paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

My wheels arrived from Grizzly today!

I'm only up to page 12 of this thread...back to reading...
i see that you live in northeastern ohio. i'm just west of columbus if you are up for a road trip. you can save yourself a lot of reading and learn from the best :D
 
i see that you live in northeastern ohio. i'm just west of columbus if you are up for a road trip. you can save yourself a lot of reading and learn from the best :D

I just might take you up on that generous offer, RIchard. We travel from Akron down to the Springfield/Dayton area often to see the grandson. I'm sure I can talk the wife into a little detour. :)
 
I just might take you up on that generous offer, RIchard. We travel from Akron down to the Springfield/Dayton area often to see the grandson. I'm sure I can talk the wife into a little detour. :)

Richard J is the Man, with the wheels. It would be well worth your time to stop in.
Good luck with the master.

Romo
 
Thank you to Richard J [RJ] for giving me the run down on paper wheels. After taking a bunch of tips from RJ and some attentive practice, my knives are now light sabers. I've ran factory 'sharpened' knives on the polishing wheel only and they are better than how they came aesthetically and even sharper. I don't have to sit there for the afternoon, it's done in minutes. Recently received a high line knife that was sharpened unevenly, meaning looks like they only worked on one side of the knife. Fired up the paper wheels and the edge is moving closer to being centered. Edge Pro will still be saved for it's mobility and used in a pinch, but if there is power - Paper Wheels is the way to go. Thanks RJ!
 
i started using Japanese water stones to sharpen my knives, i can get them to razor sharp and cut hair. i wonder if i keep practice on water stones. will using wheel more easier for me?
 
i used to sharpen knives by hand for years on sandpaper and glase along with a guided system. for the past 22 years i have used the paper wheels and i will never go back to hand sharpening unless the power goes out forever on the planet. my hands would not like it either.
in the time it took me to type this out, i could have sharpened a dull kitchen knife and made it shaving sharp. here is a vid of a knife i made cutting free hanging newspaper. it was finished on the slotted paper wheel. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7iDE2EBzBw

check out some of the posts on my sharpening service thread. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/861580-Professional-knife-sharpening
 
Honestly I was reaching for some buffing compound on the table... Then, well a chisel flew across the garage.
i thought of something that i hope will lessen the chances of this happening again. get a sardine can and mount it on front of the motor to place the compound in so it will be within easy reach.
 
i was just about out of compound so i ordered some more. i think this 3# bar should last me till next year this time :D 3pounder.jpg
 

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i ordered it where i bought my paper wheels. you should get the wheels and save your strop for out in the woods.

if you own a bunch of knives or sharpen your knives very often the wheels would be a timesaver.
 
i was just about out of compound so i ordered some more. i think this 3# bar should last me till next year this time :D View attachment 324720

Yeah, that'll last a while for sure! I still have approximately 60% of the original white rouge that came with the 8" wheel kit and I've done hundreds of knives on mine. :thumbup:

My dad wants to get a set of wheels for his grinder too, I was impressed! :) Especially when he prefaced it by asking if the wheels will help him keep his machetes sharp.... :thumbup::D I

I know some folks prefer a convex edge for machetes but the way he uses his edged tools leads me to think a V edge will work just fine. :cool:
 
if he dulls it fast then a v edge will be the quickest way for him to get back at it :D if there are no dings and only a rolled edge from hard wood he might get by with just buffing the edge back.

a buddy had a 4' machete that he had when he was in south america fighting drug runners and i sharpened it up which was fun to do. i did sections at a time until i had a burr the full length. buffing the edge is a lot easier but make sure to wear heavy duty leather or kevlar gloves when sharpening long blades in sections.

i redone a sword this past summer for a buddy and even with kevlar gloves on i almost cut myself. the blade went right through and luckily i seen what was happening and stopped what i was doing.
 
Ok I got a motor that turns about 1250 and ditched the 3600 grinder, and boy is there a difference in control!
I can limit how much I take off now, and I am trying with top toward me as RichardJ does.
It seems that I can hold the blade more level to the ground, because I can see over the blade while I get a burr.

Boy I love these wheels!
(Just need more practice....of course!)

Like I said on page 58 of this thread, (my first post in a lot of years,) I have been using a 4x52 belt grinder and a leather strop / steel for sharpening in the rubber buisness.

These wheels make VERY short work on getting a consistent burr to buff off.
Thank you RichardJ for sharing your knowledge!

Now the only question I have is,..... can I sharpen ceramic blades whith these wheels?
(I did a search and couldn't find any definate answers other than diamond wheel.)
 
i keep telling mike that the slower speed is a lot better along with sharpening on the top with the wheel rotating to me. maybe he will give it a try and see that i am right.

as for ceramic blades, i have played around with the ceramic knife i have and i could not tell any difference but the knife i have already has a decent working edge that pushcuts printer paper.
 
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