Rockstead Knowledge Thread

victorf said:
New members joining up:

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That is my style of overcompensation !!! :cool: Very sweet collection and congrats on the new ones - intended and surprise extra.

Cheers, Ray
 
Hey Adam,
Yeah, it is what it is.

Since this is suppose to be "Rockstead Knowledge Thread", I just piggy back your thread, take advantage and pointed out - curiosity of explorations will certainly lead into trouble when not knowing better, in this case dealing with Rockstead knife, with respect to limitations from specified mfg's HRc rating, as well as many documented ZDP/YXR7 separate unique cutting demos.

Rantings in forum, ytube and such from "posser expert" can easily lead the unexpected, without having a solid factual knowledge background, into sad damaging results, have to rationalize and live with their damaged goods.

Adam, again, thanks for sharing and compliment on my new knives!

Victor
 
Has anyone found a reliable place to resharpen Rocksteads correctly or actually mailed a knife to Rockstead for sharpening and how much was the shipping both ways? I'm just curious on the process because it seems like a real pain if mailing to jp and I'd be scared of losing the knife in the mail.
I have really wanted a Higo but the complications of sharpening has held me back more than anything. I read the first 10 pages or so of the thread but I didn't see anything so my apologies if I missed something through the entire 66 pages. I just don't want to drop $900 on a knife and in a year or 2 realize I can't get it sharpened without sending it with a mail carrier across the globe and having an even 0.1% chance that it disappears.
 
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It's a knife and you can sharpen it yourself or give it to a commercial cutler, just like any other knife. However since the appeal of this knife is it's "special" factory edge you probably don't want to do that. That leaves you with shipping to Japan. That's an easy process and can be done quickly in the 21st century (i.e. 3 day shipping) with insurance, but not cheap. So don't buy one since you "don't want to drop $900 on a knife and in a year or 2 realize I can't get it sharpened without sending it with a mail carrier across the globe and having an even 0.1% chance that it disappears."
 

^Awesome, thanks for absolutely nothing.

Now if someone could actually answer either of my 2 questions (1. Does anyone know of a sharpener in the USA that can correctly resharpen a Rockstead? or 2. Has anyone mailed a knife directly to Rockstead and got it back without issue?)
that would be greatly appreciated. I just can't believe that in a nation of 320 million people there isn't someone who can correctly resharpen a Rockstead lol. I know it's a special grind and all I just can't believe no one here can do it.
 
I've spoke to members who sent theirs back for sharpening and from what I've heard the knives didn't come back as sharp as "out of the box". One of them was a YXR7 model with DLC coat, and the coating was still perfectly intact when it was returned.

If Rockstead is resharpening the knives back to a convex zero, then why was the coating still intact all the way to the apex?

Even their website used to show how to resharpen them with sandpaper on a solid backing. This would eliminate any convex shape at the apex unless you're a really skilled sharpened.

I suspect that they just work on the apex, and not the entire grind. I just use a spyderco ceramic stone to keep 'em sharp. Works fine.
 
Blues - I know I saw a post of yours in which you indicated some guy in the US, that you or someone you know, had used with great results. Obviously I can't remember which page - though I did do a BF search but no luck. You might have posted that 2 years ago :confused:. How's your recall? I will bookmark it this time.Thanks.

Ray
 
Even the factory edge is a bevel, not a full convex. The edge bevel is convex and extremely narrow. My laser protractor shows the edge curving from 0 degrees to 14 degrees per side. Although it's hard to read and convex edges don't have angles, the laser beam reflects off each point along the bevel, giving a reasonable approximation of an angle at that specific point. Rather an a point of light pointing to a specific angle that you get off a V edge, on the convex edge you get a line or arc of light that represent different, but continuous angles of the lasers reflection.

The factory edge is sharper than I've ever had from any factory or custom knife. You should be able to keep it sharp by using the factory's sharpening recommendations -- stropping on jean material loaded with metal polish. But stropping is tricky, and probably beyond the ability of most casual users for this kind of knife. But it can be learned. If you have only a tiny bevel to sharpen, it goes faster and easier.

If you're using the knife a lot, you could just put on an acute microbevel, which would be fast and easy to keep sharp. Whether you can ever get it back to full factory sharp is up to you. But you could also send it back to Japan every couple years for an edge regrind.

I'd also guess that some of the better sharpeners -- guys who can put a mirrored edge on any knife -- could do a good job for you.
 
