SAK Mods! Post your pics, questions and ideas

It is finished! 🎉🥳

Now behold the Alox MoneyChamp:
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74mm closed. 5 layers. 12 tools. Lanyard ring and clip.



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Side shot. Thicc boi.

From top to bottom: spoon gouge, scissors, parcel hook, small nail file paired with a regular knife, orange peeler.



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Other side. 2 seksi.

From bottom to top: cut and picker, small knife paired with regular knife, magnetic phillips combo tool, awl with sewing eye, long nail file.



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The spoon gouge was made by sharpening the tip of a cuticle pusher tool from a Minichamp. Spoon gouges are type of chisel for carving out rounded indentations which are useful for making things such as spoons and bowls.

My first attempt at modifying the cuticle pusher into a spoon gouge ended with mixed results. The chisel worked well, but I had already removed way too much of the spoon while forming the chisel edge. I was much more careful with my second attempt, and this gouge works well enough while still having plenty of material left in the tip for future sharpenings.



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The long nail file has a more aggressive single cut pattern which is only found on the Executive models which were manufactured in the last few years. This latest single cut file patern is much more useful on materials like wood or plastic. That is why it made sense to include two different nail files. Both files have their own different uses. Likewise, the included orange peeler and "cut and picker" tools are both similar in function while having different uses. The orange peeler is an excellent light duty pry tool and cardboard box opener, while the cut and picker tool is better for opening small clam shell packages.




Several of the tools came from the 58mm and 91mm ranges, and so the tools had to be modified to work properly in a 74mm size SAK. In a few cases the pivot holes of the smaller tools also had to be enlarged from 1.5mm to a 2mm diameter.

I had previously seen other modders resort to using cobalt bits to enlarge pivot holes in SAK tools, but it turns out that you don't need any special cobalt drill bits to perform this task if you are only doing it by hand. I was able to do the job without any power tools through the use of sandpaper and hand drilling. Regular cheap hex drill bits were used in conjunction with nothing but a standard 1/4" hex bit screwdriver. I should note here that I did still manage to break two different 5/64" bits, but I didn't care since they were both cheap bits anyway.

I also want to share something else that I found interesting: I actually generated sparks at several points while drilling by hand, which was a pleasant shock and very entertaining. I theorize that the sparks may have something to do with the amount of pressure that the drill bit was under. Even though the bit was difficult to turn and was moving very slowly, it was making a lot of high pitched scrape and squeak noises.







edit:

There were some things I didn't like about the first build of this SAK, so I tore the whole thing apart and rebuilt it.

Here's what's different now:

1. The top two layers have been spaced farther apart. They were functioning fine before, but I didn't like the aesthetics of those two layers being so closely fitted to each other.

2. The brass washers that I was using as spacers for some of the tools have been replaced by stainless steel washers. Brass is soft and I was worried about the thin washers possibly being destroyed by dust and grit. The stainless washers should be a lot more durable in theory.

3. The short finger nail file was replaced by another small secondary knife blade. The small file wasn't aggressive enough for me. I'll get more use from an extra blade. Edges get dull and can't always be sharpened right away, so having another knife is always welcome.

That's basically it.

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There's now an extra liner between the top layer and the layer underneath. This provides some space between the cut and picker and the secondary knife on one side...



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...and between the spoon gouge and the scissors on the other side.



The old brass washers were made by sanding down a few bushings to the required thicknesses. It was quick and easy to make them.

The new stainless steel washers were purchased as 2mm inner diameter washers and were subsequently modified. I used a file to decrease their outer diameter so that they would fit, and then I sanded each one to reduce their thicknesses by the necessary amounts. It took a lot longer to modify the stainless steel washers than it took to make the brass washers, but I think it was probably worth spending that extra time.




edit again: front logo shot

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...the other multitool was an experiment with custom Leatherman Juice building.
 
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I thought I would sponsor a fellow SAK-mod-bro, so I got these *scales from Taschenmesser MAD.
It´s a 84mm Tourist from what I have guessed 1969 (the original celidor scales with a company logo and all the tools and stamp as cues).
Since I like my rivets visible, i made new ones instead of using the snap-on feature. I also gave the tools a acid wash wich I think gave it a more vintage military look
 
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Is this normal?
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Look how the ruler is angled compared to the nail file. The ruler leans a little too much to one side. I haven't done anything to modify the ruler or the springs.

What...? :confused:
I wouldn’t worry about it. The ruler is a lightly stressed tool.
 
