paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

So let me get this straight. You do not need anything besides these two wheels for non-convex grinds?

1st grind on the sharpening wheel untill you get a bur, then switch sides and grind til u get a bur again. Next switch to the Buffing wheel and buff the bur off, then switch and buff the other side.

Is this the correct way to use the wheel?

Also, for machetes, do you need to use the buffing wheel, after all, they will just be chopping. Is too sharp an edge bad for chopping?

Also, how would I sharpen a scandinavian grind with the wheel system? For example a mora clipper.
 
the abrasive wheel only puts a v edge on a knife but the buffing wheel will remove the burr from any kind of edge you put on a knife. if i do a machete i sometimes buff the edge but you dont need to if you dont want to. the burr will come off when you chop with it.
 
you go from one side to the other until you get a burr. once you see a burr form on the up side then you switch over to the buffing wheel. some steels take more pressure to remove the burr than others. there are also different degrees of sharpness obtained with certain steels. you might have a knife that easily shaves hair but wont push cut paper no matter what edge you put on the knife.
 
I see, I think what confused me is that in the youtube video, you were sharpening a chisel-style (brainblank) blade, and I didn't notice it in the description on your site, so I though it was a normal blade.

Thanks for the super quick responses!
 
Out of curiosity, whats your way of sharpening a scandinavian grind?

What about convex saber ground found on the Fallkniven F1 which I plan to buy once I save up enough money.

Or are there better alternatives to these two grinds, and therefore, you never use them?
 
i sharpen a scandi grind on my belt sander and finish off on the buffing wheel and do the same for any convex edge.
 
Just to throw something out there. The key to starting out on the paper wheels is patience. Take your time and just keep at it. I got some good results on a bunch of knives, but not the full potential they held. Grab a random old knife that isn't all that important and keep at it.
 
keep in mind though that not all knives will sharpen up the same. one might shave hair and slice newspaper and the next wont slice newspaper but shave hair. i wont even bother with any stainless steel knives made in pakistan but i might sharpen one made from carbon steel if its worth messing with.
 
I've recently acquired these wheels and the results I've gotten are truly impressive. Thanks for the lead richard.
 
Got my paper wheels a few days ago.

Mucked around a Jap chef's knife and quickly got it to slicing through photocopy paper. Didn't shave hairs though, so practiced a bit more. Results improved a little, but the biggest change came when I turned the grinder around to how Richard has it - ie. rotating towards you. I originally started the other way as it appeared safer.

Now it's shaving and push-cutting vertically through a yellow pages page at about 1/8". With an onion, the difference is night and day between my first results and the current ones - now the knife nearly falls through the onion instead of force being needed.

Can't wait to see how sharp these knives can get with a bit of experience.

Thanks Richard for the recommendation and the effort you went to in trying to get some wheels to Australia. The mob I used were mind-blowingly quick and cheap.
 
I am just at the learning stage with wheels also. I gave it a try on a 240 carbon steel suji the other day. The results were very impressive. I also gave in and tried with the wheels rotating towards me. The results are much better. Just have to work on a more consistent bevel.
 
I should be getting mine in today and will be sharpening up the kitchen knives this weekend hopefully.
 
for touchups i use the buffing wheel if they arent too bad and just have the edge slightly dulled. for serrations that are really bad i have some special shaped wheels for my dremel that i use to repair serrations that might be nicked. i just cleaned up a benchmade folder for a member. i'll see if he will post some pictures of the serrations.
 
After hearing about the wheels in this thread I got a set and I am impressed.I still need some work on moving the blade across the wheels in one motion but I have been able to get a knife sharper than I have ever been able to get it on stones and the really great thing about it is it takes much less time. I think the most I spent on one single knife is a couple of minutes.:thumbup:
 
I emailed grizzly and asked about the arbor hole size. They said everything needed to use it for a 5/8 hole was in the kit. There is a red bushing in the hole. Are we supposed to remove, use a drill to open it more ir pushfit it. I did not find anything on the instructions on this. Thanks in advance. I am really looking forward to using this.


edited: It looks like it is a universal bushing that will fit both sizes, correct?
 
panch0 said:
I emailed grizzly and asked about the arbor hole size. They said everything needed to use it for a 5/8 hole was in the kit. There is a red bushing in the hole. Are we supposed to remove, use a drill to open it more ir pushfit it. I did not find anything on the instructions on this. Thanks in advance. I am really looking forward to using this.


edited: It looks like it is a universal bushing that will fit both sizes, correct?
Click to expand...

The hole in the wheel is 5/8, though I forget the red bushing size. I removed the red thing for mine and had to use some serious brute force to get the wheel on the grinder. Though once on, it isn't going any where.
 
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