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Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

pullrich said:
Good work Kissaki. I like the hue of the haft stain. How did you manage the leather wrap under the head?
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Thanks! (The hue is "Rosewood", btw)
I cut the leather to contour the area that meets the head, then I stitched it on with some cotton "Butcher's Twine."
 
just finished my trail hawk. i am more into flintlocks so mine is more traditional. i wish i had welded up that hole on the side, thinking of a brass pin. wood is nice under the factory finish.
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That's awesome! Is the head plum- browned? That's waht I thinking of trying on my pipe or spike hawk.
 
I filed the cap with it mounted it was on the end of the hawk, and used the same stain i put on some of the flintlocks i built. And yes it is mountain laurel forge brown. Need to make some short ones for throwing.
 
That end cap is an OUTSTANDING idea Bowkill...I think I'll try to do a cap on both ends of a haft.
 
i got three trail hawks coming tommorrow and the sole reason for that is this thread.I decided i wanted a hawk after watching some videos on you tube,so then i check this out after being on here several times but never on this specific forum.I am amazed at what is being done to these hawks.I am also considering a hand made forged hawk.i don't want to go too deep wth the money but maybe you guys could make a few suggestions.My main reason for posting and i am fixing to show my lack of experience here but i never really was too proud to ask questions but how do you wrap the the handles and make them look like the ones i see here?Any videos?or other suggestions on mods?Any info would be very much appreciated.Thanks..
 
mct453 said:
.... how do you wrap the the handles and make them look like the ones i see here?Any videos?or other suggestions on mods?Any info would be very much appreciated.Thanks..
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Check out page 46. In fact have some fun, sit down with a drink or two one night and read through the entire thread. Good stuff throughout.
 
pullrich said:
Check out page 46. In fact have some fun, sit down with a drink or two one night and read through the entire thread. Good stuff throughout.
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I found it right after i made my post.I also ordered two more hawks after I printed the wrap procedure off.I am excited about getting them.I am a union craftsman by trade (Boilermaker),and enjoy modifying and working on metal.I think one of the most impressive things to me is the file work and mods to the head.I already have plans to give them as gifts if i can make them look half as good as some of these.Thanks for responding to me.
 
This thread started me off on the road to modifying two Trail Hawks. I just bought two more for custom work. The amount of changes that everyone is doing are endless. Some are radical and some not. The important thing is the men here enjoy making an off the shelf hawk a unique piece suited for their particular use and their craftsman's eye.
This is my favorite thread because of the guys and their enthusiasm. Over the last 4 years, I have bought 15 hawks and all have at least a slight mod. My latest project is underway modding the Cold Steel Spike Hawk. That will be a different thread. The hawks are fun to work on but this thread says more about the creative effort of the craftsmen. Keep it coming!
 
hawkhead said:
Over the last 4 years, I have bought 15 hawks and all have at least a slight mod. ..
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All cold steel hawks?

I'm working on a CS trailhawk and norse, wondering about other vendors people use. Just for a change of pace for next projects. Most others I've seen for sale are at least double the cost of CS, and come more 'finished', so I'd hate to ruin the good work already done.
 
I'm working on two CS hawks now, close to completion. One lesson learned has to do with how much grinding and polishing to do on the heads. I went with hand sanding, started at 150, then 220, 400. Wasnt enough to get much of the pitting out, which didnt concern me until I started into the etching. The presence of pits affects the clarity of the etches. Etches may be even less distinct when I get done putting a brown patina on one of the hawks. Anyways, I wish I had sanded the steel down to a smooth surface, I think it would have helped the etching and the browning. I dont need a mirror, just few or no pits, and that leads to my question.

Is there a reasonable way to do that with just hand sanding? Maybe as simple as more sanding at 150 or a rougher grit? I dont have a shop or even a garage and dont want to invest in any major tools. I'd think about a cheap tool if thats your opinion for best way to go. I have a drill, maybe there are grinding polishing bits I could use. Any input appreciated.
 
JMO but I like the pitted surface which remains on the steel after removing that nasty black lacquer. Once I have patinated it, it makes for a more genuine antique appearance.
 
Since I am not making antique finish hawks, I do not like the rough surface on my modified hawks. I want a smoothe finish on the metal. It will become an antique soon enough. To obtain that finish I use stones, files, medium and fine emery and 3M wet or dry(black) 220 and 320 sand paper. The same used in auto body work.
Anytime you use emery or sand paper Back it with a block. Of course lots of elbow grease is needed along with a heap of patience. You can always take off more BUT, you can't put it back. When the metal is free of pits, I degrease and warm wash the head and spray with Alumahyde II. If you want the pitted finish, That's fine you can also sand or bead blast and patina or rust blue. We all have ways to get what we want. No one is a born Hawkmaster, that take lots of practice. The good news is Cold Steel hawks are cheap and it does not take much to make them just a bit nicer.
 
pullrich said:
Excellent. Key take home point for me is: can be done by hand (back it by a block).
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I have taken a few hawk heads down to 600 grit by hand.
It is a lot of work, but can be done.
For the curved areas I wrap emery cloth around a dowel.

If you want to save yourself hours of work get a 4 ½ inch angle grinder & a flapper disk.
My angle grinder cost $25, I have recently seen them cheaper at OHS & home depot.

Johnbar
 
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