Thanks @BluesBender, Twindog . That's kind of unfortunate to hear about it not coming back as sharp as the factory edge. That's part of the rockstead magic in a way although I'm sure it's still plenty sharp. I think I'm going to buy a Higo and maintain it the best I can and worry about it later and consider all my options down the road and of course bookmark this thread. Appreciate all the info.
 
RayseM said:
Blues - I know I saw a post of yours in which you indicated some guy in the US, that you or someone you know, had used with great results. Obviously I can't remember which page - though I did do a BF search but no luck. You might have posted that 2 years ago :confused:. How's your recall? I will bookmark it this time.Thanks.

Ray
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Unfortunately, I've only heard of a couple instances where the user was please when the knife was returned from Japan. The members I've spoken to (and I can't remember who) were not happy, nor dissatisfied; just neutral.

Maybe I'm just forgetting the post you're talking about. If so, I apologize. 2017 has been pretty rough.

I'm definately not knocking Rocky, I LOVE their knives, but I've always been a little suspicious about the convex-zero. T Twindog seems to feel the same way.
 
YIKES - I just got bit by my CHI :eek:
Tip up carry - I reached into my pocket and that very sharp tanto tip was open and looking to give me grief. No gratitude. :( Fortunately I was moving slowly and did not do more than a light bleed. :confused:

I discovered that I can now just give the CHI a sharp snap of the wrist and the blade deploys. Need to tighten the pivot for sure. HELP PLEASE - how does one do that? Looks like the scales need to be removed. Is that the case?

Any advice - most welcome. I'm afeared to carry it without getting this fixed.

Ray

- and on the subject of a US sharpening dude. I skimmed through all the pages of this thread and can't find the one I know I saw - oh well...
 
I'd like to know, too, but I think you have to remove the stingray sticky material over the pivot, which I wouldn't want to do.

The pivot uses a bushing, like the Sebenza, which shouldn't have to be adjusted unless it comes loose, which sounds like yours did.
 
Twindog said:
I'd like to know, too, but I think you have to remove the stingray sticky material over the pivot, which I wouldn't want to do.

The pivot uses a bushing, like the Sebenza, which shouldn't have to be adjusted unless it comes loose, which sounds like yours did.
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Thought that might be the case. Will that stingray ever really stay on again once it's removed? I do prefer to fix this myself but would like some guidance 1st.

Last time I sent a knife back to the maker to tighten up the pivot it came back SO F*°#§*• TIGHT that I needed 2 hands to open the blade on what once was a smooth IKBS flipper. I asked the maker if he had tried flipping it after his "tune up" all I got in reply was a DUH :confused: :mad:. And this from a well respected maker. I was stunned and a bit POd. Sent it back and told him to keep it. Don't want to go through that with the Rocky CHI.

Help will be appreciated.

Ray
 
Removing the stingray inlay wouldn't do anything. You'll need to remove the cover on the presentation side to uncover the pivot.

The blade is held in by what I'd describe as a "floating pivot". The knife can open and close completely fine without the cover on. The metal ring around the pivot unscrews to remove the blade. You will need to find a way to tighten that ring.

Yes, it's a PITA and I'd strongly suggest disassembling the knife very carefully and with and quality set of torx bits (Wiha).

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First, I'd flush the knife with some Naptha to make sure there isn't something that is in the way of the detent. Maybe try to scrub the pivot with an old toothbrush too. If the detent hole is filled with pocket lint, that could cause your problem. Then you won't need to take it apart.
 
Thanks for the view, Blues. Can you see the pivot bushing?

There should be a phosphor bronze washer right under the circular nut. There should also be a pivot bushing out of sight that prevents the circular washer from being so tight that it makes the blade difficult to open with one hand. Is that how you see it?
 
Thanks for the photo and the play by play BLUES. I dusted out the "clean" knife with some compressed air (no naptha available) but no difference. Now - "The blade is held in by what I'd describe as a "floating pivot". The knife can open and close completely fine without the cover on. The metal ring around the pivot unscrews to remove the blade. You will need to find a way to tighten that ring." I believe TWINDOG is calling the "metal ring" a "circular nut". That ring/nut can be turned to tighten? Nylon pliers might be the right tool - do you think?

We shall see.

Ray
 
I don't really know that it's a circular nut. But if it really does screw onto that post/bolt, it's a nut. But why not use a regular nut that can be easily tightened. It could also be a press fit.

The thing about tightening the pivot is that the bushing should keep the blade from being tightened too much. And if it's coming loose, it should almost be able to be tightened by hand or feel blade wobble.

If it is a nut, I'd want some kind of rubber or vinyl protection for the pliers or vice grip, and I'd want to use curved pliers.

But at this point, we need more information.
 
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