- Joined
- May 5, 2014
- Messages
- 181
scooping/notching cuts
when checking sharpness you favored the tip of blade
For 3-5k finished edge, whittle pine probably would reveal more apex weakness.
I took note of the above and made an effort to make more scooping type cuts and harder cuts, as well as deliberately favoring the heel of the blade in sharpness tests, for the following tests conducted on 3-5k finished edges on pine and cardboard (Note I can only post 3 of them in one message so last will be in next message):
[video=youtube;IAGHa-DdQX8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAGHa-DdQX8[/video]
[video=youtube;IxLwfyu0A3Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxLwfyu0A3Y[/video]
[video=youtube;DD5cj1K1yGE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DD5cj1K1yGE[/video]
I began by sharpening the mora on the King deluxe 1k stone but upon inspection I discovered the loosely bonded stone was leaving a lot of abrasive on the edge bevel.
From here I decided that I would use my Shapton Glass stones because they are all cut and almost no mud.
Jason,
Interesting images. Would you by any chance be able to get a few more angles (i.e. tilt edge relative to camera) of both knives?
Also, the results you obtained with the Shapton Glass stones appears, at least at first glance, to accord with what Luong was suggesting: That the waterstones I am using may be working for me on Maxamet because I personally prefer very low bond strength stones and prefer to use them with a heavy slurry, while the much stronger bond relatively slurry free Shapton Glass stones may not work very well on 10V for you.
It would be interesting if you tried the King 1000 and use it with a heavy slurry and see if you get better results on 10V?