Spyderco Bushcraft total failure.(Warning:Knife gore present)

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no.I hit the blade up to get it loose.I wasn't going to beat it all the way out of the wood.neither was I going to grab the edge of the blade to pull it loose.I hit the handle up with my hand grabbing it at the same time so I wouldn't fall out on the rocks when it broke.
 
savagesicslayer said:
no.I hit the blade up to get it loose.I wasn't going to beat it all the way out of the wood.neither was I going to grab the edge of the blade to pull it loose.I hit the handle up with my hand grabbing it at the same time so I wouldn't fall out on the rocks when it broke.
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Sorry for the inquisition. Thank you!
 
sucks man.......


personally i would save the small knives for making fuzzsticks and cutting salami and cheese for lunch, and using a proper chopper knife or axe for splitting wood.....

just my 2cents
 
Smash05 said:
Actually, I think Sal wants to analyze it to figure out what went wrong.
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I should say he wants to analyze it...especially to see if they built it to his specs.

First it's the "stabilized" wood that dries and cracks. I've always been under the impression that true stabilized wood is just that and it's impervious to moisture. Sal didn't get what he contracted for and was forced to make the best of it. (and I get the impression the factory covered up the extent of the problem with huge amounts of linseed to get the knives out the door)

Now we see a catastrophic failure in either the steel and/or workmanship in the blank. We all know Sal has been around here (and that overseas forum) enough to know that these knives would see reasonable and properly done batoning so it's a fair assumption (?) the design and specs took that into account.

So if a factory buyer decides "this wood is good enough" and an engineer decides "use this steel it's the same" and a line foreman says "no cut holes this size" what happens?

Hate to say it and it's a crying shame if true but it sounds to me like Sal accepted a bid from a factory that then proceeded to screw him.


Soooooo....how do you guys like those sheaths so far?
 
Ramm9 said:
Now we see a catastrophic failure in either the steel and/or workmanship in the blank.
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you have a knife with half a handle batoned into a log touching the log, which is a peculiar situation. No definite conclusions as to the steel quality yet along the lines that I can see., or is there any?
 
CUTS LIKE A KRIS said:
He was battoning when he felt the buckle and pulled it apart, but I seriously doubt he battonned the knife with his hand! If so I would pity the fool who takes his right cross!
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The OP stated that he noticed the scales buckle, not the blade, which then disintegrated in his hand.

savagesicslayer said:
I noticed the scales started to buckle so I started backing it off.When i grabbed the blade and pulled it up it snapped off clean.
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savagesicslayer said:
I started to back the knife out and when i thought it was free enough I hit the handle...what was left of the handle to free the knife and it snapped off.
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savagesicslayer said:
I hit the handle up with my hand grabbing it at the same time so I wouldn't fall out on the rocks when it broke.
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Ramm9 said:
Now we see a catastrophic failure in either the steel and/or workmanship in the blank.

Rasenkrieger said:
you have a knife with half a handle batoned into a log touching the log, which is a peculiar situation. No definite conclusions as to the steel quality yet along the lines that I can see., or is there any?
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No, no definite conclusions about the workmanship of the blank either. We also have a picture of a knife blank in two pieces when there should only be one.

If I supplied the steel I would want to point a finger at the scales or workmanship; if I cut the blank I would want to point a finger at the steel or scales, if I supplied the scales I would want to hang my head and look at my shoes. Everybody would like to point at the operator error but that might backfire if more operators appear on the horizon.

If I was Cliff I would want to point fingers everywhere on an alternating basis just to keep thing interesting.

Which one are you?
 
Nice job on the video Tony. :thumbup: :cool: :thumbup:



Ramm9 said:
First it's the "stabilized" wood that dries and cracks.

I've always been under the impression that true stabilized wood is just that and it's impervious to moisture.

Sal didn't get what he contracted for and was forced to make the best of it.
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Unlike regular wood, whose fibers are intact, spalted wood is in the process of decay and is inherantly unstable.

The stabilization process does a great job of firming-up softer woods that might not be tough enough for hard use knife handles, but expecting it to make rotten wood into Micarta is asking too much.

Mike Stewart (probably the largest user of spalted wood in the industry) does not recommend it for hard use knives and sees about a 25% failure rate.

Many people like the look (not I :barf: ) and that's fine, but I believe is was just a poor choice to use it on a knife like this. :rolleyes:



Big Mike
 
savagesicslayer said:
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Unbeliveble:mad:
 
I was splitting some wood with a Becker Tac-Tool recently and it broke in half. The fact is, I was hitting the Becker with the back of a hatchet and had done so repeatedly. I was disappointed it broke, but it was my fault.

I'm not a big fan of the "blame the OP when he cites a problem" response, but, doesn't batoning come with the risk of the knife breaking -- especially in a relatively small knife? I don't have a problem with anyone doing it, but the risk of failure and its consequences would seem to lie with the user to me. I don't think batoning is abuse, but I'm not sure it is using the knife like it was intended.
 
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I know battonning is always a hot button issue, but I can't imagine it as abuse for a knife meant for bushcraft. Mears does it plenty, and I'm pretty sure he doesn't think of himself as a knife abuser.
 
wow...I'm suprised they skeletonized the tang.


I do it on my bigger knives for sure....but not on my bushcraft knives.

you can see it in a pic I just posted here - handle holes only.


Hope this doesn't end up scaring away buyers from skeletonized tangs and natural handle materials..!! :(


Dan
 
lava_lamp said:
I was splitting some wood with a Becker Tac-Tool recently and it broke in half. The fact is, I was hitting the Becker with the back of a hatchet and had done so repeatedly.
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Battoning is properly done with WOODEN mallet or branch or piece of wood. Wood on steel and steel on steel are completly different ball games. Wood on steel is ok. Steel on steel will destroy most tempered steel knives in short time and should be avoided.

lava_lamp said:
I'm not a big fan of the "blame the OP when he cites a problem" response, but, doesn't battoning come with the risk of the knife breaking -- especially in a relatively small knife?
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Hey, those bushcraft are all 5mm thick and full tang. If you can't batton with those, what for? I mean we've got to the point calling 3mm knives thin. Those thick knives should handle battoning no question, if not you'd be better off with some real thin knife like traditional puukko or trade knives which can handle so battoning by the way.
 
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Ravaillac said:
Battoning is properly done with WOODEN mallet or branch or piece of wood. Wood on steel and steel on steel are completly different ball games. Wood on steel is ok. Steel on steel will destroy most tempered steel knives in short time and should be avoided.
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I concur :)

If and when I baton I'll use a piece of wood or even a rubber mallet if I have one handy.
 
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