Prototype Cincy Machax

Tanker 1/66 said:
Peyronie's disease
🤣
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Now THAT is a word I wish I hadn't looked up 😬

Re: sharpening
Yeah, I think the key to sharpening is to use enough pressure. Perfect angle? *pfffftt*
I make joke, but removing material early doesn't have to be as exact. Then you dial it in at the end. Obviously speed and degree of attention must be appropriate to the tools and current state of the edge, but I think most folks get frustrated with sharpening because they are too shy with the abrasive. Practicing seeing the condition of the edge and feeling the burr are key bits of feedback to a process that otherwise can feel quite blind.
 
daizee said:
Now THAT is a word I wish I hadn't looked up 😬

Re: sharpening
Yeah, I think the key to sharpening is to use enough pressure. Perfect angle? *pfffftt*
I make joke, but removing material early doesn't have to be as exact. Then you dial it in at the end. Obviously speed and degree of attention must be appropriate to the tools and current state of the edge, but I think most folks get frustrated with sharpening because they are too shy with the abrasive. Practicing seeing the condition of the edge and feeling the burr are key bits of feedback to a process that otherwise can feel quite blind.
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I know when I’m in over my head. I’m a stubborn old Tanker but I’m not a stupid stubborn old Tanker. That my good Sir is why I requested Artillery from the Big Gun.
 
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Tanker 1/66 said:
Next step is to get it to Brotha daizee for sharpening, figure out how to etch our Beckerhead numbers into it, and I'm thinking some Tommy the Who walnut scales.
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Walnut would be the traditional choice as per original Machax - more dark brown than black

lasers for etching on the SPINE would be sick, plus maybe a thicc logo on the side? pic of Ethan?

i'm pondering ideas on cleaning up some blanks, and etching in this fashion, which might mean buying a small laser etcher/cutter

it would be super sick to super parkerize it, the really deep phosphate nitride process like the old ones - that stuff holds up

or perhaps one of the more modern titanium nitrides, that can come in colors like gold, to blue/purples...

www.konflictmotorsports.com

Ti Nitride Coating — Konflict Motorsports

Titanium Nitride is an extremely hard, inert, thin film coating that is applied primarily to precision metal parts. Titanium Nitride (TiN) is the most common PVD hard coating in use today.
www.konflictmotorsports.com www.konflictmotorsports.com

another choice might be the super hard chrome - not sure if that's even possible these days, but hey, there's a lot of modern mojo out there
 
Bladite said:
Walnut would be the traditional choice as per original Machax - more dark brown than black

lasers for etching on the SPINE would be sick, plus maybe a thicc logo on the side? pic of Ethan?

i'm pondering ideas on cleaning up some blanks, and etching in this fashion, which might mean buying a small laser etcher/cutter

it would be super sick to super parkerize it, the really deep phosphate nitride process like the old ones - that stuff holds up

or perhaps one of the more modern titanium nitrides, that can come in colors like gold, to blue/purples...

www.konflictmotorsports.com

Ti Nitride Coating — Konflict Motorsports

Titanium Nitride is an extremely hard, inert, thin film coating that is applied primarily to precision metal parts. Titanium Nitride (TiN) is the most common PVD hard coating in use today.
www.konflictmotorsports.com www.konflictmotorsports.com

another choice might be the super hard chrome - not sure if that's even possible these days, but hey, there's a lot of modern mojo out there
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I can’t believe how difficult it is to find a local laser etching company. This island I’m on is known for its heavy aerospace industry.
If I wanted a brass plaque for a trophy etched I found about a dozen. I guess everybody does get a trophy. I’m going to end up shipping this out for laser etching. I can’t justify the cost of a etching machine.
 
Laser etching is a PITA.
You just need a stencil. I etch on spines all the time using the normal electro-chemical stencil technique.
The trick is getting re-usable stencils made, which is expensive for a 1-off ($35-$50?), plus borrowing, making, or buying a machine (~$100). There are various techniques for doing single-use stencils. Typically printable stickers, or cut 'em out w/ an X-acto (or a birudashi! :D) and use that as a resist. Nail polish works well as a resist, and you can scrape away the positive areas. If you use a color, it's easy to see what you're doing. Then use standard electric machine. The tech is low, but it's nice when it's controlled. S and I gave up making something that worked consistently and I bought a Personalizer Plus kit.
 
Bladite said:
Walnut would be the traditional choice as per original Machax - more dark brown than black

lasers for etching on the SPINE would be sick, plus maybe a thicc logo on the side? pic of Ethan?

i'm pondering ideas on cleaning up some blanks, and etching in this fashion, which might mean buying a small laser etcher/cutter

it would be super sick to super parkerize it, the really deep phosphate nitride process like the old ones - that stuff holds up

or perhaps one of the more modern titanium nitrides, that can come in colors like gold, to blue/purples...

www.konflictmotorsports.com

Ti Nitride Coating — Konflict Motorsports

Titanium Nitride is an extremely hard, inert, thin film coating that is applied primarily to precision metal parts. Titanium Nitride (TiN) is the most common PVD hard coating in use today.
www.konflictmotorsports.com www.konflictmotorsports.com

another choice might be the super hard chrome - not sure if that's even possible these days, but hey, there's a lot of modern mojo out there
Click to expand...
I contacted TTW. He he didn’t have any Walnut scales ready. He did let me know that he would have some drying shortly. That was Saturday. As of today I have a set of Dark Brown Walnut #4s headed to my house. Thanks TTW
 
Tanker 1/66 said:
I contacted TTW. He he didn’t have any Walnut scales ready. He did let me know that he would have some drying shortly. That was Saturday. As of today I have a set of Dark Brown Walnut #4s headed to my house. Thanks TTW
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Awesome stuff! I got the Dark Brown Walnut #1s on the way to my house. I was deciding between #1 and #4. Can’t wait to put them on my stripped and de-ramped 7. Awesome to see the #4s going to you. Machax is coming along great! Can’t wait to see the final product.
 
coolbreezy37 said:
Awesome stuff! I got the Dark Brown Walnut #1s on the way to my house. I was deciding between #1 and #4. Can’t wait to put them on my stripped and de-ramped 7. Awesome to see the #4s going to you. Machax is coming along great! Can’t wait to see the final product.
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It was a toss up between the 1 and 4 . The 4s looked just a bit darker. The grain in both sets was fantastic. I’m glad you snatched up the 1s.
 
Brommeland said:
Wow! Very nice indeed! (Those scales look much more comfortable than the originals too).
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They actually are. They feel warm and the palm swell is just the slightest bit bigger. Ergonomics are spot on. They are just proud enough to sand them to a perfect fit. Or just leave them as be. I’m going to put them on a Bk4 and check the fit also.
 
Bladite said:
sorry, you're banned now :D Heresy, or something something?

Why do you think so?
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The new wood scales shown in the pic appear to be more rounded with a smoother profile than the originals......As I remember, the early wood scales were more flat - but please bear in mind that was close to 40 years ago (when I was young and good lookin') - my memory might be a bit flawed now that I'm old and gnarly......
 
Brommeland said:
The new wood scales shown in the pic appear to be more rounded with a smoother profile than the originals......As I remember, the early wood scales were more flat - but please bear in mind that was close to 40 years ago (when I was young and good lookin') - my memory might be a bit flawed now that I'm old and gnarly......
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oh, well, i can bust one out for photos, or just look for the ones i have. yeah, a little more square iirc.
 
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