Philosophy of expensive large thick chopper?

Thats pretty neat, how long its been used and such. I don't suppose it would work for cleaning twigs off of downed branches like my bowie, but it would work very well for clearing brush. We have lots of areas with wood around an inch in diameter sprouting up, a Roncola would be my first choice if I have to deal with that.
Good post Herlock!

Connor
 
TheDandyLion said:
I really do agree with the philosophy of leaving as little trace as possible but there are still things that need doing like making a small fire, clearing a particularly rough patch of trail, or some camp craft. All of these things when done correctly and responsibly leave little to no trace and are easily handled with a large fixed blade. I prefer a good Leuku, or on colder trips where more fire will be built the ESEE Junglas. Both are very handy tools for wilderness trekking.
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I disagree.

Making a wood fire is never a necessity. If it was, people would not be able to ski across Antarctica or climb the high peaks. All that is needed is adequate skill and knowledge of clothing, tents and stoves. Wood fires are a choice and always optional.

The issue of wood fires resolves to what can be sustained locally, which varies dramatically and is impossible to generalize. Even in the verdant New England woods, you can easily see the damage that has been done by people harvesting just a few sticks over and over again near established camp sites.

I recall a trip several years ago in some easy to walk to ponds and passing 3 different parties doing the tarp and hammock thing and all camped right next to water and all tending smokey fires with the requisite piles of (mostly) dead fall wood in various states of being processed. No amount of hiding of those fire pits will really hide the damage. Those folks picked those sights because they made sense and our woods don't offer much choice and next weekend, that sight will likely get used again.

For our woods, an alcohol stoves almost always works, even in the winter. Really minimal impact both locally and globally.

If a fire is really desired, a twig stove dramatically limits harvesting and ash impact.
 
theAntihero said:
I'm pretty sure every traditional kukri is over 1/4 inch wide on the spine....
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Plenty I've seen were at least 1/4, some much thicker than that even FWIW.

Big choppers are awesome and can work very well with the right grind/edge geometry. The chopper at the bottom has a 1/2" thick A8 modified blade that is 14"; it cuts and splits logs with ease. The downside is that it weighs 55 ounces LOL...:rolleyes:

I can't imaging needing anything heavier duty than this beast. :foot: I may be wrong though.

20328589759_260d56aed5_h.jpg
 
They make great pizza cutters.



1/4" of D2.
 
ConBon said:
Thats pretty neat, how long its been used and such. I don't suppose it would work for cleaning twigs off of downed branches like my bowie, but it would work very well for clearing brush. We have lots of areas with wood around an inch in diameter sprouting up, a Roncola would be my first choice if I have to deal with that.
Good post Herlock!

Connor
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Actually, they work perfectly for that particular task. Just run the bill down the branch. While known as a roncola in Italy, you'll find them referred to as billhooks in the English speaking world, including the USA, and you can find some of the various Italian-made models here in recent years. Rinaldi, in particular, does a nice job of them, and they run theirs at 58 RC.
 
What folks like pinnah view as "destroying the heritage of others", I view entirely differently.

You see, I've established a secluded campsite advertised to no one, and used it for 5 and a half years now.
It gets used occasionally by other people who stumble across it, and the well-established fire pit keeps them from causing inadvertent damage.
I can tell they occasionally come by because, unlike me, some of them don't take their garbage away with them.
So I take it away when I come along; I bring garbage bags to pack out all trash, mine, and anyone else's who may have been along in-between.

It has been a spot of connecting with friends and family in a beautiful, peaceful setting.
If anyone who doesn't like it comes along, they can simply keep on walking...the rest of the forest is just fine.
Besides, the deer don't mind it, and they are part of nature.
We saw one there last time we went out, right at the site.

I care more about what the deer and squirrels think of my impact than the opinions of humans, who are noted for covering the world in sticky tar, concrete, driving gas-guzzling vehicles, and then whining about how someone's campfire is destroying the natural world. ;)
 
pinnah said:
I disagree.

Making a wood fire is never a necessity. If it was, people would not be able to ski across Antarctica or climb the high peaks. All that is needed is adequate skill and knowledge of clothing, tents and stoves. Wood fires are a choice and always optional.

