Slipjoint questions

Farmer Phil said:
Hi Friends,

I down loaded the coke bottle pattern and printed it out. I'm not going for the full size. Will do it at about 3.75" closed with a 2.5" blade.

http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottl...e-drawing1.jpg
http://boseknives.com/tbosecokebottl...e-drawing2.jpg

Are you saying I should cut it out in plastic (plexiglass?) first? Do you mean just the blade and spring? Or, the liners and bolsters too?

Should I pin/mock it up on a wooden board like on page three of Chris Crawford's slip joint tutorial?

http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com

I have some 1/8" 1084. So I should be able to manage the blade and spring. I have some brass I can use for the liners. I'd like to go with copper (or brass) for the bolsters, but I can't figure out how to do the blade's pivot pin. Would the steel pin just look too funky against the copper (or brass)? I'd like to do copper (or brass) as I'm hoping to do the scales in malachite. (Malachite and copper come from the same ore sources and go together very well.)

Ok, mentors, fire your help back as you are able.

Thanks so much, Phil
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Where are you finding the drawings on that site? I found patterns but none broken down into individual pieces. Thanks Ryan
 
Brass will wear more than steel but it will take a while, for the liners make sure it pretty thick and straight. I did brass liners with nickle silver boslters and pins and that looks good. I am not sure brass is any softer that nickel silver. There should not be any other problems with brass used for the pivot pin / Here is photo of my model. The model is just a easy way to work out any issues before going to steel. If you sand too much off, just glue more plastic on.

Setting up on a board is the way to go. It has to be a really hard wood, I use micarta otherwise the pins wiggle and you cant get a good set up. I set up just the blade and spring to get everything working property and fit and the set up again with the liners. That way everything fits good and works well.

cokemodel001.jpg


cokemodel002.jpg


cokemodel003.jpg


cokemodel004.jpg
 
Ryan Minchew said:
Where are you finding the drawings on that site? I found patterns but none broken down into individual pieces. Thanks Ryan
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Hey Ryan,

I believe drawing 1 pretty much has most of what we need. The blade and the spring are clearly drawn out individually there. The handle at the top shows the shape for the two liners as well as the two (four) bolsters, thus also the handles scales between them. I think we can play with the length of the bolsters and scales between, but need to stay true to the shape and size of the liners. There's also some pin placement detail there. Drawing 2 adds more pin detail regarding the blade pivot.

That's my take on it anyway. I'm not sure how thick to make everything, but hope to figure it out.

All the best, Phil
 
Sound, and looks, good Patrick.

I'm going to see what I can round up for some plexiglass. What diameter pin do you work with? And, how much variance would you recommend? In other words, how wide is too wide? And, how narrow is too narrow?

Thanks, Phil
 
hevy ev's said:
heres what I have decided on does anyone have a doctor pattern handy

you can see basically what I am wanting to do a doctor style knife with a little twist on the bolsters and ironwood with a little file work on top
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Did you come up with the doctor pattern yet?
 
For a smaller knife I use 3/32 pins. the orginal size cokebottle I used 1/8. I would stick with 3/32 so you dont have hole too close to edge.

You can drill the pivot hole in the blade, the holes in the spring and the pivot hole in the liner but wait on the last two hole in the liner until you fit the spring. The placement of those holes is important to get the spring in the correct position and under tension.

Here are two I just finished last night..
A2 blade and spring, 304 ss liner , nickle silver boslter and pins, maroon and amber jigged bone scales. Steel is 1/8 thick. 1/8 makes for a hefty knife of this size but is not too thick, 3/32 can get a little thin if you need to flatten a bit. I have done this knife in both and happy with both but I have put 3/32 back in the drawer for being too thin. Right now I am staying with 1/8.
brnfolder002.jpg


brnfolder013.jpg
 
for when it gets (the pattern knife) here how do I need to rip it apart I would like to just drill it out but I won't be able to see the pins and if I pry it apart I don't want to bend it
 
File the bolsters a little and the pins should show, use a 3/32 drill and just drill a little bit, you just need to remove the small head inside the bolster. Us a screwdriver to pry it apart.

I dont use a pattern for the bolsters, I cut a square piece (what every you choose) and flatten the bottom (solder or mounting side) and square one edge (edge against the handle material). If it is nice and square you square an edge on your handle and you have a good fit. I solder the upper bolster into place cut the handle to length and square bottom edge. Clamp handle and mount lower bolster into place, clamp, remove handle and solder lower. Check fit. Then you have to match the next side with the first, not too bad in the handles are exactly the same lenght, just match the top bolsters, solder, mount handles and do lower bolster. Check fit and that bolster are even, if not remove odd ball and resolder. I then grind the bolsters (lots of water) to withing about 1/32 of the liner, just leave a little to fit later. Note the spring has been fitted prior to this and all the holes drilled (including the pin holes for the handles, drilled in the line not the handle). And the liner is in its final shape (very close anyway).

I have not started my new Coke Bottle yet, I need to order some 1095, I have O1 but really like the patinea I got on the old knife.
 
man I hate when I have to hurry up and wait when ups gets here I will be like a kid in a candy store.
 
hevy ev's said:
for when it gets (the pattern knife) here how do I need to rip it apart I would like to just drill it out but I won't be able to see the pins and if I pry it apart I don't want to bend it
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You can also use a box cutter blade and hammer to cut the pins. Put the box cutter blade beside the open knife blade and betwen the liner and hit it with the hammer until it cuts the pin. Do the same with the other pins. Just be careful and hold onto the box cutter blade. Use the blade only and not the box cutter itself.
 
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Well, I went to a local hardware outfit, City Mill. Struck out on two counts: no 1/8 plexi nor 3/32 brass rod. Guess I'll have to shop around.
 
Home depot carries plexigas, you can get brass pins from most hobby store that do cars and airplanes.
 
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