Survival/Bushcraft/camp hard work blade. Too much HRC?

I don't know this company but looked at their website, wandertactical.com. They list the d2 as being cryo'd and there is some warranty language to read. If it's the design you like the most, it may turn out to be a great blade and perfect for what you need. I really don't know. I also don't know what other steels they have available, the website only references their d2. Maybe if that's what they say they do best, and you want their design, just go with it. (I would prefer the Lionsteel as well between the two though.)

My only suggestion is still the Skrama :D They make it in a stainless 12c27 equivalent if corrosion resistance is important, but I don't see a restock estimate on those yet. Maybe at that price point, who cares if the carbon gets some rust/patina? I live ~600 miles from an ocean though, so you may have different needs. The point in the suggestion is that they're relatively cheap and come with a nice thin edge really made to work. You can use it hard and see if/how it fails and use that information to inform what you look for in the next purchase. :)
I don't understand sorry, u mean that i can tell him to cryo the D2?

I will buy also the Skrama, is very economic and i can see if it fails.
 
Chumaman is making some good points on the handles in my opinion, but definitely personal preference is at play there. I've been sanding down a lot of g10 and micarta lately, rounding the edges on folders and fixed blades to make them smoother and eliminate hot spots.

Love the way this feels in hand now. May have given up some grip, but to me it's worth it. :thumbup:

2ln8r48.jpg
 
My only suggestion is still the Skrama :D They make it in a stainless 12c27 equivalent if corrosion resistance is important, but I don't see a restock estimate on those yet. Maybe at that price point, who cares if the carbon gets some rust/patina? I live ~600 miles from an ocean though, so you may have different needs. The point in the suggestion is that they're relatively cheap and come with a nice thin edge really made to work. You can use it hard and see if/how it fails and use that information to inform what you look for in the next purchase. :)

Skarama - Carbon steel 80CrV2, 59 HRC is not equivalent to 12C27 stainless...but is very good knife :thumbup:
 
Skarama - Carbon steel 80CrV2, 59 HRC is not equivalent to 12C27 stainless...but is very good knife :thumbup:

Sorry, I meant they make both, carbon and stainless, not saying that the two steels are directly equivalent. I don't want to link to a non bf-affiliated dealer, but here is the description:

"Blade material: 4110 Stainless steel (X55CrMo14), 57 HRC. Equivalent to Sandviks 12C27."
 
Sorry, I meant they make both, carbon and stainless, not saying that the two steels are directly equivalent. I don't want to link to a non bf-affiliated dealer, but here is the description:

"Blade material: 4110 Stainless steel (X55CrMo14), 57 HRC. Equivalent to Sandviks 12C27."

sorry I don't know that....4110 is german stainless but not good as 12c27
 
With proper ht, Sleipner is more corrosion resistant than D2. Simple deduction - coated sleipner is better in corrosion resistant. Lousy ht (either steel) would tied Cr in large/clump weak carbide structure (along with Mo), which greatly reduce % of free Cr for passivation <= maybe this is the case where blade rust easily. Pitting has more to do with bad microstructure of the matrix. Coating will wear/scratch off, therefore after some use whatever inherit/intrinsic corrosion resistant of the blade will be the eventual level of corrosion resistant.

If a company/maker nailed/got great ht for D2, then they wouldn't offer 59/60rc knives because that would be too soft/weak, thus easily roll/dent/ripple. Read fine print and look/search for good/bad evidences and track record (if well established). Yep, be skeptical and demand tool to serves you - not the other way around.

In practice/field - how your new knife will performs in the long term, depend on a few skills: sharpening; usage technique; understand tool limitations.

Thank you for your advice, but still I will follow what you said to me and i will speak with WT to see if they can use those steels that you think best, and what they think about it.

Thanks, i did not know this, so i could play it safe with Sleipner, that is more corrosion resistant than D2.
But i don't understand this part :"And somehow you are ready to accept a coated D2 as acceptable".
Thanks again and sorry for the trouble mate :D
 
sorry I don't know that....4110 is german stainless but not good as 12c27

I haven't really come across 4110 before, but I can see why they referenced similarity to the Sandvik based on the carbon content and it appears to be generally suitable for the knife. I wanted to get one of the stainless to try as well but didn't manage to catch them in stock by the time I tried to put together another order.
 
