SRM, Bee, Enlan, Navy and knives Fan post

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OhShoot said:
So, who knows what this picture is on handle of the black 710?
Just a fanciful nothing, or jellyfish, or ????

b4-710-1.jpg


- OS
Click to expand...

It's a fireball with a tiger inside of it. I have a couple of those too!
 
oxbld said:
It's a fireball with a tiger inside of it. I have a couple of those too!
Click to expand...

Well I'll be damned. Looked at the thing every which way, but turned on it's side with your hint, there it is!

I kept trying to see womans face with hair streaming down, or something. Thanks, can sleep tonight! :)

- OS
 
the black SRM710 i got is a POS unfortunately, lock feels awful, loose etc. and i wasnt too impressed with the action of the 710 silver, but it is much better. they are decent and cheap, but i have found much better knives in the rest of enlan and SRM's lineup.
 
diablo_man said:
the black SRM710 i got is a POS unfortunately, lock feels awful, loose etc. and i wasnt too impressed with the action of the 710 silver, but it is much better. they are decent and cheap, but i have found much better knives in the rest of enlan and SRM's lineup.
Click to expand...

That's too bad, have several of the stainless (gonna give a few away) and one black one, which behaves pretty much the same as the others.

The only real diffs are that the audible click when it locks in and the click of the detente when closing aren't as distinct, which I attribute to the black coating on everything dampening it some.

Also, there is a slight structural diff on my black one, the locking side of the frame has a cutout on the outside of the frame while the stainless ones have a cutout on the inside.

- OS
 
masa said:
I pushed it with my thumb. Am I doing it wrong?
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Yes. You're supposed to use your tongue. ;)

Seriously, though: I've found that the knife does not like a slow push. It wants to jerk open and then slow down quite a bit when you do that. If you flick it, it should fly open without stopping. I actually pressed and held the lock outwards (by hand) quite a bit to decrease the amount of resistance on the blade. I am not necessarily recommending that, but it did make mine much easier to open.

Consult your physician before undertaking a routine that involves stressing sharp objects in ways they weren't designed to be stressed.
 
masa said:
I pushed it with my thumb. Am I doing it wrong?
Click to expand...

Well, it is a thumbstud and certainly you can just push it open with thumb touching all the way through arc ....

But I flick it, stud against thumbnail, imagine you were shooting a marble (maybe bad example, kids don't grow up playing marbles anymore I guess).

Anyway, it's a flick mostly straight up with thumb, with stub against nail, thumb only contacts stud for half a second. A little wrist flick at same time makes it even more forgiving technique. Most knives with thumbstuds can be opened this way, also knives with holes like Spydies.

- OS
 
maybe i got a meatier thumb, thumbnail flicks the stud, when it leaves the nail, its about where I get nick with the pushing action.
 
@masa: I've nicked myself on a a couple like that before as well. I found that if I shift my grip to move my hand just a little bit up the handle (towards the pivot, just a fraction of an inch), it can make a big difference. It reduces/eliminates the twisting when your hand clenches as you flick the blade out (mainly for thinner handles), which results in your thumb never being in the path of the blade (assuming you're flicking up and out).
 
The problem of flicking is if the momentum is not enough, the blade flings outward, stop, while your thumb still moving. I got nicked sometimes.

Been flicking all my blades, SRM 763, 710, Enlan EL02, Navy k631 .. :P
 
what do you think of the left handed compression lock? I was thinking of testing it out sometime soon
 
I don't feel any difference between the right and the left handed compression locks (I use my thumb to disangage the lock and my index finger to close the blade) both of them is a bit awkward for me. At this particular model I'm planning to enlarge the cut out on the handle for an easier access to the lock.
 
Vortex,

Nice new additions!

After using both EL02 and K631 side by side in more controlled manner (alternating them daily) for shaving & opening instant coffee packages, which should be mild, I found edge holding of Enlan to be a bit better, i.e the crisp edge lasts longer. Both micro beveled around 40 nowadays.

What has been your experience?
 
I love Sanrenmu and Enlan knives! I have a 763, El-01 and two Ganzo knives.
However, I was slightly disappointed in the two Ganzos I got, a g710 and g704.
Both had chipped edges, medium visible chips. The g704 had uneven edge grinds and a chip on the spine. The g710 was not smooth at all and slight play all around.
I easily fixed these issues, but I think I'll stay with Sanrenmu and Enlan.
 
Chris,
Without any serious testing it seems my Enlans hold their edge better than my Navys.

Mephtyrm,
I had those small cosmetic flaws on my G704 too, but my G710 is perfect. The opening and closing is as smooth as my Griptillian and the lock up is solid without any blade play.
How did you manage to fix the vertical blade play? (I have an older g704 which has some.)
 
vortex- I flicked them constantly until the axis bar wore in a little deeper, then I tightened the pivots.
I have the 4mm thick blade of the g704, so that may have helped stopped the vertical play, but if you
have the older 3mm version, I don't think the play will go away.
 
I have both the new 4 mm and the old 3.7 mm thick ones. Only the 3.7 mm one has some vertical blade play.
 
Vortex,

Thanks for confirming my observation.

The only reason, given the design of axis, to have vertical bladeplayis pivot being not 100% snug fit.

The lock bar should ride up to the tang & snuggly fit there, producing enough opposing forces between it and stop pin.
 
About Navy knives recently got a K622 and it came with a sold lockup, smooth action and an uneven edge bevel.
Ground a consistent one and did some cardboard cutting tests.
It did not hold an edge as long as my Sanrenmu 763, and a Youtube video states that the steel is actually 7Cr17MoV.
Basically it's very similar to 440A. I was hoping that that statement about it being 7Cr17MoV wasn't true, but it seems to be fact.
 
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