge grind.
My goal was to make a nice knife more ergonomic... I have included pre and post pics....

Appearance from the mark side....
Fv06pRe.jpg
RlSjNPR.jpg

Appearance from the pile side...
94kFbFC.jpg
XSE5ClI.jpg

Sheepfoot shape before/after...
8KrkgyI.jpg
pp0rH7X.jpg

Spey shape before/after....
SBt2JeM.jpg
5ne8TH4.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey Hornetguy ... I'm with you on the shape of the factory spey blade on the #47 ... I'm not a fan either. NIce job ! I modded mine with a bit more angular profile, but with the same end goal ... to improve upon it in a way that suits my eye and makes it more user friendly for what I do with a knife...

zwEC3SF.jpg


PS - good job on straightening out the sheepsfoot to get rid of the factory carelessness in rounding over the tip ... can't tell you how many new Case stockmans I've done exactly the same thing to get the tip of the sheepsfoot straight and tidy.
 
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Lansky1 said:
Hey Hornetguy ... I'm with you on the shape of the factory spey blade on the #47 ... I'm not a fan either. NIce job ! I modded mine with a bit more angular profile, but with the same end goal ... to improve upon it in a way that suits my eye and makes it more user friendly for what I do with a knife...

zwEC3SF.jpg


PS - good job on straightening out the sheepsfoot to get rid of the factory carelessness in rounding over the tip ... can't tell you how many new Case stockmans I've done exactly the same thing to get the tip of the sheepsfoot straight and tidy.
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Thanks for the kind words.... I really like the way you did your spey blade... it has a way more useful point on it than mine does. Did you take some of the belly out of the edge, as well? It looks shallower, which I like. I have the same issue with the blade shape of the Sodbuster type knives... a little too much belly for my preference.
 
Yeah, I took some of the belly out of the big forward curve of the spey as well. I too share your sentiments with alot of belly in a clip blade (sodbuster, sowbelly stockman clip and opinel's) - clearly makes for a very sturdy, utilitarian blade, but just doesn't appeal to my eye.
 
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