paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

MVF said:
Just out of curiousity, any idea why the wheels work better than belts?
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I'd like to know this as well.

MVF said:
It seems like the roundness of the wheel would give you a slightly hollow ground edge- is this true? If so, do you do anything about the shoulder this would give you?
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I have no experience with wheels or belts, but I would guess that it would give you a bit of a hollow ground edge. This shouldn't be a problem, though, should it? I mean, if you decide to go with straight bevels again, I don't think you would have to do anything special; if you do it enough, the bevels will eventually become straight again, no?
 
Well guys, I did it. I'm so excited. I'm getting some paper wheels in ~2 weeks when school is out, and the dealer in Oregon that sells them is going to show me how to run the thing. I can't wait--it'll be a great way to earn some extra money sharpening neighbors' kitchen knives. I have a huge neighborhood :D

Oh, did I say I can't wait? :p

:thumbup:
 
the edge you get from an 8" or even a 10" wheel doesnt have a noticeable curve. if you sharpen a wood chisel for instance then you will see the curve. a thin edge knife will look as if it were done on a flat stone. there are several brand name knives on the market that are sharpened with the wheels. its possible you might have even seen one and not known it.
 
richard j said:
anyone wishing to learn more about the wheels can contact me for more information. anyone in the us or canada can send me their number and i'll be glad to give you a call.
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Hi Richard can you send me your number I purchased a set of wheels from razor sharp and would like you assistance thank you.
 
welcome to the forum triniblade. send me your number. where are you located at? you might want to fill out your profile a little so members will know a little about you.
 
My paper wheels from Steve Bottorff came in this week, but the buffer I ordered from Harbor Freight didn't....

So, I went to Home Depot on Thursday and got the 6" ryobi grinder to play stand in until the buffer comes. =] after removing the shields, lights, etc, it was time to get down to business.

I start practicing with some $4 smith & wesson cuttin' horse folders. Some folks have said they wreak, but so far I think the ones I got are actually pretty decent if not an EXCELLENT value.

After abusing the cheap cutlery, I went on to other cheap cutlery... the Puck Cafe Express knife set that was dull out the box when they were originally given to us. They were worse after abuse of a few years and I wasn't into knives to fix them when they were new. I had done some work on them with a DMT 6" coarse and got them to an okay state, but there was still work.

I really, really *like* the wheels. Those puck blades are know doing extremely well. I'm sure Richard could put a better edge on, but after only a little practice, I was doing pretty well.

My spyderco endura got it, a crkt, a coldsteel bushman, etc. The only thing that has temporarily stumped me is a meyerco fixed blade military drop point. It's kind of long and I'm probably just being nervous about bumping into the buffer wheel when I'm using the grit wheel.

I appreciate all the hints and tips in this thread. The only thing that would make the set better is more pictures in the instructions or their website showing a loaded grit wheel, buffer wheel, etc... and maybe a video or two of getting started! That being said, the system is pretty easy to get along with. Steve B and Richard J were right... great results in a fraction of the time.

NOTE: I'm using the Steve B method... wheels rotating away from me, blade held up between 11 and 12 o'clock depending on the edge angle needed. Don't forget the eye wear and it'd be a good idea to have a mask on. Yesterday was in the garage and you leave some metal dust. Today I was outside.
 
richard j said:
welcome to the forum triniblade. send me your number. where are you located at? you might want to fill out your profile a little so members will know a little about you.
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Hi Richard its updated I'm in Trinidad the Caribbean, I ordered the wheels after reading your thread about them I have been playing with oil stones and a lansky system two months now I just got the wheels razor sharp sent out quickly.
 
when putting wax on the grit wheel dont worry about getting too much on. its better to have too much than not enough. it wont hurt anything. just watch out for bare spots showing the wheel which means you need to redo the grit wheel.
 
So where can i get one of these systems and including a grinder what else would i need to start making my blades freakishly sharp?
 
after blade you can contact dave or leave a post in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643625 he will be selling the wheels. find an old 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor and get an arbor to mount them on. thats all i have used for the 17+ years i have been sharpening with them. you really dont need a high speed buffer. there is no difference in using a high speed motor compared to a 1725 rpm 1/2 hp motor. less than 1/2 hp wont get it since the wheels will bog down and or stop a lower hp motor when buffing.
 
Just curious if anybody will be selling and demo-ing the wheels at the Atlanta Blade show next Saturday. I have 2 sets of wheels already...one for home and one at work. They are amazing!
 
richard j said:
after blade you can contact dave or leave a post in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=643625 he will be selling the wheels. find an old 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor and get an arbor to mount them on. thats all i have used for the 17+ years i have been sharpening with them. you really dont need a high speed buffer. there is no difference in using a high speed motor compared to a 1725 rpm 1/2 hp motor. less than 1/2 hp wont get it since the wheels will bog down and or stop a lower hp motor when buffing.
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When's Blade going to be over? i don't keep up with knife shows too much
 
Based on what I have read here and all the links I have followed my set will arrive today. I ordered from one of the dealer links on the website that I have an account with.

I love my stones and have been able to keep amazing edges on my leather working tools using a big honking translucent Arkansas, fine grit Japanese papers and leather stops with white jeweler’s rouge. But when I am asked to sharpen for friends and family I find that the meditative enjoyment of it vanishes.

I’m certain with all the information provided by richard j and the relevant questions posted here I will be up and running very quickly with this set up. I have a drawer full of older kitchen knives, my wife is notorious for throwing them in the sink, or a drawer, these will be first, then the knives I’ve always had trouble getting a good edge on, like some of the older ATS-34, one of which came as sharp as you would ever want but I have never been able to get it back to that level.

Thanks for all the information and your willingness to share it.

Mike
 
I just got the wheel system tonight from the dealer in Oregon and I am stoked! He was kind enough to show my dad and I how to use it, and boy, I tell you, my knives are stupid, stupid sharp.

Thank you so much Richard for pointing all of us to this system! Pretty soon, all of the knives in my neighborhood will be sharpened as well :D :thumbup:
 
i'm glad you like them knivesandguns. just be safe when using them. have you read my tips page? anyone who is worried about putting too much wax on the abrasive wheel shouldnt worry about it too much. it wont hurt anything but you'll learn when to put it on and how much. i take my index finger and rub the wax in evenly. any excess will come off on the blade and wont hurt anything.
 
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@ Richard J;

I've also just bought a set of Paper Wheels, the 8" ones in this case, but i haven't installed them yet.
I have a few questions for you;

- Is there any heat build up in the edge, or does the wax prevent this enough ?
- What would be the estimated lifespan of a set of Paper Wheels ?
 
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