Sad day for me a ZT lover...

Whatever the case,

At least they LOOK tough, strong, overbuilt and that can never be questioned.

Doesn't matter which model ZT... if An OP comes in saying that it wasn't up to task... people here will say that knives are only for cutting and slicing and not abuse... What's the point of making them.. tough, overbuilt, super strong... This ain't my first rodeo, all these models including the older ones from the 0200 on up they suddenly become potato slicers when someone comes in here complaining.
For me. This ^. I like my folders thin and slicey. As much as I love beast folders. I know if I jam then into a piece of dried wood something bad might happen vs say my mora. Sometimes I get a big knife for fun or for collecting, curiosity, the steel whatever but I'm not going to presume it can do what a fixed blade can do. Enough forum members have already showed me the path on this thinking.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
In fact, if it's used as a cutting tool as intended, an Opinel is just as "hard use" and will perform better.

It is the knives fault, but mostly the users fault. He tried to pry/baton with a hard/brittle stainless steel, and it broke. If you're using a screwdriver as a hammer, it's the screwdrivers fault that it doesn't work well for such a job, but the user is more at blame for not knowing how to choose his tool properly.

I just want to point out that I was not the first person to drag Opinel into this.

That said, the Opinel N10 Carbone can handle light batonning (with the lock ring disengaged) just fine. Reshaping the blade shape to a spear point makes it even better.

They don't loosen up with hard cutting forces or hard letters forces and the joint/lock won't seize when fouled with sand.

Just sayin'.

But of course, it is just a light "picnic knife".

And you can buy a dozen of them for the price of a ZT.
 
batoning with a folder is your problem. And if you bought the knife because it was "hard use military knife" but you are batoning with it doesn't even make sense. I was in the military never had to baton wood with a folder, or any knife for that matter.

Like saying sad day for screwdrivers because it sucked at being a hammer.
 
With that said I can attest they make for a FINE picnic knife. I've been known to kill a salami, slice apples, cut the wrapper off of a jar of fig preserve, to go with a nice sheep milk shepherds cheese, one handed even with an Opinel 8. Murdering it with that knife!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Part of the issue is that "hard use" has no agreed upon definition.
Everyone has their own idea of what it means, and many of those ideas are vastly different.

If someone wants a knife suggestion, they need to spell out exactly what they are looking for. :)
If someone wanted a folder that the tip couldn't be broken off of with even stupid levels of prying, the Buck/TOPS CSAR-T or Spyderco Tuff would do very well (especially the Tuff).
If they want a folder that can baton with the lock engaged, the Cold Steel Rajah 2 will take tons of batonning abuse to the lock...but the tip won't pry all that well.

If they want a knife that can cut abrasive materials all day long without sharpening, something in S110V steel would be a great choice.
Or the Spyderco K2 in 10V steel...but once again, don't pry with it!
 
I just want to point out that I was not the first person to drag Opinel into this.

That said, the Opinel N10 Carbone can handle light batonning (with the lock ring disengaged) just fine. Reshaping the blade shape to a spear point makes it even better.

They don't loosen up with hard cutting forces or hard letters forces and the joint/lock won't seize when fouled with sand.

Just sayin'.

But of course, it is just a light "picnic knife".

And you can buy a dozen of them for the price of a ZT.

A 4inch bladed Opinel is not going to be able to baton a 4 inch diameter log. PERIOD.
 
batoning with a folder is your problem. And if you bought the knife because it was "hard use military knife" but you are batoning with it doesn't even make sense. I was in the military never had to baton wood with a folder, or any knife for that matter.

Like saying sad day for screwdrivers because it sucked at being a hammer.

^^^ This.
 
Interesting posts, and I was very proud of my Griptilian. I know I should of done many things better, and in a real situation I wouldn't of locked the knife etc. So, get off that horse for a second haha. My point was I hoped for the price it would preform similar in that situation to the Griptilian. That was my only point really, never claimed it was smart.

No worries.

You did compare a thin, sharp standard grind with a tanto that is designed to have a stronger tip, perhaps had we compared the ZT0630 with the tanto tip with the BM, it might have been a different outcome.

I love the Griptilians , and the axis lock, but I like the ZT's better.

I don't have a 620, but I do have a 630. I would be cautious with any prying with any knife with a thinly ground tip.

In this case it was abuse/misuse, not a warranty claim in my opinion. It does not appear to be a factory defect that caused that blade tip to break off.

You can get your blade replaced by following the instructions at the ZT Warranty page - you will need to pay $30 to replace the blade.

https://zt.kaiusaltd.com/faq


Good luck as you endeavour to get your knife repaired.

best

mqqn
 
"Built like a tank"
"A real beast"
"Proudly overbuilt"
"Hard-Use Premium and Professional Knives"


If that's not marketing talk, then I don't know what is...

ZT_Warranty said:
Any use other than cutting is considered misuse and abuse—and will void your warranty. Zero Tolerance Knives/Kai USA Ltd.

