Random Thought Thread

What’s the deal with some people opting for epoxied on scales? It seems like any perceived benefits from doing so would outweigh the cons such as wanting to change scale materials down the road or if they become damaged etc.

Sorry if this has been thoroughly discussed just a random thought and wanted some enlightenment on it.
 
Redclay said:
What’s the deal with some people opting for epoxied on scales? It seems like any perceived benefits from doing so would outweigh the cons such as wanting to change scale materials down the road or if they become damaged etc.

Sorry if this has been thoroughly discussed just a random thought and wanted some enlightenment on it.
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I like rolling up scotch tape so the sticky side is out and putting a couple of those under each scale.

it doesnt work for shit but I just like doing it
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
I like rolling up scotch tape so the sticky side is out and putting a couple of those under each scale.

it doesnt work for shit but I just like doing it
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I might just have to try that on my next scale swap hahaha

In my experience with the tight tolerances of the hardware and holes in the scales that CPK is able to achieve paired with proper torquing and thread-locking of the fasteners I just can’t seem to see where they would ever move or become a problem under even some pretty heavy abuse. So the idea of permanently bonding scales with epoxy is just something I’m not sure I fully understand.
 
Redclay said:
I might just have to try that on my next scale swap hahaha

In my experience with the tight tolerances of the hardware and holes in the scales that CPK is able to achieve paired with proper torquing and thread-locking of the fasteners I just can’t seem to see where they would ever move or become a problem under even some pretty heavy abuse. So the idea of permanently bonding scales with epoxy is just something I’m not sure I fully understand.
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Batoning the spine near the transition from handle to blade seems to be able to shift things around if you whack hard enough.

but you gotta whack pretty hard. I havent managed to work anything loose on a busse or cpk though so who knows
 
Redclay said:
What’s the deal with some people opting for epoxied on scales? It seems like any perceived benefits from doing so would outweigh the cons such as wanting to change scale materials down the road or if they become damaged etc.

Sorry if this has been thoroughly discussed just a random thought and wanted some enlightenment on it.
Click to expand...
Before CPK, it never even occurred to me to change the handle scales on a fixed blade.

In many cases, people opt for it for two reasons:
1) they have no desire/intention of changing the scales
2) as often as Nathan has said that light rusting under the scales will have pretty much no effect on the knife, it still bothers some, and sealing the scales mitigates that concern (some of us will remove the scales and use some kind of protectant, whether it’s Minwax, or in my case Mothers CMX ceramic auto coating).
 
bluemax_1 said:
Before CPK, it never even occurred to me to change the handle scales on a fixed blade.

In many cases, people opt for it for two reasons:
1) they have no desire/intention of changing the scales
2) as often as Nathan has said that light rusting under the scales will have pretty much no effect on the knife, it still bothers some, and sealing the scales mitigates that concern (some of us will remove the scales and use some kind of protectant, whether it’s Minwax, or in my case Mothers CMX ceramic auto coating).
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(I'm telling you SCOTCH TAPE)
 
bluemax_1 said:
Before CPK, it never even occurred to me to change the handle scales on a fixed blade.

In many cases, people opt for it for two reasons:
1) they have no desire/intention of changing the scales
2) as often as Nathan has said that light rusting under the scales will have pretty much no effect on the knife, it still bothers some, and sealing the scales mitigates that concern (some of us will remove the scales and use some kind of protectant, whether it’s Minwax, or in my case Mothers CMX ceramic auto coating).
Click to expand...
Ahh I see. I wondered if it might have had something to do with trying to seal out moisture. Thanks for the insight!
 
Blues said:
You can't cheat time. No matter the conditioning, and level of muscularity, once you reach a certain age, you gas out much more quickly than in earlier years. This is why I felt he needed to land early with a decisive blow or it was going to be a serious war of attrition.




On the bright side, my dog bit my wife's ear last night and I spent an hour or so trying to get it to stop bleeding from a couple of small lacerations.
(She wouldn't let me remove him from the home...in any capacity I was considering.)

It was probably a combination of things leading up to it, she leaned across him to check his rear to see if he had a "fishy" smell like when his anal glands are full. I wasn't in the room, but she said he growled, and she thought he was playing with her the way he does with me, but I have a feeling she may have leaned and put weight somewhere sensitive, guessing there, and he reacted the second time.

I was in another room and heard the scream and had a giant WTF? moment as I ran for the room. Ears, like scalps, bleed a lot. She had a nice knot on the noggin too.

It could have been real bad...but fortunately they are small cuts that just bled a lot. I'll remove the one bandage I applied to the two cuts on the inside part of the pinna tonight. Doesn't seem like it's weeping this morning. The other cut is behind the ear in the crease...and the bump all the way on the back of the head, but only an abrasion, (no cut), there.

Of all the things I never expected to happen last night, that was the furthest from my mind.
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Sorry to hear about the bite. Hopefully it heals well without further issues.

I'm glad to hear that you're level headed about such things. Some people really overreact and don't understand dog behavior.
 
carnifex knifeworks said:
Sorry to hear about the bite. Hopefully it heals well without further issues.

