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I don't have the K.O. but my District 9 came with a 5.3 mm thick VG10 blade, ball-bearing pivot system and a solid titanium pocket clip. It has a slightly different blade shape and finish too.
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I don't have the K.O. but my District 9 came with a 5.3 mm thick VG10 blade, ball-bearing pivot system and a solid titanium pocket clip. It has a slightly different blade shape and finish too.
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Simple fix for the Ganzo lockup problem: take out the blade, file a little bit [across] the tang, it'll engage deeper. It's not weak lock, it's only easily slip lock, which are totally different.
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Sorry, no pics.
The tang is a flat slope to accept the lockbar. By filing off fraction of milimeter (making sure it's still flat), it'll allow the lockbar rides/engages deeper, preventing accidental slip as described. Make sure it's only a little. Too much will result in lockbar going full forward but still not solidly engaged, resulting in vertical play.
Taking off metal is easy, putting back is impossible without going back to the furnace, thus the caution to do very little at a time, put it back and check.
Also important is to have the scratch pattern across the tang width, so it forms microscopic 'bumps' to add friction to the engagement/mating surface
Hope it clarifies.
The tang is a flat slope to accept the lockbar. By filing off fraction of milimeter (making sure it's still flat), it'll allow the lockbar rides/engages deeper, preventing accidental slip as described. Make sure it's only a little. Too much will result in lockbar going full forward but still not solidly engaged, resulting in vertical play.
Taking off metal is easy, putting back is impossible without going back to the furnace, thus the caution to do very little at a time, put it back and check.
Also important is to have the scratch pattern across the tang width, so it forms microscopic 'bumps' to add friction to the engagement/mating surface
Hope it clarifies.
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As good as Axis lock, finally both springs broke on my SRM 763. The weak action up to now turned out to be the only spring that was working was at point of breaking. At the curve, there was a bent that any time it'd break. I took it out and attempted to straigthen it, seemed to work but when testing the 'springiness' it totally broke. The other spring had broken much earlier.
Photo of the disassembled knife, for those interested.
I've been thinking since: what's the use of axis strength if it depends on a thin spring. It can be replaced, but as an EDC it's a hassle. The only designs that are as strong (or stronger) and not depending on thin spring are Demko Tri-ad and Spyderco compression lock. Both use a thicker spring mechanism (metal rod or liner) to hold the wedge between blade tang an stop pin.
Now replacement issue, some mentioned guitar string should be good as replacement. I guess not the classical nylon string, but electric one. Which size should it be? Anyone tested one?
Photo of the disassembled knife, for those interested.
I've been thinking since: what's the use of axis strength if it depends on a thin spring. It can be replaced, but as an EDC it's a hassle. The only designs that are as strong (or stronger) and not depending on thin spring are Demko Tri-ad and Spyderco compression lock. Both use a thicker spring mechanism (metal rod or liner) to hold the wedge between blade tang an stop pin.
Now replacement issue, some mentioned guitar string should be good as replacement. I guess not the classical nylon string, but electric one. Which size should it be? Anyone tested one?
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Update: fixed 763 with thinned down cable tie (zip tie) that usually used also to make wave.
The strength is not very much, so I have to remove a thin layer of blade tang to allow the weaker 'spring' pushing the lockbar deeper. There's a little up-down play, but lockup now doesn't get disengaged by spine pressure. Passed spine whack test
. Pushing the lockbar manually forward removes the up-down play.
On closed position, the 'spring' is not enough to retain the blade, so it functions more like friction folder. I tightened down the pivot to further prevent accidental opening.
The strength is not very much, so I have to remove a thin layer of blade tang to allow the weaker 'spring' pushing the lockbar deeper. There's a little up-down play, but lockup now doesn't get disengaged by spine pressure. Passed spine whack test
. Pushing the lockbar manually forward removes the up-down play.On closed position, the 'spring' is not enough to retain the blade, so it functions more like friction folder. I tightened down the pivot to further prevent accidental opening.
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Chris "Anagarika";11639441 said:As good as Axis lock, finally both springs broke on my SRM 763. The weak action up to now turned out to be the only spring that was working was at point of breaking. At the curve, there was a bent that any time it'd break. I took it out and attempted to straigthen it, seemed to work but when testing the 'springiness' it totally broke. The other spring had broken much earlier.
Photo of the disassembled knife, for those interested.
