Rockstead Knowledge Thread

It could be, however, l'm quite experienced using this method. The second method l used, worked just perfect
 
What is the benefit of vg10 cladding on zdp blades?

The vg10 is more rustresistant than the ZDP.
And since the vg10 is hardened to a lower Rc than the 66~67 range of the zdp, it remains more flexible (less brittle) than zdp.
Added bonus..... Looks great
 
The vg10 is more rustresistant than the ZDP.
And since the vg10 is hardened to a lower Rc than the 66~67 range of the zdp, it remains more flexible (less brittle) than zdp.
Added bonus..... Looks great

I think Hitachi's cryogenic treatment on the ZDP189 strengthens against brittleness
 
The vg10 is more rustresistant than the ZDP.
And since the vg10 is hardened to a lower Rc than the 66~67 range of the zdp, it remains more flexible (less brittle) than zdp.
Added bonus..... Looks great

I saw that somewhere... how in the world do they accomplish that? The different steels are HT'd before being clad (combined)?
 
I guess its treated after manufacturing, and thw same heattreatment gives different results for different steels
 
What is the benefit of vg10 cladding on zdp blades?

Added "flexibility" to the brittle ZDP and added corrosion resistance.

The idea behind the vg10 being clad can be realized by a simple bar trick. See the video (the ZDP being the cigarette and the VG10 being the dollar.)

Edit: it should still be noted that even though the blade is clad with VG10, the edge is still raw ZDP and is brittle. The added flexibility is more important on a fixed blade (i.e. Mora).

[video=youtube_share;XiW91BGXDKI]http://youtu.be/XiW91BGXDKI[/video]
 
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I think Hitachi's cryogenic treatment on the ZDP189 strengthens against brittleness

It might, but ZDP-189 is still a brittle steel at 3% Carbon; especially when taken to 67hrc. It will never be as tough as YXR7 and will chip much more easily.
 
I've reached out to Rockstead for more info like lamination lines and origin of steel. I suggested Hatta Kogyo and they said no. Only offered that the company hat made this clad steel is of great skill. Obviously they are not willing to share any information.
 
I've reached out to Rockstead for more info like lamination lines and origin of steel. I suggested Hatta Kogyo and they said no. Only offered that the company hat made this clad steel is of great skill. Obviously they are not willing to share any information.

It's really no secret, there is even a Wikipedia article on laminated blades. Spyderco uses VG10/ZDP blades and even mora has some laminated blades too. They're actually quite common.
 
I've gotta admit that even though the idea of stingray leather is pretty awesome, it feels kinda like plastic:D

Edit: that's doesnt mean I don't like it though!
 
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At first I wasn't too keen on the looks of the Shin, but that has changed - I really love the looks of it, especially the blade.
 
At first I wasn't too keen on the looks of the Shin, but that has changed - I really love the looks of it, especially the blade.

I was the same way about the Chi, but as you said, my view changed. Now I can't keep the dang thing outta my pocket! I feel like it's the last knife I had to buy:eek:
 
So just to confirm Blues Bender, you do allow the entire polished surface to contact the 2000 grit (gently), correct? I've noticed that the very cutting edge on the DLC's appears to be "raw" YXR7 (sans DLC) so I was wondering if the blade should be slightly tipped up so only partial contact is made with the polished edge.
 
So just to confirm Blues Bender, you do allow the entire polished surface to contact the 2000 grit (gently), correct? I've noticed that the very cutting edge on the DLC's appears to be "raw" YXR7 (sans DLC) so I was wondering if the blade should be slightly tipped up so only partial contact is made with the polished edge.

Yes, the edge of the YXR7 blades are "raw". I put most of the bevel (polished surface) on the sandpaper when sharpening on a soft medium. It's almost impossible to place the entire bevel on the cushioned surface. The only time I tip the blade up is when using a ceramic stone, reason being, is the stone doesn't promote a convex shape like the foam backer behind the sandpaper does.

The ceramic stone allows me to realign the apex only, whereas the sandpaper allows me to keep the entire convex shape intact. If you didn't see the video I made about Rocky's geometry, try suffering through it if you can:D I explain the different ideas behind the sandpaper and a stone.

The whole idea of tipping the blade up to hit the apex (raw edge) is to be tangent to Rockstead's rounded zero-ground edge. This can be used for both Honzukuri and Shinogizukuri.

I hope this makes sense. If not, don't be afraid to ask any questions:)
 
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