I'm glad to hear that you're level headed about such things. Some people really overreact and don't understand dog behavior.
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I figure if I could treat defendants with respect upon arresting them, I could extend the same to my dog. But he's on a "short leash".
 
bluemax_1 said:
Before CPK, it never even occurred to me to change the handle scales on a fixed blade.

In many cases, people opt for it for two reasons:
1) they have no desire/intention of changing the scales
2) as often as Nathan has said that light rusting under the scales will have pretty much no effect on the knife, it still bothers some, and sealing the scales mitigates that concern (some of us will remove the scales and use some kind of protectant, whether it’s Minwax, or in my case Mothers CMX ceramic auto coating).
Click to expand...

The mild surface rust under the scales bothers people for aesthetic reasons

I have never seen it ever become even remotely approaching even slightly functional structural. Never. Not even remotely.

It's purely aesthetic

You can only see it when you take the scales off

My answer to these people would be to use Red loctite so you can't take your scales off. Then it won't bother you. Problem solved
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Batoning the spine near the transition from handle to blade seems to be able to shift things around if you whack hard enough.

but you gotta whack pretty hard. I havent managed to work anything loose on a busse or cpk though so who knows
Click to expand...

The vast majority of knives are made using a low precision process such as water jet or laser. The holes have to be oversized for the pins to fit or they might be sized correctly because they get reamed, but then the hole location is not precise. Almost everybody has slop and they utilize this slop to position these scales on the tang before they tighten the screws. In this scenario, some epoxy would prevent shifting in rough use.

Some better makers will use a rivet of some kind and then grind the scale and tang flush, although this creates a problem if you have a tumbled finish.

Almost everybody has play in their handles and tang and epoxy would help.

Our holes are located using circular interpolation on a tight low hour Mori Seiki that repeats to 40 millionths of an inch, and then reamed to size using a stubby carbide reamer. They are the correct size and location. Their location does move due to heat treat but less than half a thou. I compensate for this on pieces with larger handles, but smaller knives it is moot. It is a fraction of a thousandths of an inch.

The tolerances on the handle scales are a little bigger, due to the nature of the material being cut but they're still very close tolerance. The holes are reamed in the micarta a couple thou over and there actually is a couple thou play when the knife is new due to this however those holes tighten up a little bit over time, due to the nature of the material. We have continued to improve our process over the years. There used to be a tolerance stack up between our holes and pins where some would be a loose fit and some would need to be hammered in. We have refined this, nobody is hammering in, they are snug slip fit, although they will need to be tapped out on an older knife as the scale holes close a little bit. Particularly with TeroTuf. Our fixed blades are made to a higher level of precision than most folders.

Our handle scale tang and pin tolerance stack ups are the tightest in the industry. There's not a lot of room for play and there's no amount of rough use that's going to make your scales shift a meaningful amount on one of my knives. And we are no longer epoxying scales on tangs for this reason.
 
bluemax_1 said:
2) as often as Nathan has said that light rusting under the scales will have pretty much no effect on the knife, it still bothers some, and sealing the scales mitigates that concern (some of us will remove the scales and use some kind of protectant, whether it’s Minwax, or in my case Mothers CMX ceramic auto coating).
Click to expand...

I‘ve used froglube. Then again, I forgot on which CPKs I did, so it can’t be that important :)
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
The vast majority of knives are made using a low precision process such as water jet or laser. The holes have to be oversized for the pins to fit or they might be sized correctly because they get reamed, but then the hole location is not precise. Almost everybody has slop and they utilize this slop to position these scales on the tang before they tighten the screws. In this scenario, some epoxy would prevent shifting in rough use.

Some better makers will use a rivet of some kind and then grind the scale and tang flush, although this creates a problem if you have a tumbled finish.

Almost everybody has play in their handles and tang and epoxy would help.

Our holes are located using circular interpolation on a tight low hour Mori Seiki that repeats to 40 millionths of an inch, and then reamed to size using a stubby carbide reamer. They are the correct size and location. Their location does move due to heat treat but less than half a thou. I compensate for this on pieces with larger handles, but smaller knives it is moot. It is a fraction of a thousandths of an inch.

The tolerances on the handle scales are a little bigger, due to the nature of the material being cut but they're still very close tolerance. The holes are reamed in the micarta a couple thou over and there actually is a couple thou play when the knife is new due to this however those holes tighten up a little bit over time, due to the nature of the material. We have continued to improve our process over the years. There used to be a tolerance stack up between our holes and pins where some would be a loose fit and some would need to be hammered in. We have refined this, nobody is hammering in, they are snug slip fit, although they will need to be tapped out on an older knife as the scale holes close a little bit. Particularly with TeroTuf. Our fixed blades are made to a higher level of precision than most folders.

Our handle scale tang and pin tolerance stack ups are the tightest in the industry. There's not a lot of room for play and there's no amount of rough use that's going to make your scales shift a meaningful amount on one of my knives. And we are no longer epoxying scales on tangs for this reason.
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Again, this is why CPK's are the best!!!!!😍😍😍
 
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