Skinna Skinna, Chicken Dinna

Melvin-Purvis said:
Ohay, it's got finner-grooves; neat-o, daddy-o! :cool:
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I hope there's enough of them!
sixfinger[1].jpg
 
Sanded to 1000 grit, seems to be the point when they start to pop.

Everything will darken up and get that deep look after the buff.
Comments and opinions welcome.
 
lessismore said:
Sanded to 1000 grit, seems to be the point when they start to pop.

Everything will darken up and get that deep look after the buff.
Comments and opinions welcome.
Click to expand...

I'll take it! :D

Looking great Johnny, I think's youz got this knife mangling thing down. :thumbup: One you hit the leather with sealer and buff it that is going to really pop!
 
I'm seriously impressed. You are really nailing this knifemaking stuff.
 
Thanks Mack, I appreciate that:thumbup:
It's taught me patience, something I could have used a long time ago.

Me before knifemangling:
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How my brain feels on knifemangling
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What's really going on up there
homer-simpson-mind-o.gif

:D
 
lessismore said:
Sanded to 1000 grit, seems to be the point when they start to pop.

Everything will darken up and get that deep look after the buff.
Comments and opinions welcome.
Click to expand...

Looking really good, what did you decide on for the final finish, snow seal with bee's wax?
 
Yeah, I'm gonna try to melt some together tomorrow. Sno seal is supposed to already have beeswax in it, we'll see how it goes. Mixing might be a disaster, never know. I'll post in here if it works out or not.

I'm anxious to see how the alternating thicknesses are gonna look, so far I like it.
 
For what it's worth I use just plain snow seal, I don't think adding more bee's wax will will help much, because I think the petroleum base in the snow seal evaporates off and leaves mainly the bee's wax behind, but it's worth a try.
 
One other thing I'm starting to like is Ren wax after the snow seal, give a good sheen to anything I put it on.
 
Scott Hanson said:
For what it's worth I use just plain snow seal, I don't think adding more bee's wax will will help much, because I think the petroleum base in the snow seal evaporates off and leaves mainly the bee's wax behind, but it's worth a try.
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You're probably right Scott. I'm curious about the consistency, it will probably harden the same as wax, maybe it will be easier to spread. I just mixed about two tablespoons of pure beeswax with two tablespoons of sno seal, and threw in a teaspoon of renwax in a double boiler. I was expecting the Ren wax to settle or float, but it all seemed to mix evenly, had that crystally look throughout. I thought about throwing in some linseed oil, but was afraid of getting that smell in the handle.

Scott Hanson said:
One other thing I'm starting to like is Ren wax after the snow seal, give a good sheen to anything I put it on.
Click to expand...
I really like Ren wax, a tiny bit goes a long way and it seems durable.
 
Don't put Lin seed oil on your knife handles or anything else it takes for every to harden if it ever hardens and it continually darkens over time until it turns black. Bee's wax is what they used to seal leather pales with hundreds of years ago. Some of those buckets are 400 years old and still in pretty good shape. I use snow seal first the apply Ren wax second and get a nice sheen.
 
I usually wipe a little mineral oil on my stag and ivory for a few days then wipe it off a few days later, I repeat this a few times a year. I don't put it on the leather I put more snow seal on the leather if starts looking dry.
 
That's good to know Scott, I appreciate the knowledge you drop in here and I'm sure others do too. I really don't like the smell of linseed oil, and am glad I didn't put any in there after reading that!

Well it's a lot softer than beeswax, and looks like butter. Baby food jars are ever handy. It looks like it mixed well judging by the color difference, that's pure beeswax from our hives on the Ren wax.
 
Looking very good, John!

I quit using sno-seal on my sheaths as it was getting them too dark, so went to straight Ren. Wax instead. Sunshine heat helps melt it in nicely. You're right about a little going a long way; I'm still working out of the same can after 15 years. Pro-tip: if you use the same wipe down rag, dedicated to Ren. Wax only, and keep it in a ziplock bag when not in use, the can of Ren. wax will last even longer...
 
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