Steel Junky's - need opinions

Sounds good....drop the guard and replace with a finger choil.

No please. After all we can cut it out if nessesary, but it will be hart to make our own guard if there is no any.

Sal, can you make it the way I can screw my own handle scales - like make 3 of thet holes in the middle and 3/16" wide Tandy Leather Factory has nice Chicago screws, so anybody will be able to make scales for this knife.

How to get one?

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Hi Vassili,

Is 3/16" the "ideal" size for available Chicago screws?

I can move the holes to accomodate that request.

sal
 
I really like that profile Sal but i`d probably like to see most of those holes removed for the production pieces. It`s not that hard to drill holes afterwards if you need them .
 
I really like that profile Sal but i`d probably like to see most of those holes removed for the production pieces. It`s not that hard to drill holes afterwards if you need them .
Not everybody has the drill bits or the patience for that, hardened steel isn't fun to drill.
 
Not everybody has the drill bits or the patience for that, hardened steel isn't fun to drill.

Especially the steels people here are calling for. I live in a townhouse and have no shop space and no drill press.

That blade looks wonderfull. It reminds me of the Lil temp leaf blade, one of my all time favorites. I'm really looking foreward to these.

BTW, how difficult and expensive is it to get F2 or F8 steel? Has anybody worked with them? Joe/Raleigh
 
Thank you Sal/Kristi! Looks like good. Has anyone come forward to make handles / sheaths yet? Strictly aftermarket.

I like the holes. It will remove un-necessary weight. Plus, as others have said -- I don't have the means to drill.
 
Looks quite good, and we can make our own scales for them! The Mastiff, you're right about the blade shape! I'm pretty sure that with a bit of work, we could say hello to the Lil Temp FB:D.

Personally, I think the holes would only be an issue if you wanted to have it without scales on, and since I'll probably be putting scales on, I say it looks fine!

Just tell me the price, and I'll say whether I can make it or not (hope that I can).
 
Hi Vassili,

Is 3/16" the "ideal" size for available Chicago screws?

I can move the holes to accomodate that request.

sal

This is only Chicago screw I can find (for few years). This is why I am asking this size. If there are any other also awailable - I will be OK with that.

But holes better be made to make it easy to put scales which many probably will put to it.

May I ask for YRX7 being in this program? You are the one who made ZDP189 awailable for everyone. Can you do the same for this misteriouse low carbon, supertough, matrix high-speed steel, which never dull? Hitachi even keep composition secret...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Sal/Kristi: Thank you for doing this.

It looks very nice, I'm really happy you decided on a leaf shaped blade:thumbup:
 
That blade shape looks awesome! W00t! Please hurry up with the ZDP Caly 3 and G-10 scaled Smallfly, but w00t!

BTW, how difficult and expensive is it to get F2 or F8 steel?

Larrin Thomas said he can get some F2 is he orders an entire heat (several thousand pounds). I'm pretty sure if we each chip in two or three grand per steel (minimum 200 forumites), we can try F2, O7, and enough American and Eurasian powdersteels to satisfy any steel junky's wildest and most obscure fantasies.
 
Those prototypes look great, I can't wait to get my hands on one. It looks like it will be a greatly useful blade, something that I really look forward to trying out, especially in different steels.

Mike
 
The company that makes VG-10 also makes a steel called V-Toku1 which is fairly similar to F2, it's a high tungsten carbon steel, anyway. It would be easier for Spyderco to get V-Toku1 than F2.
 
Thanx Larrin,

As long as the program is simple and is received well, I'd be happy to try any steel that the "steel junkys" want and I can get. If we use Japanese steel, I would make them in Japan.

Regarding price, I have no idea until the run is close to finish.

sal
 
Sounds completely nutty. I like it!

This is probably not so hot for profit, but would be a great service to the community - both users and manufacturers.

Some thoughts -

1. Each steel should be heat treated as "optimal" for that particular steel type. Of course, optimal is up for debate. If the project goes long enough, it might be possible to make knives of the same material in different hardnesses. Regardless, I'd be interested in how the steel would perform in a manufactured hardness, which wouldn't be the same for everything.

2. Configure the handle for cord-wrap, or two simple holes that could be used for Becker-style handles. Simple handles could be mass-produced or another item for the secondary market. Make handle holes as simple as possible to reduce manufacturing costs.

