Free to do what you want, but I’ll rehash my comment above. My L31 had the clicking and lock rock. Not sure if it came out of box that way or if it happened after my first take down when I removed the lanyard.
Aside - I have a suspicion that quite a few of us who experienced the bad lock rock also took down our knives within the first 10 minutes of receipt.
To be clear, the clicking was so bad, I could hold the knife in a pretty standard grip, and if I choked my thumb up towards the tip, I could click the blade forward with a bit of pressure. It was not a flex, it was an audible click.
A little part of me knew this couldn’t be right. You know how these things are built. Like when you see a Sebenza that isn’t centered, you know someone pinched a washer...
So I retraced my steps, did another takedown, and tightened up every piece during reassembly. First the stand off near the lanyard hole. Completely tightened. Then both screws on the stop pin. Completely tightened. Then I slid the blade and bushing/washers into the frame - completely tightened. Zero lock rock. Zero click. A few days later with an almost obsessive amount of rechecking for lock rock, and still nothing - it is perfect.
I really can’t believe this was a matter of break in. I’ve had the knife for a week. The lock rock was complete user error in my end - I think you may find the same to be true for you. Either way, please try my suggestion and report some feedback.
Hey thanks for the feedback/findings...
Yea, Sharp mentioned it, but he and I have tried just about everything on these...
Here's a quick some up from the last 2 weeks for me on this thread:
Came with rock new and off center and poor action.
Cleaning and lubing and assembling, basically with your instructions, provides the best action... But has lock rock - and pretty substantially for what a sebenza should have... And there is a tiny hint of side to side... Not as bad as Sharp's copy... But still it's there when assembling in this manner.
If I assemble and tighten the pivot down prior to the bushing screws, I can get the action crazy tight... Like others have reported... Like have to open like a slip joint. If I do a careful hybrid assembly between the pivot and bushing screws, I can get the action to be side to side play free, decent action, but not thumb flickable. Centering is good right now, but very touchy depending on what is tightened when.
I've had it apart probably a dozen times and this is as good as I can get it... And I have audible clicks (there's a vid a few pages back)
From seeing other reports here, the pj versions seem to be better for some reason... My current thought is that since the inlay versions still have a locator hole under the clip, perhaps the fact that it's a similar cut to the 21 but doesn't have the larger, stickier, surface area of the titanium lock bar, that it causes more up and down lock bar movement then the pj versions.
Idk what to try next... I'm happy you and others have a good working version... Once CRK opens I may send it in - I'm just annoyed they are claiming that any movement is normal and acceptable... I have several $200 benchmades and zts that lock up more solid then this... for $550 there should be no "acceptable movement".
I'll post back comparisons once I have the same version in a 21... Idk if it will work or not, but I'm curious to try and put the 31 front scale on the 21 and see if I can make a franken 21 lol.
Best wishes!
rileybassman1
and I have tried every sort of order to re-assemble our 31’s and nada. Also, mine still has side to side play, and I’m not new at this. Haha.