I've been thinking since: what's the use of axis strength if it depends on a thin spring. It can be replaced, but as an EDC it's a hassle. The only designs that are as strong (or stronger) and not depending on thin spring are Demko Tri-ad and Spyderco compression lock. Both use a thicker spring mechanism (metal rod or liner) to hold the wedge between blade tang an stop pin.
Now replacement issue, some mentioned guitar string should be good as replacement. I guess not the classical nylon string, but electric one. Which size should it be? Anyone tested one?
Hi,
I don't know anything about the axis lock, since I've never owned one. But I have made a few springs over the years. Guitar strings are made from piano wire, which is exactly what small wire springs are made from.
You will need to accurately measure the wire diameter with either a caliper or micrometer. Small piano wire is listed by diameter in either thousandths of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter. Just go to the nearest music instrument store and ask for a string of that size.
You will need to make a simple bending jig of some kind. It can be made from woods. The biggest trick is to know that after you form a spring, you need to heat it in an oven to anneal it slightly to make it springy. Here is a good website that explains how to make wire springs. http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/intro.html
dalee
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- Mar 7, 2001
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Dalee,
Many thanks for the tips. As temporary solution, two pieces of thinned down zip tie work, albeit not strong enough.
Merry Xmas to all Chinese knives fan!
Many thanks for the tips. As temporary solution, two pieces of thinned down zip tie work, albeit not strong enough.
Merry Xmas to all Chinese knives fan!
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- Aug 21, 2009
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- 48
For those of you who own the G711 o G712, did you notice that the spring tension was rather weak, enabling one to use a little arm and wrist action to whip the blade out with out the thumb studs or retracting the axis lock?
I ask because a seller of these two has refused to ship these to Canada due to customs problems. Over here in Canada, autos, butterflies and "gravity" blades are illegal. Of these 3 categories, i can only imagine them classifying it as a gravity blade (if the spring tension was so weak that one could whip it open). Depending on how picky the particular customs officer is and whether or not he really cares, these two may be deemed "gravity" blades.
It sucks cause i'm really interested in the 2 blades. I've gotten a g704 and it was quite easy to whip out and customs never took it. I've also get the el-01 that is stiffer and of course didn't get taken. argggg
I ask because a seller of these two has refused to ship these to Canada due to customs problems. Over here in Canada, autos, butterflies and "gravity" blades are illegal. Of these 3 categories, i can only imagine them classifying it as a gravity blade (if the spring tension was so weak that one could whip it open). Depending on how picky the particular customs officer is and whether or not he really cares, these two may be deemed "gravity" blades.
It sucks cause i'm really interested in the 2 blades. I've gotten a g704 and it was quite easy to whip out and customs never took it. I've also get the el-01 that is stiffer and of course didn't get taken. argggg
While I'm no fan of black or serrated blades, I'm a sucker for a modified sheepsfoot design.
Enter the SRM 913p.
The design is reminiscent of BM's excellent Triage series, a blade shape that BM ought to expand to other models.
The 913p isn't a direct knockoff of the Triage -- there's no seat belt cutter or glass breaker. And it's a liner lock instead of Axis lock.
The 913p is open pillar construction with double thumb studs and a decent amount of jimping.
The specs don't say what black coating is used but it doesn't look as cheap as I've seen on some less expensive folders.
Out of the box, the clip is too tight to be used. There's a decent-sized lanyard hole.
The blade is about 3.5 inches and the not-too-grippy scales are listed as G10. It's steel-lined -- this is not a welter-weight but it is light enough for me to EDC once I get the clip working.
The knife opens with a nice "thwack."
I briefly saw a satin, PE version advertised in Germany, but the dealer didn't ship to the U.S.
Sorry, no pics.
Street prices are under $20, or $60 if you buy from the reseller who ships from the U.S. I bought from China and got delivery in just over two weeks.
Enter the SRM 913p.
The design is reminiscent of BM's excellent Triage series, a blade shape that BM ought to expand to other models.
The 913p isn't a direct knockoff of the Triage -- there's no seat belt cutter or glass breaker. And it's a liner lock instead of Axis lock.
The 913p is open pillar construction with double thumb studs and a decent amount of jimping.
The specs don't say what black coating is used but it doesn't look as cheap as I've seen on some less expensive folders.
Out of the box, the clip is too tight to be used. There's a decent-sized lanyard hole.
The blade is about 3.5 inches and the not-too-grippy scales are listed as G10. It's steel-lined -- this is not a welter-weight but it is light enough for me to EDC once I get the clip working.
