Quillon Dagger WIP

Steve,

I've been looking forward to seeing your work on guard and handle. The detail of leaving reference material for marking, that is then removed in the process of further shaping, is a great example of your careful thinking, and is something valuable to see. Thanks.

BTW, that's a beautiful jeweler's saw. An antique?

John
 
Blending the scrolls into the relived area on the grinder; again looking directly down the face of the belt.

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Back to cleaning up the inside of the scrolls with a die-sinker's file.

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Cleaning up the saw marks from the scroll ends with a file.

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The inside of the scrolls are sanded using a scalloped edge belt that has been split.

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To get into the tight ends of the scrolls, I have cut a piece of 360 grit belt about 3/16 " wide. I will use my fingers behind this tiny strip of belt to guide it.

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Just an example of another method of transferring a pattern and/or checking symmetry on a part. This is a soot transfer; old school for engraver's to transfer an engraving pattern to the opposite side of something. The guard has been covered with soot, using a cigarette lighter.

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The soot is lifted from the part with tape and is affixed over the other side of the part. The pattern lines can be transferred by cutting through the tape with an Exacto knife.

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The ferrule parts are Super-Glued together and drilled for alignment pins.

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I originally planned to make the ferrule as one piece, but I changed my mind because of the complicated transition between the guard and ivory handle. I decided to make the ferrule a three piece unit. The three parts here, assembled with the alignment pins.

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Here's the three parts of the ferrule assembly. I had already shaped the top and bottom pieces and started grinding the center piece when I thought about taking this picture. The top and bottom parts were shaped first and then used to scribe the center piece with grind lines.

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Here's one of the things that I love about the KMG grinder. It is very adaptable to reconfiguring for difficult grinding situations. The center piece of this ferrule is a very complicated shape. To grind it, I removed the small wheel fork from the arm and placed the work rest below it. I then used different thicknesses of steel shims between the work rest arm and the small wheel fork to adjust where the wheel would contact the ferrule part. By making cuts on the ferrule at different heights, I was able to cut facets onto the part to roughly shape it.

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The rough ground ferrule part.

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To blend the facets into a smooth surface, I Super-Glued two plates to the top and bottom of the material. These plates will protect the top and bottom surfaces from the grinding belt.

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The ferrule is ground using a narrow strip of belt. Again, I will use my fingers to guide the belt around the part.

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The ferrule part after grinding.

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The knife assembled on my bench. This is how it will be at the AKA Show. Lots of work left to do.....

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Thank you for such detailed instructions cutting and shaping the guard. A lot of your methods could also be used on some of my woodworking projects. I am really enjoying this thread.
Thanks, Mark
 
Fantastic! So much detail in this WIP Steve... the next best thing to looking over your shoulder while you work!
 
Great tip on using the plates glued to the ends of the ferrule to protect them from the belts. Thank you for taking the time to take and post all of this on here!
 
Thanks to all for the comments!!! I'm glad so many are enjoying the thread and also learning some new tricks.

BTW, that's a beautiful jeweler's saw. An antique?

The jeweler's saw is new. I bought it from the NC Black Company at last year's AG Russell Show. The frame is titanium (if I remember correctly).
 
The knife assembled on my bench. This is how it will be at the AKA Show. Lots of work left to do.....

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It's coming out better than the drawing... =]

Thanks for doing this, Steve. I've learned about some stuff I've struggled with trying to get done.

Mike
 
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That set up looks really handy!

By the way, I was lucky enough to have a table very close to Steve and I quite enjoyed having the chance to talk with him as well as to check out the knife in person.
 
Man am I excited to see the rest of this thread play out... what an outstanding knife!!!!!! :thumbup: :cool: :) :D :thumbup:

I know how you feel Allen as I was set up right next to Steve at the ABS Expo in San Antonio! :thumbup: :cool: :)
 
Thanks, Allen and Nick!!

Work is going well on the dagger; but SLOW. I've spent the last three days finishing the shaping of the guard. I've done guards with a similar shape to this one before. I've always been able to do a lot of the shaping and finishing by slack-belting. I decided to curl the scrolled ends around farther on this guard than I had done on past guards. The result was that I couldn't even get a split belt into the curves of these scrolls. So, I've spent HOURS working with files, sandpaper, stones and tiny polishing buffs on this guard. I finally finished it up just before typing this message.

I'm going to do some more work to the ferrule and spacer assembly now, and should start the fluting on the ivory yet today. I'll post a few pictures of the work on the guard, when I get time.
 
The steel fittings for this dagger are shaped and ready for bluing. The fittings will remain "in the white" until the ivory handle work is finished. The fittings will be hot caustic blued just before final assembly of the knife.

As I mentioned in my earlier post. The shape of this guard made it impossible for me to do any shaping and finishing with power equipment; so all was done by hand. I only have a few photos to show of the hand finishing process, as there are only a few steps to it; which take hours and hours to complete.

The tools of the trade. Die-sinkers files, RA stones, abrasive tape, sticks with sandpaper attached with double sided Scotch tape, belt sanding sticks and polishing bobs. The cone shaped bob was ground to a small tip to reach into and polish the inside corners under the scroll ends.

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Shaping of the guard scrolls is started by sanding the ends of the scrolls. This was done first so that I would know where the finished level of the ends would be.

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I marked "cut to" lines on the scrolls by using the brass pattern that I had made earlier. The brass pattern was cut down to the curvature that I wanted along this line. Lay-out dye was applied to the guard and the brass pattern used to scribe the lines. A Foredom tool with a carbide burr is used to rough out the inside contours on the guard scrolls.

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Die-sinker's files are used to clean up the burr marks.

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Rough cleaning of the tight inside corners of the scrolls is done with abrasive tape.

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Once the rough shaping is completed, it is on to sanding sticks, stones and whatever you can use to access the tight areas of the part. After the part is sanded to a fine finish, it is buffed on the bench buffer. This will display all of the scratches that you still have not sanded out adequately; so back to the sanding sticks and stones. Repeat as needed..........

The knife assembled with the completed fittings.

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I've learned quite a few thing here from watching you work Steve... One, I definitely don't have enough tools ;), and two, I don't know if I have" the patience of Job" that you display.:D
 
Really enjoyed watching this piece come together here Steve and seeing/handling it in Arkansas last weekend.

Thanks for taking the considerable time/effort to include us in this enjoyable and educational WIP.
 
this knife is looking awesome!:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
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