I've taken some time to work with (play with) my two 31s (small PJ and small micarta). As I stated in my previous post both had side to side blade play, and lock rock. The lock rock on the micarta version was much less than the PJ, but still noticeable. On the micarta, if I tightened the pivot all the way the blade was extremely stiff, virtually unusable. It behaved much like an Inkosi. On the PJ, tightening the main pivot had no affect on the action , but lateral blade play was always present. Given the pivot bushing used in the Sebenza I have never experienced these problems in the past with my 21s. Needless to say, this left me frustrated, and confused. After disassembling and reassembling both knives multiple times I discovered what I believe is a solution (or work around).
Theoretically the way you reassemble a Sebansa shouldn't impact its performance. However, with the 3, this does not seem to be the case.
On my 21s, I have always reassembled using the procedure outlined on CRK's web site.
Assemble the handles (leaving the stop pin and rear screws loose)
Slide in the blade
Insert the pivot and screw
Close the knife
Tighten the three screws
The order in which the screws were tightened has never been important. Following this procedure on the 31 resulted in inconsistencies in action and blade play. Yesterday, I assembled my 31s as follows:
Assemble the handles (leaving the stop pin screw and rear screw loose)
Slide in the blade
Insert the pivot and screw
*Open the knife (this is important)
*Depress the lock bar so there is no pressure on the blade (this is also important)
*Tighten the pivot screw all the way
*Tighten the stop screw and rear screws just until snug (do not over tighten)
Close blade
Opening the knife first and tightening down the screws in this order has consistently resulted in buttery smooth “Sebenza” like action, and no lateral blade play.
“Lock Rock” however is still present in both knives, but the PJ seems better than before. I no longer feel the “pinging” or “clicking” sensation with the “lock rock”. The blade however still moves enough to lose contact with the stop pin. (by “lock rock” I’m not talking about the table top test. I'm holding the knife in hand and placing relatively little pressure on the spine.)
My unscientific and unproven theory:
I feel like the new stop pin design is somehow throwing things off in terms of action. Tightening the stop pin and rear screw first, followed by the main pivot seems to throw the knife out of true. Possibly introducing tension and a warp in the handle. The result is tighter action, or blade play, depending on how tight the pivot is. However, leaving the two body screws loose and opening the knife. Then removing lock bar pressure, then tightening the main pivot, seems to line things back up. I'm then careful not to over tighten the stop pin or body screws as to not introduce extra tension or a warp into the handle. As far as “Lock Rock” is concerned, this procedure might help, but certainly doesn't fix it. Again, just my thoughts and very unscientific theory.
). I've seen a few photos of Inkosis with stonewash finish on their tangs. Whether that's due to aftermarket spa treatment or hot out of the mixer, I cannot say. Either way, I've never seen any 21s or earlier without a ground and polished finish to mate to the lockbar.