The knife opens with a nice "thwack."
I briefly saw a satin, PE version advertised in Germany, but the dealer didn't ship to the U.S.
Sorry, no pics.
Street prices are under $20, or $60 if you buy from the reseller who ships from the U.S. I bought from China and got delivery in just over two weeks.
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I want to discuss again whether having a Tenacious at 3 times the price worth it (back few pages).
Have anyone seen Youtube by RuslanKiyasov? I watched two tests: Tenacious (Black) and Enlan EL02 / Navy K632. If anyone speaks Russian, can help translating his discussion on the video?
The Tenacious has made 70 cuts to the rope and still was sharper than Enlan EL02 (30 cuts) and Navy K632 (<20 cuts). I guess the heat treat of Spyderco is really superior. It might not be exactly 3 times but the difference is obvious!
Using Google Translate, some of the discussion on his YT channel mentioned Navy was tested to have HRC 48
while Enlan at HRC 58 - 59 still can't last as long as Tenacious (I guess 60?). I don't really think it's geometry (blade grind, etc.) as to cut paper, with same edge angle, the thickness behind the edge will not matter so much. It shows that the apex was dulled enough not to bite into the paper properly after the number of cuts.
Lastly,
Happy Holiday and New Year everyone!
Have anyone seen Youtube by RuslanKiyasov? I watched two tests: Tenacious (Black) and Enlan EL02 / Navy K632. If anyone speaks Russian, can help translating his discussion on the video?
The Tenacious has made 70 cuts to the rope and still was sharper than Enlan EL02 (30 cuts) and Navy K632 (<20 cuts). I guess the heat treat of Spyderco is really superior. It might not be exactly 3 times but the difference is obvious!
Using Google Translate, some of the discussion on his YT channel mentioned Navy was tested to have HRC 48
while Enlan at HRC 58 - 59 still can't last as long as Tenacious (I guess 60?). I don't really think it's geometry (blade grind, etc.) as to cut paper, with same edge angle, the thickness behind the edge will not matter so much. It shows that the apex was dulled enough not to bite into the paper properly after the number of cuts.Lastly,
Happy Holiday and New Year everyone!
That can be possible. I had some edge retention problems with my Enlan El01 and with all my 8cr13mov and 440C steel as well.
After a barbecue, that is called asado here in Argentina. Just cutting some cheese, salami, bread, and other semi hard food and later some big chunks of grilled meat. The edge loose that razor edge and catches paper. Of course it's still a service edge. But it looses the shaving capabilitie quite fast.
Then just with a fine stone on the Lansky sharpener it
I'm asking too much for a 17 dollars steel?
After a barbecue, that is called asado here in Argentina. Just cutting some cheese, salami, bread, and other semi hard food and later some big chunks of grilled meat. The edge loose that razor edge and catches paper. Of course it's still a service edge. But it looses the shaving capabilitie quite fast.
Then just with a fine stone on the Lansky sharpener it
I'm asking too much for a 17 dollars steel?
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The steel is the same as Tenacious series, so the higher price is justified IMO by better heat treat. Am EDCing them: SRM, Enlan and Resilience. All are good I guess.
From those videos, it seems that Navy does a bad job: lying about the steel and bad heat treat. I recalled Stefanwolf said it's likely 7Cr, which is below 440C spec. It has been my experience that Navy has worse edge retention than SRM or Enlan.
However, seeing the Tenacious outcut the Enlan by that margin was still a surprise for me.
From those videos, it seems that Navy does a bad job: lying about the steel and bad heat treat. I recalled Stefanwolf said it's likely 7Cr, which is below 440C spec. It has been my experience that Navy has worse edge retention than SRM or Enlan.
However, seeing the Tenacious outcut the Enlan by that margin was still a surprise for me.
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Chris "Anagarika";11666123 said:I want to discuss again whether having a Tenacious at 3 times the price worth it (back few pages).
Have anyone seen Youtube by RuslanKiyasov? I watched two tests: Tenacious (Black) and Enlan EL02 / Navy K632. If anyone speaks Russian, can help translating his discussion on the video?
The Tenacious has made 70 cuts to the rope and still was sharper than Enlan EL02 (30 cuts) and Navy K632 (<20 cuts). I guess the heat treat of Spyderco is really superior. It might not be exactly 3 times but the difference is obvious!
Using Google Translate, some of the discussion on his YT channel mentioned Navy was tested to have HRC 48
Lastly,
Happy Holiday and New Year everyone!
