- Joined
- Aug 1, 1999
- Messages
- 3,036
Possum, to have had such unfortunate experiences with steels you might be screwing up the edge when you sharpen your knives, though you didn't say what you were chopping with your folder (curious task for a folder btw). Saying you broke an ATS-34 chopper is pretty meaningless, taken by itself. That you "used it on a big chopper" suggests it was a knife you made yourself. Is that correct?
ANY steel can be screwed up if not used properly. You really don't have to work hard to intentionally ruin a knife, and it's even easier if the knife is poorly made - regardless of the steel used.
As for steel company data sheets, from the Crucible data sheet on S30V.
Although the longitudinal toughness for all three of these grades
is about 25-28 ft. lbs., the transverse toughness of CPM S30V is
four times greater than that of 440C or 154CM. These higher
transverse toughness results indicate that CPM S30V is much
more resistant to chipping and breaking in applications which
may encounter side loading. In knifemaking, its higher transverse
toughness makes CPM S30V especially good for bigger blades.
Longitudinal toughness of A2 is ~40 ft. lbs. but the transverse toughness is ~8-10 ft. lbs. Transverse toughness of S30V is 10 ft/ lbs. whle 154CM and 440C are ~2.5 ft. lbs.
As far as I'm concerned though, those numbers are meaningless. The only thing that matters to me is how the steel performs in a knife blade. In my experience and the experience of many other knifemakers who hate this steel just as much as I do, it rocks.
And btw, I consider chopping 8d nails to be near the acceptable limit of what you should do with a knife. Beyond that you're in a domain where the resulting damage will likely exceed what you can easily sharpen out.
Stainz, in my experience a strop is a more reliable means of polishing an edge. Polishing with a buff will usually remove the edge itself while it's being polished unless you have a lot of experience and the edge is nearly polished before you start. A little 1 x 30" belt sander with a leather belt is possibly a knife sharpener's most precious tool.
ANY steel can be screwed up if not used properly. You really don't have to work hard to intentionally ruin a knife, and it's even easier if the knife is poorly made - regardless of the steel used.
As for steel company data sheets, from the Crucible data sheet on S30V.
Although the longitudinal toughness for all three of these grades
is about 25-28 ft. lbs., the transverse toughness of CPM S30V is
four times greater than that of 440C or 154CM. These higher
transverse toughness results indicate that CPM S30V is much
more resistant to chipping and breaking in applications which
may encounter side loading. In knifemaking, its higher transverse
toughness makes CPM S30V especially good for bigger blades.
Longitudinal toughness of A2 is ~40 ft. lbs. but the transverse toughness is ~8-10 ft. lbs. Transverse toughness of S30V is 10 ft/ lbs. whle 154CM and 440C are ~2.5 ft. lbs.
As far as I'm concerned though, those numbers are meaningless. The only thing that matters to me is how the steel performs in a knife blade. In my experience and the experience of many other knifemakers who hate this steel just as much as I do, it rocks.
And btw, I consider chopping 8d nails to be near the acceptable limit of what you should do with a knife. Beyond that you're in a domain where the resulting damage will likely exceed what you can easily sharpen out.
Stainz, in my experience a strop is a more reliable means of polishing an edge. Polishing with a buff will usually remove the edge itself while it's being polished unless you have a lot of experience and the edge is nearly polished before you start. A little 1 x 30" belt sander with a leather belt is possibly a knife sharpener's most precious tool.