The issue of wood fires resolves to what can be sustained locally, which varies dramatically and is impossible to generalize. Even in the verdant New England woods, you can easily see the damage that has been done by people harvesting just a few sticks over and over again near established camp sites.

I recall a trip several years ago in some easy to walk to ponds and passing 3 different parties doing the tarp and hammock thing and all camped right next to water and all tending smokey fires with the requisite piles of (mostly) dead fall wood in various states of being processed. No amount of hiding of those fire pits will really hide the damage. Those folks picked those sights because they made sense and our woods don't offer much choice and next weekend, that sight will likely get used again.

For our woods, an alcohol stoves almost always works, even in the winter. Really minimal impact both locally and globally.

If a fire is really desired, a twig stove dramatically limits harvesting and ash impact.
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Pinnah, I know this is one of your issues. But sometimes you go a bit far. I would be willing to bet if there was available wood across the Antarctica, they would make fires.

Let's see. A forest is composed of trees made of wood. Trees grow which is why they call it a renewable resource. Fire is a natural occurrence and used by state and federal people on public land. This leaves ashes, partially burnt logs/wood. It all degrades over time and I would bet good for the soil. Personally, I have no problem at all with fire rings if done well to control the fire from potentially spreading into the woods. What I have a problem with is garbage left by hikers and campers.

Fires make camping more fun. I absolutely can't see myself roasting a wienie over a twig stove.
 
Czechmate said:
I feel this thread has lost a bit of it's raison d'etre... ;):thumbup:


Big choppers are pretty sweet. :D:cool:

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Front & center, all dressed in horse-mat handle scales (aka stallmat). Blade thickness and mfr please?
I'm a thinking Waterstone Blades ... and just under 1/4" ?
 
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I try to pay attention to the local rules for fires.

Some areas I camp have fire rings, or stone fire pits, and no prohibition on burning.

One that I used last season, had very strict rules about cutting anything green/live/or standing dead material.

But they had a great abundance of dead piles, which we were encouraged to use.


And I do mean actively encouraged. The park official asked us to burn it, and kept reminding us, to please use all we could, as it would save work later.

But I was warned about triming a live branch the was actually in and over the fire. The park guy told me, he realized it was ctlrazy, but to just use the firepit, and let it scorch the branches hanging over the pit, let it scorch, and they would trim it back later.


That was cat camping, and any cutting would build up.


Many places I camp have the dead fall OK to burn rules, and established pits.

Where I canoe camp, there are Russian olive and a whole TON of weeds, stickers, tumble weeds, and other pokey bushes.

You need a shovel to clear a space of the weeds to even set your tent up.

As a scout leader, we do instruct the boys on leave no trace, including using existing trails, and avoiding switchbacks.
 
OK - so I'll show off my 10-1/2" long blade X 1/4" thick Seigle - not sure the weight but pushing 3lbs I think - certainly 2 lbs + and its little friend a Jeff Baker Viper 4-1/2" long blade X 3/16" thick.

 
SMOKING said:
I see very little practicality of the very thick knife like 5/16 inches thick with 8-12 inches blade lenght.
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Five pages and over 90 posts ...
Have I missed ANY that directly relate to to the OP (5/16" thick with 8-12 inches blade length)?

I understand there are have been a number of nice knives mentioned already in the .25" & less range, but where's the support of the "very thick like 5/16 inches thick" (that's 25% thicker than 1/4")?
I have followed this thread looking to see the .3125" thick & greater stuff that is in question here (not including ones that use bedliner type coatings) as I am interested in understanding the useful purpose.

Maybe even some knives from BladeSports International Competition, as there is no thickness specification limits in the rules:
#1 Maximum knife size specifications:
Blade Length – 10" (measured from the front of the handle to the blade tip)
Overall Length – 15" (measured from the back of the handle to the blade tip)
Blade Width – 2" (measured at the widest part of the blade)
Blade and Handle Thickness – No restrictions
 
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Spey said:
Five pages and over 90 posts ...
Have I missed ANY that directly relate to to the OP (5/16" thick with 8-12 inches blade length)?