Interesting! Was the bevel and angle of the edge the same in those blades?
I don't have a Chinese made Spyderco, but I do have Chinese made Kershaw and CRKT blades, and they perform equally well as the SRM and Enlan blades I own.
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From the video, it seems he did resharpen them. If anyone can speak Russian willing to watch and share the transcript, it'll be helpful.
I still don't think it's profile related, as the dulling of the apex was obvious from the paper cut test.
Can anyone bumped into a thread that has the post linking to Kiyasov's test on PPT and Tenacious (two videos), please help linking it. I actually copied out the link to his YT video from a thread but couldn't find that thread again. It must be related to 8CR steel as used by Spyderco and the posted response contained tese two videos. It can be under BF's General, Testing, or Spyderco subforum. Or the General subforum on Spyderco.com itself.
I still don't think it's profile related, as the dulling of the apex was obvious from the paper cut test.
Can anyone bumped into a thread that has the post linking to Kiyasov's test on PPT and Tenacious (two videos), please help linking it. I actually copied out the link to his YT video from a thread but couldn't find that thread again. It must be related to 8CR steel as used by Spyderco and the posted response contained tese two videos. It can be under BF's General, Testing, or Spyderco subforum. Or the General subforum on Spyderco.com itself.
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razorburn
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Chris "Anagarika";11623418 said:
Chris "Anagarika";11627660 said:
Chris A.I have to disagree with you take on repairing the lockup on the the Ganzo G711.First, Filing the blade tang - a big no no in my book.From what I remember reading Benchmade from time to time replaces the stop pin with a larger one and what STR uses to fix an emerson with blade lockup issues was adjustable(assemetrical) shaped stop pin.
For me,I went with filing a flat spot on the stop pin,which quickly remedied the lockbar engagement.As this method leave room for error as if you go to far another spot can be filed flat.
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Filing a flat spot on stop pin will work too.
The difference is:
- Stop pin solution will allow deeper engagement by rotating the whole blade further, making the blade tang ramp changes it's slope a little bit, giving the lockbar more room to move in. However, since the blade rotates further before stopped by stop pin, the angle of the ramp increases, against the direction of lockbar travel. This means the lockbar facing a steeper 'uphill' in the travel, and will require a stronger spring to maintain constant position during jarring impact (spine whack).
- Filing tang ramp solution making more room for lockbar to move in while at the same time maintain the same 'uphill' angle against the lockbar travel by removibg a thin layer of metal at the same angle as the original. This worked well for me who currently using weaker spring (not ideal), and has passed the spine whack test.
Both will work almost the same (negligible difference) when the changes are miniscule (almost zero). The tang ramp method might be better if the changes being more significant, i.e. lowering the tang end by half milimeter. At this point:
- the stop pin will loose about half mm of it's thickness (assuming both spot have same distance from pivot, so it requires same amount if travel on both).
or
- the tang material around the pivot hole is half mm thinner.
To me, studying the locking mechanism is always fascinating, and I try to see the forces and torques to the mechanism as pressure being translated to rotational angle by the centre of pivot. That's how I analyze this, but YMMV.
The difference is:
- Stop pin solution will allow deeper engagement by rotating the whole blade further, making the blade tang ramp changes it's slope a little bit, giving the lockbar more room to move in. However, since the blade rotates further before stopped by stop pin, the angle of the ramp increases, against the direction of lockbar travel. This means the lockbar facing a steeper 'uphill' in the travel, and will require a stronger spring to maintain constant position during jarring impact (spine whack).
- Filing tang ramp solution making more room for lockbar to move in while at the same time maintain the same 'uphill' angle against the lockbar travel by removibg a thin layer of metal at the same angle as the original. This worked well for me who currently using weaker spring (not ideal), and has passed the spine whack test.
Both will work almost the same (negligible difference) when the changes are miniscule (almost zero). The tang ramp method might be better if the changes being more significant, i.e. lowering the tang end by half milimeter. At this point:
- the stop pin will loose about half mm of it's thickness (assuming both spot have same distance from pivot, so it requires same amount if travel on both).
or
- the tang material around the pivot hole is half mm thinner.
To me, studying the locking mechanism is always fascinating, and I try to see the forces and torques to the mechanism as pressure being translated to rotational angle by the centre of pivot. That's how I analyze this, but YMMV.
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just ordered an el01 and el02, let's see how they turn out
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