Off Topic: The Lewis and Snark Expedition

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daizee said:
Proportions are way off. That drawing is only 6-7" inside the crescent. Given the handle shape, I'm not sure you'll get much use out of the back edge. Looks expensive to make and hard to heat treat because of the dimensions. Looks cool. MANY pictures Required if you have it made!!
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Yes the proportions suck on the picture, i found the picture online but I want it a little different than how its proportioned on the picture.


This guy has one, OAL ~22 blade length ~16 and 3/16ths thick. Thats prolly a good thickness to use... I might go with 3/16ths if this becomes a possibility
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/736007-Khopesh-by-Chris-Palmer
 
Wow I guess I can buy one made of 1095, a little different than my design, for around 200

100_8279-1.jpg


I mean if he can do this for 200... Im thinking SOMEONE might be able to do what I want for around 500.
 
I just really noticed the handle shape, WONT be great for using the back edge.... Maybe ill change the handle or not sharpen the back edge... I just liked the idea of the double sided dual purpose type thingy LMAO

And bighoss thats a great idea about cutting it out of wood or sheet metal to have a prototype.. But i dont have any tools, and carving that with the bk17 would take my life. I might cut it out of cardboard to get a feel for the size in hand though. Thanks for the tip.
 
worldwood said:
Any faults you guys notice? Anything that you think could be better thought out? Not changing the blade shape, but does the edge geometry or size offer any problems that you guys can think of? And just curious, It wont be before Xmas for sure... But besides handle material, what other info would I need to include to have a maker make this for me?

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If you are going for recreation, then its just finding a maker to forge it out for you... if you want a more functional piece I would just simplify the whole design... give it an update so to speak. Fewer curves/embellishments and would probably have to make the "belly" a bit wider so that it would actually cut worth a darn. Would also have to make sure the curve was supported on the initial neck of the blade if you are going to use it for chopping/hacking stuff. Might need to consider some well heat treated 5160 spring steel too. I know it will make a good tough blade, and its probably a little tougher than 52100 form a forge. It would just depend on the persons ability to heat treat... I could just be talking out my butt though... lol
 
For reference, just the steel in that thickness and width would run around 150 shipped from Aldo (3/16 is 30 bucks less). Add in handle materials, pin stock, acraglass, cost of HT, etc, and you're talking around 200 in materials, if it's done stock removal. Probably a little less in material cost for a forger, but more time spent, and arguably a higher cost. What would you want for guard material? You'd need someone who could forge for that as well, likely, unless you want something easily shapeable.

Personally, if I were going to take on such a project (and I don't think I have the skills to grind that inner curve), I'd probably have it heat treated in blank form, and then do all the grinding post HT, carefully, and at low speed, to avoid the likelihood of warping the blade and having to start from scratch. That would probably be the safest way to do it, although there's still risk, and it would be challenging. I'm waffling back and forth between thinking this would be a really fun project, and thinking it looks like a huge pain. It would certainly challenge the skills of whoever tried it out! There really don't seem to be that many makers who do swords on here. You might check with Stuart Branson, David Stifle, or Dan Keffeler (or Chris at Scorpion Swords). Chris is probably your best bet for getting it done in that price range.

I've got a few 52100 blades I'm working on right now. It's good stuff!
 
Once it is made, using a spyderco sharp maker to keep it sharp wouldn't be too bad. It does look like it would be fun to use, however for the price you can get a 9(Or jungalas) and a sickle and it would be more practical... To me.


In other news, I hate working at the clinic in St. Louis!
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
For reference, just the steel in that thickness and width would run around 150 shipped from Aldo (3/16 is 30 bucks less). Add in handle materials, pin stock, acraglass, cost of HT, etc, and you're talking around 200 in materials, if it's done stock removal. Probably a little less in material cost for a forger, but more time spent, and arguably a higher cost. What would you want for guard material? You'd need someone who could forge for that as well, likely, unless you want something easily shapeable.

Personally, if I were going to take on such a project (and I don't think I have the skills to grind that inner curve), I'd probably have it heat treated in blank form, and then do all the grinding post HT, carefully, and at low speed, to avoid the likelihood of warping the blade and having to start from scratch. That would probably be the safest way to do it, although there's still risk, and it would be challenging. I'm waffling back and forth between thinking this would be a really fun project, and thinking it looks like a huge pain. It would certainly challenge the skills of whoever tried it out! There really don't seem to be that many makers who do swords on here. You might check with Stuart Branson, David Stifle, or Dan Keffeler (or Chris at Scorpion Swords). Chris is probably your best bet for getting it done in that price range.