I understand there are have been a number of nice knives mentioned already in the .25" & less range, but where's the support of the "very thick like 5/16 inches thick" (that's 25% thicker than 1/4")?
I have followed this thread looking to see the .3125" thick & greater stuff that is in question here (not including ones that use bedliner type coatings) as I am interested in understanding the useful purpose.

Maybe even some knives from BladeSports International Competition, as there is no thickness specification limits in the rules:
#1 Maximum knife size specifications:
Blade Length – 10" (measured from the front of the handle to the blade tip)
Overall Length – 15" (measured from the back of the handle to the blade tip)
Blade Width – 2" (measured at the widest part of the blade)
Blade and Handle Thickness – No restrictions
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1/4" or 5/16", the difference is 1/16": Pretty meaningless...

The OP was more generally attacking chopping knives over 8", which is exactly where they begin to be useful choppers (the issue of de-limbing in particular being especially relevant, compared to the inferior versatility a hatchet doing this, to which I would add trail-clearing)...

As several posters have pointed out, if he had called into question fixed blade knives in the 5-8" range, he would have raised a more valid point, as it is these lengths that are questionable as to their intended purpose. That would have been especially relevant since, even today, the majority of production fixed blades fall within the 5-8" range.

Gaston
 
Spey said:
I have followed this thread looking to see the .3125" thick & greater stuff that is in question here (not including ones that use bedliner type coatings) as I am interested in understanding the useful purpose.
Click to expand...

Well, if one were to look at knives made in Nepal, you could likely find some that fit that criteria.
They made their kukris thick very often...probably made other thick knives too.
They certainly do these days (look at HI offerings other than kukri style).

Seen enough forged Bowies these days that fit those criteria, and given the VAST variety of knives that have been labelled as Bowies, there should be historical versions in that length and thickness range.
 
If the weight of my 10-1/2" X 1/4" blade is any indication a 5/16" blade of the same size is bordering on unwieldy - impractically so. Of course there are some of you bigger mesomorphs that would consider such a weight - just perfect :D
 
stabman,

Nice pic's. Look cold laying on the ground under that shelter ;-)
Anything in those pic's 5/16" or thicker. Maybe that blue scaled leaf-spring looking chopper ...? I suspect it's in the 1/4" or less category (surprise me ...).

I guess my hangup is probably that I believe .25" to be the practical limit in the sub 12" long blade category for a knife.
I interpreted the OP to mean what I read, in that he was calling out the "very thick" and .25" is under that threshold in my mind, as I have been there, done that already.
Was hoping to learn something new here.
 
CharlieMike,

I do like your waved Tatanka.
That instagram pic you posted above looks like a mad karate choppa :-)
EDIT: dumb on me, I now see it's a video.
 
Spey said:
stabman,

Nice pic's. Look cold laying on the ground under that shelter ;-)
Anything in those pic's 5/16" or thicker. Maybe that blue scaled leaf-spring looking chopper ...? I suspect it's in the 1/4" or less category (surprise me ...).

I guess my hangup is probably that I believe .25" to be the practical limit in the sub 12" long blade category for a knife.
I interpreted the OP to mean what I read, in that he was calling out the "very thick" and .25" is under that threshold in my mind, as I have been there, done that already.
Was hoping to learn something new here.
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All mine are in the 1/4 inch range...well, some are at 0.260", but close enough.

The Cold Steel Trailmaster is 5/16" thick, with 9.5 inches of length...some people seem to like those.

Finding historical examples can be tricky, because in the past, most people didn't use digital cameras, and post threads about their knives...since digital cameras and the internet did not exist. :)

Even amongst the same pattern of knife, you could get lots of variation depending on which maker made it.
Many listed specs are about blade length, and sometimes you can find weight listed...guess people had more things to keep them occupied than we do now, where we spend time on the internet obsessing over blade thickness. :D


And yes, my friend did find it a bit cold on the ground...he moved closer to the fire, and then was fine. :thumbup:
It was a learning experience...I will always have things to learn.

Edit: The stock on the Clax is 0.290"
 
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