If that's not clear then I don't know what is.....

best

mqqn
 
The thread was silly from the beginning. I'm always baffled by people who straight up abuse their knives and are then shocked when it breaks. I mean, prying... why? Get a pry bar. They're readily available and some small enough to carry on your keys. Batoning... why? Unless you're in dire straits, there's really no reason to baton with a folder (at least use a fixed if you HAVE to baton). Use the right tool for the job. Get a hatchet or ax. Don't go beating on a folder, regardless of the manufacturer, and not think there won't be detriment done to the knife.

^ "Use the right tool for the job." What I find humorous, is that some people have the audacity to complain about a company like Medford knives, because of their explicitly strict warranties. When you hear some of Greg's actual stories, regarding the completely stupid, utterly ridiculous, asinine things people do with his knives, & then expect his company to either fix or replace the knives they destroyed... You'd be pissed too!

And some others would...remember this thread?

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1286779-You-can-t-do-THAT-with-a-ZT

Some folks turned into downright dicks in it. :D

^ Fortunately, I don't remember, Stab. I just finished reading just the first 2 pages, & I saw 16 more waiting in front of me. Were the remaining pages filled with the same type of trolling stupidity? I think that I already know the answer, since the thread was closed. :rolleyes:



batoning with a folder is your problem. And if you bought the knife because it was "hard use military knife" but you are batoning with it doesn't even make sense. I was in the military never had to baton wood with a folder, or any knife for that matter.

^ Agreed, L2G! I was a builder in the Seabees, & work as a building contractor. I rarely ever have a reason to use a knife on a jobsite (I wish I did). I have a utility knife, which does an amazing job at cutting light items, & literally hundred's of power & hand tools to perform my other carpentry related tasks.

I mean really; what kind of idiot takes a knife, & punches it through a light gauge steel stud? What did that achieve?:rolleyes: I just don't understand how some people's brains are wired! People that feel the need to post pictures like that, they deserve the constructive criticism that follows. YOU CAN'T FIX ______!
 
I mean really; what kind of idiot takes a knife, & punches it through a light gauge steel stud? What did that achieve?:rolleyes: I just don't understand how some people's brains are wired! People that feel the need to post pictures like that, they deserve the constructive criticism that follows. YOU CAN'T FIX ______!

I do.

And before you pass judgment and start calling names, perhaps understand the situation that picture was taken under. The knife is a Spyderco Mule Team in 4V steel. Spyderco designed the Mule Team line for us to test out different steels, and that's exactly what I was doing.

I was doing a demo job, and while taking a break I decided to see if this steel was as ductile as some say it is. Simple test, stab steel and observe the tip. It performed flawlessly, and the tip looked exactly the same after about 10-15 stabs.

Is this a legitimate test? No. Do I stabs studs for a living? No. Did my informal test put a smile on my face? Yes. Sorry if that bothers you:):thumbup:
 
No worries.

You did compare a thin, sharp standard grind with a tanto that is designed to have a stronger tip, perhaps had we compared the ZT0630 with the tanto tip with the BM, it might have been a different outcome.

I love the Griptilians , and the axis lock, but I like the ZT's better.

I don't have a 620, but I do have a 630. I would be cautious with any prying with any knife with a thinly ground tip.

In this case it was abuse/misuse, not a warranty claim in my opinion. It does not appear to be a factory defect that caused that blade tip to break off.

You can get your blade replaced by following the instructions at the ZT Warranty page - you will need to pay $30 to replace the blade.

https://zt.kaiusaltd.com/faq


Good luck as you endeavour to get your knife repaired.

best

mqqn

Of course, it also has a baton blasted lock now, one that will from now, until eternity, fail with the slightest pressure or jolt!

Batonning on a liner or frame lock, while it is engaged, ruins the lock!

Wiggle, wobble, lop of your fingers if you trust it!
 
I do.

And before you pass judgment and start calling names, perhaps understand the situation that picture was taken under. The knife is a Spyderco Mule Team in 4V steel. Spyderco designed the Mule Team line for us to test out different steels, and that's exactly what I was doing.

I was doing a demo job, and while taking a break I decided to see if this steel was as ductile as some say it is. Simple test, stab steel and observe the tip. It performed flawlessly, and the tip looked exactly the same after about 10-15 stabs.

Is this a legitimate test? No. Do I stabs studs for a living? No. Did my informal test put a smile on my face? Yes. Sorry if that bothers you:):thumbup:

Blues Bender, you are quite possibly my favorite BF member now.
 
I've been sitting here reading this thread with a Grayman Satu beside me. I think I'll go baton a redwood now :D
 
.....You did compare a thin, sharp standard grind with a tanto that is designed to have a stronger tip, perhaps had we compared the ZT0630 with the tanto tip with the BM, it might have been a different outcome. ......I don't have a 620, but I do have a 630. I would be cautious with any prying with any knife with a thinly ground tip.

In this case it was abuse/misuse, not a warranty claim in my opinion. It does not appear to be a factory defect that caused that blade tip to break off....

Essentially, this. ^^^^^^^

How can this become a comparison between the Benchmade and ZT? If you're going to compare two knives, you make them models that are as 'equal' as possible.

A different model ZT might have outperformed the Benchmade....and vice versa. A thin point is going to break before a thicker one. Duh. Batoning a folder under lock can ruin it. Duh.

I can break a knife too. OP--you didn't really test or prove anything; all you did was break your knife.
 
Back
Top