Hey Staind97 - i know english is not your 1st language so i want to make sure my response is appropriate!

Thanks to think so too as well, but why the model with the false edge and not the others?
I was originally thinking that particular model matched more of your criteria than any of the other knives. Of the knives available on the site you referenced, i really like this one;
the wander-tactical lynx though i do not think it is long enough for what you said you want.

Here is a photo of my own personal field knife which i designed 100% based on my own 30+ years of wilderness experience and teaching and was made for me as a gift from a custom knife maker who no longer posts here:

TruthKnifeEX.jpg


It is made from O1 tool steel and is .25 inch (6.35mm) thick, over all is 11 inches/27.94cm long, blade is 6 inches/15.24cm long (handle is 12.7cm long) and blade is 2 inches/5cm wide.

Also, i simply do not like knives with rope or cord for a handle. In my professional opinion, cordage is not a good material for a knife handle.

I also personally do not like the Takeshi knife design where the blade has little mass, but that is a personal preference. :barf:

Much like i prefer pizza from Sicily compared to pizza i have had in Venice (yes, i have been to both places) - personal preference.

Is annoying on the field, u can't use the edge to spin in precision work on the wood.
In the field, you will not usually need to do "precision work". Things like traps, drag snares, fire making, shelter making do not require fine, precision work. If you are going to limit yourself to only 1 knife you must accept the compromises of only 1 knife.

For example, when working on your auto you do not use just one wrench - or even just a "wrench" - you will also use pliers, screw drivers, etc.

How a false edge can be useless in batoning? And chew it up after only a few strikes if the false edge is up, and i just hit it with a piece of wood?
A false edge means the the spine of the knife is almost sharp. If you beat on a piece of wood (the baton in this example) with something that is almost sharp it (the baton) will become damaged quickly. It is important to remember that even something as simple as a baton is a tool in the field.

And also, the false edge don't makes knife more breakable?
In theory a false edge may not be as strong as a full spine - that is true. However, the knife should be strong enough that the small difference in strength will not matter in real world situations.

I hope my response is appropriate to your reply!
 
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Chumaman is making some good points on the handles in my opinion, but definitely personal preference is at play there. I've been sanding down a lot of g10 and micarta lately, rounding the edges on folders and fixed blades to make them smoother and eliminate hot spots.

Love the way this feels in hand now. May have given up some grip, but to me it's worth it. :thumbup:

2ln8r48.jpg

Such a beautiful knife, it's a busse?
One knife like this would be great for me :D
 
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With proper ht, Sleipner is more corrosion resistant than D2. Simple deduction - coated sleipner is better in corrosion resistant. Lousy ht (either steel) would tied Cr in large/clump weak carbide structure (along with Mo), which greatly reduce % of free Cr for passivation <= maybe this is the case where blade rust easily. Pitting has more to do with bad microstructure of the matrix. Coating will wear/scratch off, therefore after some use whatever inherit/intrinsic corrosion resistant of the blade will be the eventual level of corrosion resistant.

If a company/maker nailed/got great ht for D2, then they wouldn't offer 59/60rc knives because that would be too soft/weak, thus easily roll/dent/ripple. Read fine print and look/search for good/bad evidences and track record (if well established). Yep, be skeptical and demand tool to serves you - not the other way around.

In practice/field - how your new knife will performs in the long term, depend on a few skills: sharpening; usage technique; understand tool limitations.

Thanks for your advices, i understand more or less everything, except for this part :"If a company/maker nailed/got great ht for D2, then they wouldn't offer 59/60rc knives because that would be too soft/weak, thus easily roll/dent/ripple. Read fine print and look/search for good/bad evidences and track record (if well established). Yep, be skeptical and demand tool to serves you - not the other way around."
Really sorry.
 
@fmajor007 :
Very very thanks for your exceptional answer.
I really like ur knife; perfect geometry and dimension!
And why did you choose steel O1?