Edit - Just looked at the blank. I like the general blade shape, but I think the handle has too many holes. Minimize it to 2 holes for Chicago screws. Maybe three or four if absolutely necessary for a cord wrap. What hole pattern does, say, Strider or Ek use for cord wraps? Actually Ek may be a good model - anybody know if the same hole pattern was used for their 3-screw/scales and cord wrap handles? Reducing the holes saves time and money. Besides, if it's too convenient, then people may start snapping these up for regular use ;)
I also agree that the guard should be a bit smaller, more in line with the edge. That front finger pocket is deep enough to provide a functional guard. Don't add a seperate choil. (end edit)


3. I'd prefer "blind" blades with Cliff's A, B, C, D scheme. The codes could easily be available to people who wanted them. A compromise would be to put the steel type on the handle, where it would be covered up by the handle material.

4. Blade size and design will have a big effect on what types of tests can be done. For example, you can't really chop with a 3" blade. I'm not advocating for a huge chopper design, but a small slicing pattern is going to favor harder steels. I'd like to see a somewhat thicker blade that can be beaten a bit to test resistance to chipping, etc.

5. Offer a subscription program for these. I'd rather pay for the year, or have a credit card on file, or something that ensures I don't have to scrounge around for every single blade, and don't have to remember to submit an order.

6. I know they don't see much use in modern folders, but non-stainless steels should be included at some point - 52100, 01, etc. Hitachi blue and white would be great, but may not be practical. Maybe use a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of normal production steels to more esoteric stuff.
 
Hi Larrin, Aichi also makes a hi-tungsten steel called AUS-8W, we used it on a sashimi knife several years ago.

Sounds completely nutty. I like it!

This is probably not so hot for profit, but would be a great service to the community - both users and manufacturers.

Some thoughts -

1. Each steel should be heat treated as "optimal" for that particular steel type. Of course, optimal is up for debate. If the project goes long enough, it might be possible to make knives of the same material in different hardnesses. Regardless, I'd be interested in how the steel would perform in a manufactured hardness, which wouldn't be the same for everything.

2. Configure the handle for cord-wrap, or two simple holes that could be used for Becker-style handles. Simple handles could be mass-produced or another item for the secondary market. Make handle holes as simple as possible to reduce manufacturing costs.

3. I'd prefer "blind" blades with Cliff's A, B, C, D scheme. The codes could easily be available to people who wanted them. A compromise would be to put the steel type on the handle, where it would be covered up by the handle material.

4. Blade size and design will have a big effect on what types of tests can be done. For example, you can't really chop with a 3" blade. I'm not advocating for a huge chopper design, but a small slicing pattern is going to favor harder steels. I'd like to see a somewhat thicker blade that can be beaten a bit to test resistance to chipping, etc.

5. Offer a subscription program for these. I'd rather pay for the year, or have a credit card on file, or something that ensures I don't have to scrounge around for every single blade, and don't have to remember to submit an order.

6. I know they don't see much use in modern folders, but non-stainless steels should be included at some point - 52100, 01, etc. Hitachi blue and white would be great, but may not be practical. Maybe use a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio of normal production steels to more esoteric stuff.

Hi Tohatchi,

1. That's the plan.

2. That's the plan. I think I'll run a row of 3/16" holes along the top, middle and bottom. with lightening holes filling in. This permits screws, cord wrap, etc.

3. I'll be working with Cliff on his A,B,C project. On the regular pieces, the plan for engraving is to put Spyderco and steel type on the ricasso or blade, front side. Country of origin on the back side

4. The design shown above is 3.5" blade. Thickness is planned for .125 (3mm). Other blade designs or thickness would be another project.

5. We're still taking opinions and suggestions on the "program".

6. 52100 is planned for the first run. Any steel is an option, as long as we have access to it. Heck, I'd like to do a run in Devin's damascus.

sal
 
3. I'll be working with Cliff on his A,B,C project. On the regular pieces, the plan for engraving is to put Spyderco and steel type on the ricasso or blade, front side. Country of origin on the back side

Please also put the "Sal Glesser" logo on the blade as well.
 
Heck, I'd like to do a run in Devin's damascus.

sal

Definitely Seconded!

Edit: Sal, I have to know, is this a FB version of the Lil' Temp II? It just seems to me that the blade shape and grind, the guard, the way the handle would sit in the hand all says "Lil' Temp II".
 
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