I've got a few 52100 blades I'm working on right now. It's good stuff!
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Cant wait to see what you do with some 52100!! And i got a competition chopper coming from Dan Keffeler in december :D

The picture i posted of the one in 1095 was made by chris at scorpion swords! And I was just on aldo checking steel out myself too lmao

As far as the guard and handle material, I have no clue.. thats why I said besides handle material at first, im not even sure what to use, Id probably leave that up to the maker and just choose color/wood type
 
worldwood said:
Thanks for the reply on the subject :)

LMAO, no doubt it would be a challenge :D And yes both sides sharp at different angles though, I just have to make this difficult LMAO, outer for chopping wood, inner for slicing through brush like a kukri.

I might could go a little thinner, but its not intended to be the same a sword, Im wanting it designed as more of a outdoor knife than fighter, but with this design because I love it LMAO. What thickness would you recommend?

POB, Id like be on the neck towards the crescent blade, so blade heavy,
weight, I dont mind either way.
Hardness, I want this done professionally, but around 58 would be fine with me.

If this what made, and looked anywhere near as nice as I imagine, it would most likely be hung on the wall and not used, but id still want it made for hard use, even if I just display it.
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Your gonna want to redesign the handle some if you plan to use the back and front edges both. Look at that handle and tell me that holding it with the scythe edge facing down would be comfortable. Ouch.
 
iwouldhurtafly said:
If you are going for recreation, then its just finding a maker to forge it out for you... if you want a more functional piece I would just simplify the whole design... give it an update so to speak. Fewer curves/embellishments and would probably have to make the "belly" a bit wider so that it would actually cut worth a darn. Would also have to make sure the curve was supported on the initial neck of the blade if you are going to use it for chopping/hacking stuff. Might need to consider some well heat treated 5160 spring steel too. I know it will make a good tough blade, and its probably a little tougher than 52100 form a forge. It would just depend on the persons ability to heat treat... I could just be talking out my butt though... lol
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Yea the blade needs to be stretched out some on the design... The belly of the one already made up there looks a lot more practical.

And 5160 is tougher for the most part, i can agree to that, but the 5160 I have tried doesnt comes close in edge retention. Thats my biggest thing when it comes to steels. I dont care if its stainless, i take care of my knives, I dont plan on chopping a car in half or braking down concrete and putting that much stress bending the blade. Most the time i just plan on cutting LMAO and i want it to keep cutting everything i need cut as long as physically possible before i need to re-sharpen.


I have used ONLY a strop for the last year, with all my knives. I have used a friends sharpening stones to learn to sharpen on cheap knives, then returned the stones and i still ONLY use a loaded strop. Now I have to re-strop my 1095 after every use to keep it nice and sharp, not that i mind i love the steel and its easy as heck to sharpen, but 52100 i can use hard all weekend and still shave hair off with ease.

I got a blade now that im testing just how long it takes to lose its edge, the shave has just started to pull, but its still cutting hair and has been battoned through 27 pieces of firewood. Its getting a little rough now but i will continue to log its performance until it stops taking hairs at all. With a 1095 blade I tested it after going thru the first 5 pieces, the shave was already gone. this is a HUGE difference to me. I could not even go through 15 USPS medium sized boxes, taking them down to 2" pieces and still shave. It only took a second on a strop to get it to shave again though. But with the 52100 blade 15 boxes taken down to 2" pieces was a joke, the edge shaved like it did when i started.

I do my own test my own ways, these might not be good indicators to others but they a great indicators for me.


Im not knocking ANY steels, but if im going to pay to have something I really want made, im going to pay to have it made in the steel that works the "best" FOR ME PERSONALLY.
 
Silverthorn said:
Your gonna want to redesign the handle some if you plan to use the back and front edges both. Look at that handle and tell me that holding it with the scythe edge facing down would be comfortable. Ouch.
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Yes i noticed that after reading the guys comments, i didnt notice it before though. I really like the idea of both edges, even though its not traditional I think it would be sweet, so i might re-shape the handles...

Man this started as just an idea... messing with you guys it will become a reality for sure LOL
 
worldwood said:
I need to find someone who will make this out of 52100!!!! What a dream that would be for me!!

khopesh_1_-790x326.jpg
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There was a thread about these over in Himalayan Imports sub forum a month or two ago under a different name. Something to do with females commonly having them too.

Post over there, let the people who make them make them over any old common knife maker found elsewhere on the forum
 
Matt Parkinson at Dragonsbreathforge does swords. he's local to me, but a couple hundred miles from you.

-E
 
worldwood said:
Cant wait to see what you do with some 52100!! And i got a competition chopper coming from Dan Keffeler in december :D
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This one is 52100:



So's this dagger:


And I've got a couple camp knives I'll be selling that are 52100. Got one almost done, handled in bubinga.
 
Watched Dave Canterbury's video "tenkara bushcraft fishing" last night and just made my own.

Very neat and fun :)

Will post a thread on W&SS later
 
Thanks! Just got my P99 back from Talon Grips (sent it in for them to design a grip for it), and got grips for all of my Walthers. Talon Grips are so awesome...
 
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