I appreciate detailed answers, but i really don't understand this part :"with something that is almost sharp it (the baton) will become damaged quickly."
I use the edge of the knife too beat a piece of wood (that is the part that u call "baton" or i'm wrong?), but i don't understand the said part, i mean, i know what those words mean, but I do not understand the meaning. Really sorry mate!

"In theory a false edge may not be as strong as a full spine - that is true. However, the knife should be strong enough that the small difference in strength will not matter in real world situations."
Yeah as i thought.

"I hope my response is appropriate to your reply!"
Sure man, and sorry again for the inconvenience.
P.S Exept for the little blade mass, u like Takeshi saji knife more or less than WT?
 
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P.S I found this knife, a McKnees camp knife, i really like the geometry and dimension, and it's "similar" to Dimodorphe, i really like to know it's a valid alternative.
http://imgur.com/IHH9uMW
It's of @shaving sharp's, a gold member of this forum.

I go to the site to see the specs, and i was a little disappointed, it's made by 1095.
http://forthenrycustomknives.com/product/mcnees-custom-knives-beast/
P.S I really like also the Gossman Big Boar Tuskers, but it's too expensive for me.

However much interest me the knife that has been posted by inkynate.
 
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What about Bravo 2 CPM 3V ?
https://www.knivesshipfree.com/bark-river-knives-bravo-2-cpm-3v/
This 254$.
CPM 3V @ 59-61RC it's better than D2 of WT?

There is a review : http://www.hic-sunt-leones.info/prove-e-recensioni/wander-tactical-dimorphodon/
In some pic, we can see the difference whit knife like Busse hell razor SE 2008, molletta carthago, Trc apocalypse in m390, B.K. Johnson camp knife, Tops tex creek xl, E.R. Dobermann IV, Ferhman Final Judgement satin.

I will write at this guy to ask some question.
But i'm actually undecided by :
-Lionsteel M7 : Sleipner 60/61HRC - 240 €
-Trc Apocalypse l: M390 59-60 HRC (heat/cryo-treated) - 340 € [100 euros more than M7..]
-Wander tactical Dimorphodon : D2 at 59/60HRC (cryo-treated) - 320 €
-Bark river Bravo 2 : CPM 3V 59-61 HRC - 250€

And i think that's all.. Or maybe i'm forgetting something. HellRazor Busse would be perfect, but, where i can found one?
 
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Anything over $250, I would go custom and get exactly what you want.
 
With proper ht, Sleipner is more corrosion resistant than D2. Simple deduction - coated sleipner is better in corrosion resistant. Lousy ht (either steel) would tied Cr in large/clump weak carbide structure (along with Mo), which greatly reduce % of free Cr for passivation <= maybe this is the case where blade rust easily. Pitting has more to do with bad microstructure of the matrix. Coating will wear/scratch off, therefore after some use whatever inherit/intrinsic corrosion resistant of the blade will be the eventual level of corrosion resistant.

If a company/maker nailed/got great ht for D2, then they wouldn't offer 59/60rc knives because that would be too soft/weak, thus easily roll/dent/ripple. Read fine print and look/search for good/bad evidences and track record (if well established). Yep, be skeptical and demand tool to serves you - not the other way around.

In practice/field - how your new knife will performs in the long term, depend on a few skills: sharpening; usage technique; understand tool limitations.

Wow... since when 59-60 is too soft/weak? Dozier HT their D2 to 60RC so would you said his D2 is inferior too?

The biggest name semi-custom brand here who has high quality custom HT furnace with digital control electrical molten salt pot and L2N dewar HT his D2 to 59-60 and his D2 sprang almost every commercial brand powdered steel in robe cutting test including Elmax and M390. Only some Helle and Dozeir knife in D2 that are on par with his D2.

I always think judging steel just from HRC is kind of inadvisable.
 
Wow... since when 59-60 is too soft/weak? Dozier HT their D2 to 60RC so would you said his D2 is inferior too?

The biggest name semi-custom brand here who has high quality custom HT furnace with digital control electrical molten salt pot and L2N dewar HT his D2 to 59-60 and his D2 sprang almost every commercial brand powdered steel in robe cutting test including Elmax and M390. Only some Helle and Dozeir knife in D2 that are on par with his D2.

I always think judging steel just from HRC is kind of inadvisable.

Thanks for what u say.
 
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