Rockstead Knowledge Thread

Thank you both. I will attempt a tightening now as I have enough info. There is no blade play what so ever. It has simply lost the tension on the pivot for opening and closing. More as it happens.

Ray
 
Blues Bender said:
Yes, it's a PITA and I'd strongly suggest disassembling the knife very carefully and with and quality set of torx bits (Wiha).
Click to expand...

OK - commenced to take apart the CHI today but my HUSKY brand # 6 torx bit apparently is NOT QUALITY. :(

I got one screw out - yes there was some locktite on the thread - but it was obvious that the remaining 2 were not coming out with my little bit. SO before I trash this knife altogether - WHAT IS A QUALITY SET OF TORX BITS? Please. I would like to know. This CHI is at best a sheath knife without some rework.

Thanks very much.

Ray
 
Sorry - :confused: I hadn't even noticed that WIHA was a recommended brand. I guess because I never heard of it I thought he was just ending with some critic acronym :rolleyes:.

OK - Thanks for the link I'll look into this.

As to removing screws with stripped out seats - that are that small - how do you begin. I can give all kinds of advice for big screws - torx, phillips or otherwise but how to do it with these little things without buggering up the knife??

Ray
 
RayseM said:
As to removing screws with stripped out seats - that are that small - how do you begin. I can give all kinds of advice for big screws - torx, phillips or otherwise but how to do it with these little things without buggering up the knife??
Ray
Click to expand...

You may have to drill out a hole for a screw removing bit, but it's tricky with screws this small. There are also ways to apply heat to loosen the Locktite.

Personally, with a knife this expensive, I'd send it to one of the knife mechanics on the forum. (Let them know about the link to the Rockstead-breakdown tutorial.)

If you don't want to do that, you could post your problem, with photos, in the maintenance/tinkering subforum. You'll get good advice there, and the advice will be most valuable if you get it before proceeding further. Good luck.
 
OK - WIHA set on the way. Thanks for the tip. Always fun to get new good tools. :cool:

Ray
 
OK - with brand new WIHA torx in hand I still can't take the scale of my CHI. This really sucks :(.
I might have damaged the screw slots with my first attempt. In any case I got 1 out of 3 removed and that 1st one was very tight and obviously set in locktite of some sort.

What do I do? Soak the knife in boiling water hoping to ease up the locktite? The screws might still come out if I am very careful and they are free of the locktite. I know how to work with tools. This is well within my capabilities though a bit on the micro side of what I typically work with.

My other choice seems to be to leave the scales on and go at this by removing the stingray and tightening the pivot screw. That doesn't solve the long term problem of my unremovable scales though - AND if I drill out the existing screws I then need replacements. Actually, I will need replacements in any case. I won't reuse these.

I'm guessing that if I send it back to Rockstead right now before I get in any deeper they will still give me grief for obviously having tried to remove the screws. No warranty work to tighten the blade?

I am really miffed about losing the use of the CHI. More aggravated that I am having problems with this expensive and mostly new knife.

Any advice on how to proceed? Thank you very much.

Ray
 
RayseM said:
OK - with brand new WIHA torx in hand I still can't take the scale of my CHI. This really sucks :(.
I might have damaged the screw slots with my first attempt. In any case I got 1 out of 3 removed and that 1st one was very tight and obviously set in locktite of some sort.

What do I do? Soak the knife in boiling water hoping to ease up the locktite? The screws might still come out if I am very careful and they are free of the locktite. I know how to work with tools. This is well within my capabilities though a bit on the micro side of what I typically work with.

My other choice seems to be to leave the scales on and go at this by removing the stingray and tightening the pivot screw. That doesn't solve the long term problem of my unremovable scales though - AND if I drill out the existing screws I then need replacements. Actually, I will need replacements in any case. I won't reuse these.

I'm guessing that if I send it back to Rockstead right now before I get in any deeper they will still give me grief for obviously having tried to remove the screws. No warranty work to tighten the blade?

I am really miffed about losing the use of the CHI. More aggravated that I am having problems with this expensive and mostly new knife.

Any advice on how to proceed? Thank you very much.

Ray
Click to expand...


First, I'd post this in the Maintenance and Tinkering subsection where the mechanics hang out.

The problem with removing the stingray inset is that you won't have access to both sides of the bolt and nut. If you try to tighten the bolt under the inset, you may just spin the bolt, especially if it is already loose. Also, I think it would be safer to push the inset out from the inside, rather than trying to pry it out from the outside with something sharp.

You should be able to get new screws from Rockstead. Or you could just buy some, once you know the size, thread and pitch.

If you get some advice you feel comfortable with here, go for it. Otherwise, contact one of the mechanics on this forum for help or send it back to Rockstead.
 
Reading the warranty I'm on my own as I have tried to disassemble the CHI. :mad: Anyway S&H two ways to Japan and back is over $ 60.00 or so plus I will need to pay for the repair. Pretty discouraging. I will take your advice Twindog and seek help in the T&M forum. I've had less trouble with Spydercos. :(

A blue Ray
 
RayseM said:
Reading the warranty I'm on my own as I have tried to disassemble the CHI. :mad: Anyway S&H two ways to Japan and back is over $ 60.00 or so plus I will need to pay for the repair. Pretty discouraging. I will take your advice Twindog and seek help in the T&M forum. I've had less trouble with Spydercos. :(

A blue Ray
Click to expand...

Did you ever come to a conclusion on this? I will mention that removing the stingray inlay will not allow access to the pivot. Under the stingray is just more aluminum that the inlays are adhered to.
 
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On the Kou, at least, the pivot bolt is just under the stingray. As you mentioned, it may be possible to tighten the round nut on the other side, but you'd have to use Lok-Tite and hope the bolt doesn't spin.

