The Bears' Den--Shirogorov Showcase

Just out of curiosity how diff is it to get ahold of a full custom. Not that i can afford


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
coiledwire said:
I'm hoping to own 1 custom shiro at some point. But seeing the recent auctioned ones going for 11.5k and 13k, that might be a long wait for me.

What is your most favorite(s) Shiros to date? I'm sure you have some outstanding customs in your collection. 👍
Click to expand...

Even given what I've paid for some of my watches and even my footwear those prices are what in my opinion I would consider insane for a knife.
 
Cleaned the 95T last night and decided to play with lube :D Had oil in it before and it got gritty pretty quick. I run grease in all my guns and had a sample of Frog Lube in the safe so decided to give it a go. So far, extremely impressed. Smoother than with oil, will just have to wait it out and see if it gets gritty within a week like the oil. I carry this blade every day and use it at work so it sees its fair share of dust/dirt/junk. Its also possible I am just figuring out the correct torque on the pivot screw and may have had it slightly too tight originally...but I do feel a noticeable difference with the grease.
Short action video for your viewing pleasure!
[video]https://youtu.be/7bPIIRB8Zhg[/video]
 
So far I've only had my F3 Python apart, and not initially to improve the action, but to work on the lock-stick issues I've noted over the past few pages. I know that the previous owner of my knife had it apart as there are photos of it torn down back in the early pages of the Den. I had no grittiness in the knife at any point, but did feel it was a tad sluggish in closing. I initially found some sort of fairly heavy, darkish lube in it that was more viscous than grease but heavier than any regular oil which I replaced with W10 NanoOil.

More recently, as I worked on and reduced the lock-stick issues, I also polished the bearing chases, blade tang interface, and bearing retainer rings. This time I reassembled with W85 Nano. The action is much freer now and I haven't picked up any grittiness along the way, although she's been carried maybe two-three days since and not subjected to any more dirt than lives in my pocket.

As to my 95T, it's not been taken apart and was purchased brand-new, so it's stock in every way except for a SharpMaker touch-up. That knife has been carried and used quite a bit, both casually and in carpenter-work environments and has picked up no grittiness whatsoever. It closes under its own weight and seems to operate more freely, once broken in, than does 89's in his vid. No flies on your Turtle's action, though, Stoker.

I've often wondered about grease in ball-bearing knives as it seems to me to just gunk them up. I've been very pleased with the performance of NanoOil in all my knives, though I've lately been using Tri-Flow in those knives of mine with Teflon washers.
 
I had my 95T apart because occasionally the lockbar would move in and out of the lock position sorta wiggle in btw and was pissing me off. Disassembled and slightly increased the detend now it fires like a rocket better than any Shior i have owned. It doesnt fall freely though needs just a tad bit of shaking the handle for it to close. But if i press the lockbar to unlock it at the bottom portion and hold it there thr blades is like a guillotine.

Now i cannot wait till i get my ceramic bearings in the mail. Will replace my 95T and F3 to see how good it is. The F95 CF i havent disassembled and will leave it as such.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ChazzyP said:
So far I've only had my F3 Python apart, and not initially to improve the action, but to work on the lock-stick issues I've noted over the past few pages. I know that the previous owner of my knife had it apart as there are photos of it torn down back in the early pages of the Den. I had no grittiness in the knife at any point, but did feel it was a tad sluggish in closing. I initially found some sort of fairly heavy, darkish lube in it that was more viscous than grease but heavier than any regular oil which I replaced with W10 NanoOil.

More recently, as I worked on and reduced the lock-stick issues, I also polished the bearing chases, blade tang interface, and bearing retainer rings. This time I reassembled with W85 Nano. The action is much freer now and I haven't picked up any grittiness along the way, although she's been carried maybe two-three days since and not subjected to any more dirt than lives in my pocket.

As to my 95T, it's not been taken apart and was purchased brand-new, so it's stock in every way except for a SharpMaker touch-up. That knife has been carried and used quite a bit, both casually and in carpenter-work environments and has picked up no grittiness whatsoever. It closes under its own weight and seems to operate more freely, once broken in, than does 89's in his vid. No flies on your Turtle's action, though, Stoker.

I've often wondered about grease in ball-bearing knives as it seems to me to just gunk them up. I've been very pleased with the performance of NanoOil in all my knives, though I've lately been using Tri-Flow in those knives of mine with Teflon washers.
Click to expand...

Hey no worries! I did pack quite a bit of grease in there and will be using less next time. I prefer a smoother drop vs a fast "loose" feeling drop anyway so that's what I was aiming for. Pretty much the same as Den showed earlier with his 111 and grease mix. Hard to tell with the video and background but I was trying to show how little help it needed to fall through the range of motion. Was trying to follow the blade as it came down so I guess it does seem I am helping it close more than I really am. Anyway, useless rambling lol. I love it so if the grease doesn't attract too much grit and ruin the action quickly I will stick with it.
 
Since I heard it mentioned a few times now, what is meant by "polishing the bearing race"?

Does that imply using a dremmel with a buffing wheel and some light compound? Or some other method? I know what on the knife is being talked about, just not clear on the method used.
 
coiledwire said:
Since I heard it mentioned a few times now, what is meant by "polishing the bearing race"?

Does that imply using a dremmel with a buffing wheel and some light compound? Or some other method? I know what on the knife is being talked about, just not clear on the method used.
Click to expand...

"Using a dremmel with a buffing wheel and some light compound" ...is exactly how I do it.
 
Can't let this thread die out, one of my favorites!

Lost the detent on my F-95 nudist on Friday evening. Anybody else been in the same predicament? I'm guessing I'd send the lock side of the knife in to be fitted with a new detent, or would I need to send the whole thing?

Not sure how it popped out or what happened. One moment it was perfect, next time I went to flip... nada zip, nil. Haven't found the ball, nor am I looking for it. Haha

Any advice would be great, I plan on getting in contact with shirogorov some time in the coming week. Only been a couple of days and I miss carrying it. Don't know what to take to work tmw.
 
Im not sure if the detend ball is same size as bearing balls but once u know the size i hear its not too diff to replace


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thin-Slice said:
Im not sure if the detend ball is same size as bearing balls but once u know the size i hear its not too diff to replace


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You talking diy? That would be awesome, I really don't want to send it across the world for a tiny part. I will if I have to though, obviously.
 
marcus52AR said:
You talking diy? That would be awesome, I really don't want to send it across the world for a tiny part. I will if I have to though, obviously.
Click to expand...

Look at previous page of this thread look up a member PURPLEDC every time i asked a question in a separate thread about Shiros he seemed to know. Im sure there are others but thats one i know of. U can start ur own thread about the detend ball ppl here are very helpful


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
marcus52AR said:
You talking diy? That would be awesome, I really don't want to send it across the world for a tiny part. I will if I have to though, obviously.
Click to expand...
I believe the bearing size has been confirmed at 1.5mm. However, I don't know if the detent ball is the same. Also, I don't know if the method of retention is easy to reproduce.

Sounds like a good DIY project you volunteered for! Let us know how it goes!
 
Actually, too long without pics. Thread needs moar pics.

Ue5WzFa.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top