I wouldn’t worry about it. The ruler is a lightly stressed tool.
Thanks, but that wasn't the question.

Process of elimination narrowed the root cause down to the alox scales.

Replacing the ruler with an sd nail file didn't fix it, so it's not anything to do with the ruler. Using a different set of springs didn't fix it either. Rotating the scales or changing the spring layout also had no effect, and neither did adding different tools or using different tool configurations with more simple or more complex layouts.

The only thing that made a difference was to switch from the alox scales to a set of aluminum liners which are normally used as the sideplates for the celidor models. That fixed the issue, so somehow the fault rests with those alox scales. I can't figure out how they're any different, but the evidence clearly shows that they must be different in some way. Maybe there is a slight difference in the spacing of the holes. I don't know.

🤷‍♂️

The weirdest thing is that it doesn't seem to affect any of the other tools. It's only the sd ruler and the sd nail file that are affected, and it's definitely because they are both shaped the same way. Aside from the angled slope of the screwdriver tips for each tool being on oppose sides, the shapes of both tools are identical to one another.
 
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I've been experimenting with making bigger rivets.

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1 layer. Knifeless. Combo flat head and combo Phillips head.

It's pretty silly having two bottle openers, but it is what it is. There's a joke in there somewhere about how everything has a bottle opener. Well, this has two of them.

The flat SD tip on the old combo tool is the same width as the normal flat SD tip, but due to the thickness of the combo tool, its flat head has a much bigger wedge shape to it than the normal flat screwdriver on the end of the nail file or the ruler has. As a result, the combo flat head is a lot more useful as pry tool.

Not much else to say. 🤷‍♂️
 
Have you ever done a build with the original celidor scales, but with new liners and your screws?
I haven’t done it that way. It would be pretty difficult given how thin the cellidor is. I suppose the best way would be to snap the rivets back into the scales before drilling and countersinking the screws. It would be pretty cool!
 
I haven’t done it that way. It would be pretty difficult given how thin the cellidor is. I suppose the best way would be to snap the rivets back into the scales before drilling and countersinking the screws. It would be pretty cool!
Why not just fill the scales with epoxy to make them solid first, and then do the holes? I will do a test, but with my own style (pins instead of screws of course 😉 ) with G-10 liners 👍🏿
 
I’m thinking of grinding eyeglass screw driver to my MiniChamp. I was thinking of the flat head driver at first but it seems that the tip of the nail file could be another great candidate for that. It would be easier and faster to grind too I reckon. Also that would save the flat driver from becoming too weak for harder screws. Thoughts?
 
I’m thinking of grinding eyeglass screw driver to my MiniChamp. I was thinking of the flat head driver at first but it seems that the tip of the nail file could be another great candidate for that. It would be easier and faster to grind too I reckon. Also that would save the flat driver from becoming too weak for harder screws. Thoughts?
Sounds good. If you can afford to practice on something else first, then I would.

I can't recall exactly where, but I did read about someone doing that to the nail cleaner tip before and I believe they said it worked pretty well.

Personally, I would not modify the ruler tip just because it's too useful being exactly as it is. I constantly use the flat SD on 58mm saks as a little pry tool.

I almost never use the nail cleaner tip, and when I do, it's almost always as a tiny Phillips. The minichamp already has one of those and it already works well.

The nail cleaner can also work as an awl to some extent, but nobody seems to use it that way, so it's probably not a big loss to modify it into a micro flat driver.
 
Tip of the week ;)
Since I am also interested in old (Swedish Eskilstuna) pocket knives from the early 1900s, I have come across many old celluloid scales in pretty bad shape. I found out two things working on restoring them. 1. Celluloid is solvable in Acetone, and 2. UHU Hart glue is basically liquid Celluloid. Now I have found out that Victorinox Celidor scales are also solvable in Acetone (and with UHU Hart glue).
So, if any one needs to fix deep cuts or scratches on their favorite old SAK scales, just take a small piece of Celidor and solve it with 1:1 Acetone and use a brush to fill the cuts, or put some glue over the hole and a small shaving from a Celidor scale. Just make sure to blow on it so it dries quickly and don´t desolve the scales you want to save :)
 
I want a SAK with blade, scissors, saw and tweezers. Corkscrew would be nice.

Basically the huntsman but it could lose a layer.

If it was possible to remove the bottle opener from a compact and add the saw blade that would be a pretty ideal sak for me.
 
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