Here's a photo of the pivot bolt just under the stingray inset.

image-proxy
 
Twindog said:
On the Kou, at least, the pivot bolt is just under the stingray. As you mentioned, it may be possible to tighten the round nut on the other side, but you'd have to use Lok-Tite and hope the bolt doesn't spin.

Here's a photo of the pivot bolt just under the stingray inset.

image-proxy
Click to expand...

You are right, I'm not sure why I was thinking that:confused:
It's been a long time since I've taken my Rockys apart!
 
Blues Bender said:
Did you ever come to a conclusion on this? I will mention that removing the stingray inlay will not allow access to the pivot. Under the stingray is just more aluminum that the inlays are adhered to.
Click to expand...

I have been right out straight with work and a home project (and summer sailing :) :cool:) so other than reading the advice I have done nothing. I have the tools now I just need bit of time. I know from experience there is no such thing as a "20 minute project". Once I get into this I want to give my best attention. I'll report when I make some progress (or not).

Thanks for asking.

Ray
 
UNCLE :( - I have failed all my attempts to remove the screws from the scales. Easily peeled off the stingray covering the pivot screw, figuring that at least I can give that a turn but that screw was in very solidly - would not turn in either direction. Don't desire to ruin that one too so I gave up.

I really hate the idea of sending this back to Japan. Never expected that such a new and cared for Rockstead would ever really need warranty work. Fooled me. Don't see that I have a choice though as the CHI is no longer safe to carry clipped to my pocket.
Damn 'n blast :poop: :poop: :poop:

Thanks to those of you who tried to help.
Ray
 
I have lurked here for awhile and have read all the posts in this thread, and anything else I have been able to find about Rockstead. I have decided to go ahead with a Higo-X IW DLC. I do have a question for anyone who owns or has owned a Ryo-H, what do you like or dislike about it? There seems to be almost nothing on the WEB about it, but the general trend is dislike, and sales seem to be slow. I think it's beautiful, unique, and I would love to own one.
 
I own a higo for some years
and I might get another Rockstead

Does anyone know if the “inside system” of the shin is the same as in the tei
I found pictures of a deassambled
tei
but no inside look of the shin
Thanks for your help
TB
 
RayseM said:
YIKES - I just got bit by my CHI :eek:
Tip up carry - I reached into my pocket and that very sharp tanto tip was open and looking to give me grief. No gratitude. :( Fortunately I was moving slowly and did not do more than a light bleed. :confused:

I discovered that I can now just give the CHI a sharp snap of the wrist and the blade deploys. Need to tighten the pivot for sure. HELP PLEASE - how does one do that? Looks like the scales need to be removed. Is that the case?

Any advice - most welcome. I'm afeared to carry it without getting this fixed.

Ray

- and on the subject of a US sharpening dude. I skimmed through all the pages of this thread and can't find the one I know I saw - oh well...
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I would recommend sending the knife back to the factory for a warranty repair and adjustment. The detent-tension which holds the blade of my SHU closed is very distinct with an actual snap when first opening about a half inch or so. It's a very deliberate sequence with absolutely no possibility of an accidental pocket opening. Did the CHI have this feature from the factory?
 
bladeninja said:
There's a response from Rockstead directly dealing with the choice between ZDP189 and YXR7. Taken from British Blades.....This post should help drive your decision even more....

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?164590-Rockstead-Advice-Needed

Re: Rockstead Advice Needed
Hi,

Thanks for the input, Im thinking YXR7 is probably the way to go ( HIGO XID ), it appears the bamboo beating that Rockstead are so fond of is usually done with this material so as long as I can keep a check on any possible corrosion this should be a better match for my needs,

Does anyone know if the Rockstead DLC coating is covered by there warranty and if it can be reapplied should it be worn beyond the scope of the cutting edge?

( Better keep it away from the ocean )

This was Rocksteads recommendation when I explained my needs ( pretty much what they say on there site )


Thank you for your reply.

I think that the YXR7 with DLC is better.

We use two kinds of steel materials for our knife-blade. The steel material is ZDP189 and YXR7. I explain the feature.
ZDP189 : This is a cutting steel that is called a powder stainless steel.
Hardness is about HRc67. After cutting Manila rope 1,000 times with this knife, you can slice paper.
However, it is not suitable to beat and cut a hard tree with this knife.
YXR7 : This steel material is a kind of high speed tool steels.
Hardness is about HRc65. You can shave your beard afterwards even if you cut and beat the dried bamboo by this knife.
It is easy to rust though this is a steel material excellent for the knife is a fault. To make up for the fault, we coat the DLC.
If you wipe the knife without fail after use, YXR7 is perfect.
Our YXR7 blade has the most slashing power, penetration power, and durability.

Please consideration about that.

Sincerely yours,
∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽∽
Rocksted Corporation
Noriyuki Ishida　 　
1-26, Kannabe-cho, Sakaiku Sakai
590-0984 Osaka Japan
nori@rockstead.jp
www.rockstead.jp
Click to expand...

Both of the blade steel choices are outstanding. YXR7 will need a bit of care to keep it from corroding in the field. My high-end Japanese Yanagi and Deba chefs knives are forged from Super Blue high carbon steel. It requires rinse and a wipe down with a coat of cooking oil to preserve the surface between use. They are superior performers. If you take a high carbon steel to the field you can take the same precautions. It was not so long ago all quality field knives were high carbon steel. I prefer the ZDP-189 because it's said to be equivalent to ATS-134, yet slightly more corrosion resistant than YXR7. It still requires more attentiveness than my CPM S30V blades. One more anti-corrosion attribute with Rockstead blades, in general, is the mirror finish. Anyway, both blade steel's offered by Rockstead is the best on the market considering that knife aficionado understands how to maintain their knives.
 
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