- Joined
- Aug 17, 2014
- Messages
- 4,914
True, and to be fair, it does have its trade offs as it won't be anywhere near as durable under hard use as the xm18... This would be a dedicated slicer!
That's why we gotta have both!
True, and to be fair, it does have its trade offs as it won't be anywhere near as durable under hard use as the xm18... This would be a dedicated slicer!
Josh, 1) Beautiful work on the HHT4 ---> And #2) Do your remeber THIS regrind...and creating this masterpiece out of a stock, Elmax 0562?! It arrived in today's mail. Bought it from a member who had you do the transformational work on it. MAN do I love what you did with this, every millimeter of this blade. Wow. You got that primary down SO thin & everything (swedge, swail, etc.) perfectly symmetrical. I did my usual take down, clean out, re-lube, set lock bar tension where I like it and touch up the secondary just a bit (as it was used a little). This thing slices like crazy, functions like a total dream and is, to my eye, a useable work of art. So glad to own it. This one's going to get some major pocket time over the next decade or two! Josh, you are an amazingly talented craftsman/artist. I bow on bended knee to thee.
Im in love with the idea of a mirror Edge but sadly I can't agree to the 50-60 (shot in the dark) inclusive degrees you guys seem to put on some of your knives just so you can see for instance the WHOLE penny lol. I like a nice thin bevel. I usually stick between 36-40 degrees inclusive.
Here's my new G3 after about 90 mins of love. (Stopped at 1000 grit then stropped)
Hmm yah it just looks like your bevel is so much wider than mine ..Most of the ones you see in mine and Scrim's posts are at 30° inclusive or less... Not 50-60
While it sounds like you are referring to the thinness of the edge from a side view, that is actually deceptive to the eye and not what's really going on with the edge... When I refer to thickness of the edge I'm referring to measuring the thickness at the "shoulders" (where the edge transitions into the grind) of the edge.
So the edges on knives such as the hinderer above are super wide, it's because they are ground really thick in the factory. When you reprofile a factory edge, while it looks wider from the side view it has actually thinned the edge angle out and will cut FAR better than the factory edge. But that's why I recommend the best of both worlds... A reground blade so you have a thin grind and thin edge
Great edge btw!
Hmm yah it just looks like your bevel is so much wider than mine ..
Then again I'm sure you're using some professional camera with a 500 dollar lens to capture your pictures..all I'm working with is a iPhone 7 with Lightroom lol.
But thanks !
Yes it definitely is wider no arguing that!
No professional camera... Just my Google Pixel XL and a light box!
Just an iphone 7 guy here.
lighting is everythingWell damn..I'm not sure how your pictures look so much better than mine ..must be my lighting lol.
Bevel get wider if you lower the angle of sharpening and vise versaHmm yah it just looks like your bevel is so much wider than mine ..
Then again I'm sure you're using some professional camera with a 500 dollar lens to capture your pictures..all I'm working with is a iPhone 7 with Lightroom lol.
But thanks !