paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

Thanks R A I will be trying to remove it later in the evening when it cools off. Its 101 degrees here.
 
Thanks R A I will be trying to remove it later in the evening when it cools off. Its 101 degrees here.

Yeah, there is no way I'd struggle to get a paper wheel on a bench grinder in 101 degree weather. It'll work though. Pushing as hard as you can and turning seems to be the best way. Applying equal force to both side of the wheel is important too, don't want to bend the wheel.
 
i found out if i rubbed some wax on the inside of the wheel hole it goes on and off much easier if you only use a single shaft motor or only have one wheel on at a time to keep from buffing or grinding your elbow. how many of you have done this so far? luckily i can count the number of times on one hand.
 
Hey guys, WD40 is your friend, no??
Here's my sharpener waiting to happen....has 1/2" arbors, that will work, yes??
Turns at 3450......I'll wear a helmet......

Found a kit at Woodcrafters for $42.....gonna get em my next time through.:thumbup:
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the paper wheels are actually safe if used properly. only user error will cause an accident. after 17+ years i never had an accident from the wheels. (other than cutting myself on a knife i made that i had razor sharp)
 
As long as the wheels aren't turning into the blade edge, there really isn't much to worry about. Only real thing to watch out for is flying rouge after you apply it.
 
I emailed grizzly and asked about the arbor hole size. They said everything needed to use it for a 5/8 hole was in the kit. There is a red bushing in the hole. Are we supposed to remove, use a drill to open it more ir pushfit it. I did not find anything on the instructions on this. Thanks in advance. I am really looking forward to using this.

edited: It looks like it is a universal bushing that will fit both sizes, correct?

The hole in the wheel is 5/8, though I forget the red bushing size. I removed the red thing for mine and had to use some serious brute force to get the wheel on the grinder. Though once on, it isn't going any where.


Just leave the red bushing in for 1/2" arbors, pull it out for 5/8".

I couldn't get the wheel on my 1/2" arbor without feeling I was going to snap the wheel, so ended up sanding out the inside of it a little. Didn't think of using some lube.
 
I knocked up a guide out of 16 gauge gal that attached to the side of my Ryobi 6".

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Don't bother if you're thinking of doing the same - I got just as good results with a bit of practice and it only got in the way.

That was a waste of time.
 
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I knocked up a guide out of 16 gauge gal that attached to the side of my Ryobi 6".

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Don't bother if you're thinking of doing the same - I got just as good results with a bit of practice and it only got in the way.

That was a waste of time.

Looks really cool at the least. I'd imagine there are times where it would be handy.
 
i have thought of similar fixtures many years ago but gave up on the idea for the same reason. just practice a lot.
 
Got a grinder today. I checked with a nearby AC place and they said they didn't have any spare motors, so I hit up Home Depot and got a nice Ryobi Grinder. 3450 RPMs unfortunately, but Ill just dunk my blades into water if need to.
4 more days and Ill have money to get the wheels. I think im gonna get a face shield. I tried practicing on the stock wheels on some piece of metal and sparks in my mouth is annoying. Doesn't hurt, but its annoying.
 
the stock wheels throw a lot more sparks that the wheels do. the compound coming off the buffing wheel is more bothersome to me than what few sparks come off the abrasive wheel. a face shield is a good idea to keep the compound off you.
 
I knocked up a guide out of 16 gauge gal that attached to the side of my Ryobi 6".

bracket.jpg


Don't bother if you're thinking of doing the same - I got just as good results with a bit of practice and it only got in the way.

That was a waste of time.

I have been thinking of doing something like that myself, but now I have a new idea. Picture using the wheels as Richard does....rotating toward you and holding the blade at the 1 o'clock position or thereabouts. What I am picturing is a laser pointer mounted a foot behind the wheel so that the beam is level and contacting the wheel at the 1 o'clock or 1:30 or whatever position. Before contacting the wheel with the knife, hold it just under the beam and raise and tilt until you see the beam as a streak across the knife. It will be dead level (depending on blade cross sectional geometry). Then contact the wheel at the laser spot. With practice it should be very consistent. You could make the laser pointer height adjustable to vary the desired grind angle. Whatta ya think?
Of course this idea could be modified to use with either rotation and any contact point.....just used Richard's setup as an example. And of course Richard doesn't need it but it might help some of us newbies.
 
the only thing that would worry me is getting hit in the eyes by the laser. i thought of almost every idea thats been brought up so far and even bunches more but the way i have been sharpening works the best. when you're sharpening one knife after another you dont have time to look at nothing but the knife and wheel. what counts is being able to draw the knife across as quickly and smoothly as possible. i pick a spot on the wheel and keep my eye there while watching the knife edge going across the wheel. another member did have a guage mounted along side the wheel which would be ok for someone new at sharpening. i dont remember the thread.
 
the only thing that would worry me is getting hit in the eyes by the laser.

I'm talking about a laser pointer like you would use as a pointer in a conference and while you aren't supposed to look directly into them, if you think about it you couldn't look directly into it unless you put your head on the back side of the wheel between the wheel and the laser.
 
i'm talking about a reflection off the blade getting in your eyes.

Certainly a point to consider as reflected laser can be an issue. However, I believe the kind of laser I'm referring to is a Class I laser which is classed as being not harmful to skin or eyes. I doubt that if there was an issue with them that they would be used in conferences etc but you would definitely need to verify that it was a Class I. Safety first for sure!
 
even that type of laser can be bright enough to cause problems. its best to be safe than sorry. i dont think i would want to be sharpening a knife and then get hit in the eyes by a laser.
 
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