paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

Awesome thread. My set arrived from Steve B today and I quickly modified my grinder and went to work. Will take some time to get completely used to the setup, but so far it is amazing. Not the last sharpening system I'll buy, but an good one to have around. Made two kitchen knives scary sharp.

One question I have is that my buffer wheel is really black even though I wipe the blade off after using the grit wheel. Is it normal and I just need to put more rouge on each time or is the color a non issue?
 
the buffing wheel getting black is normal and nothing to worry about. just apply some rouge every few knives or when the wheel looks like it needs it. just a pass across and back is usually all i do so the wheel is sort of white looking when running but not gobbed on. if you get too much on dont worry since it will come off as you use the wheel. just watch out for flying globs of rouge :eek:
 
Lol, so far the only thing that I figure I need to worry about is flying rouge. The setup is quite amazing and so simple too. Makes me really want to get a strop for on the go and a decent sized single grit hone.

I see you sharpen knives professionally. I assume you use something else for recurves. wonder if you could modify the wheel so that they were rounded off. I know they make the smaller ones for carving tools, though something larger would be good.

Thanks for the help/info btw!
 
Will check the other wheels out. I assume there is a rounded edge wheel for recurves, not sure how else you'd sharpen one.

Forgot to ask, what is Mike's site? Not sure who you were referencing.
 
Two questions, I put too make wax on the wheel. What is the best way to remove it and what angle on the paper wheel. Same as the other disc.

thanks
 
Hi Richardj

Do I need to clean/resurface the slotted buffing wheel? I have been using the wheels for a while now and have not attempted to clean that wheel. Any thoughts or suggestions would help me!

I skimmed through this thread and did not see a post that answered my question.

Thanks,

Doug
 
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you will need to smooth out the slotted wheel every now and then depending on how many knives you sharpen. where the slots are the wheel develops humps between them and you get a washboard feel to the wheel when buffing. to fix this i get a piece of 50 grit or coarser abrasive and a flat board. i hold the abrasive on the board and position the board slightly under the wheel. slowly move the abrasive into the wheel so it just starts to make contact and shift the board side to side ever so slightly to flatten the wheel and remove the humps. these humps dont really bother me and it wont change how well the wheel works but it can be annoying when it gets really bad. if you only do a few knives every now and then you wont have this problem but someone like me who does a lot of knives it doesnt take long for the wheel to get this way. i find that thick heavy knives tend to create the humps more than lightweight knives.
 
Does it matter what speed the grinder is running at? I think mine runs about 3500rpm .
 
What is the lifespan of the paper wheels?

I've heard of well over 15 years for the Razor Edge wheels. Mine are true and really hog off some steel and get a nice edge on knives with anything better than pot metal steel real quick.

Mike
 
i have a set going on 18 years old. i run my wheels on a 1725 rpm 1/2 hp motor with an arbor attached to the shaft. anything less will bog down. i really dont like running my wheels fast either. i have been sharpening with a 1725 rpm motor ever since i started.
 
if anyone contacts me by email please put down who you go by on the forum. it makes it a lot easier to know who you are. thanks.
 
Total newbie to sharpening - choosing between waterstones and paper.

Do knives get concave sections in them ALONG the edge, be it from excessive use in one region or un-even sharpening?

My concern is cutting through veges, meat, etc on a cutting board, and the concave sections not completely slicing through.

I'm thinking waterstones might be better for cutting on boards, paper better for cutting in air - is it an issue?
 
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