The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
I have both of them and Hati is "a step behind" in terms of blade shape. It was the 1st production model to incorporate a long-awaited CPS (Captured Pivot System) feature -- but for the pivot only, the rear screw is not captured unlike it is on newer models. Hati might be updated later this year or in 2025.... or a more obtainable production Shiro F95 zero or the Hati. Both sitting on R1 temping me to pull the trigger.
Disassembling is not your only option -- a plenty of dish soap and hot water might be enough for cleaning, just make sure to dry it thoroughly (using air compressor for instance).Taking a Shiro apart to clean the factory grease out is a little scary to me
Yes, but it's rather expensive ($300+). Or you could make your own bits from an old brass key or any other piece of soft metal of appropriate shape. Or use a folded plastic card as an expendable tool.Is there a special tool to take a Shiro apart?
I've been shopping for a new modern knife for several months. I sold my modern customs 7 or 8 years ago as I was more into vintage slip joints. Now that I have a big a$$ pile of awesome old slip joints I'm gravitating back to modern. As you know, there's an overwhelming amount of options. I've narrowed down my choices to a Skiff fugitive, which I missed the drop on a couple weeks ago, or a more obtainable production Shiro F95 zero or the Hati. Both sitting on R1 temping me to pull the trigger. Taking a Shiro apart to clean the factory grease out is a little scary to me as I was struggling to swap pocket clips on a Spyderco military just recently, those tiny little screws were frustrating at best. Is there a special tool to take a Shiro apart? Looks like a screw driver would be a good way to scratch it up badly. Does the flipping action drastically improve with cleaning the factory grease out? Or will the difference be barely noticeable? Based on the reviews I've watched they appear to flip great right out of the box.
Thanks in advance for any comments![]()
Thank you! I appreciate the informationI have both of them and Hati is "a step behind" in terms of blade shape. It was the 1st production model to incorporate a long-awaited CPS (Captured Pivot System) feature -- but for the pivot only, the rear screw is not captured unlike it is on newer models. Hati might be updated later this year or in 2025.
If I had to choose one to buy soon -- I'd prefer Zero 2024. It's laconic, but not boring and up to date. But your preferences and priorities may vary
Disassembling is not your only option -- a plenty of dish soap and hot water might be enough for cleaning, just make sure to dry it thoroughly (using air compressor for instance).
Yes, but it's rather expensive ($300+). Or you could make your own bits from an old brass key or any other piece of soft metal of appropriate shape. Or use a folded plastic card as an expendable tool.
Not trying to discourage you because Shiros are awesome, but if you're struggling with Spyderco clip screws, Shiro bearings are going to be a nightmare for you. The balls are not captured. Once you get the screws out, you have in the ballpark of 30 tiny (1.5mm) balls to keep track of, clean, lubricate, and drop back into place. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't call it hard, but it requires extreme care and if vision/dexterity causes you to struggle with clip screws it might be quite the challenge.
Thanks for the extra info, it is surprising indeed.
But are you sure that your Quantum Ursus was made in 2019?
According to the maker's website an affordable series of Quantum model was announced on 2021-12-09 as Quantum Ursus and it was offered with wood inlays only (hence NL suffix) at first, G10 versions appeared a few months later.
I wonder if your knife is a special edition, made for specific US dealer with exclusive pattern on the scales.
The 1st generation of production Quantum did have a ramp, according to the photo from the official announcement (dated 2020-03-21) -- probably it is the 1st production model (top-tier, but nonetheless) to incorporate the feature:
I use a work sharp pro, and im very pleased with the results. But i dont pretend im a good freehand sharpener (im not.. at all).Congrats on the new Bear--I like my fullered M390 111 CF a lot. Most of my Shiro's have come through really close to 20° per side but the 111 came through brand new at around 22-23° which rather displeased me for cutting ability.
I decided after a while to re-profile on the other side of 20 and went with an edge in the 17-18° range. I did that on my EdgePro before I had my diamond Matrix stones and it took a while to get what I wanted on its M390, but it came out very nicely and became a much scarier sharp cutter. It's definitely broader than your typical ultra-narrow Shiro edge, but their blades are so thin BTE that it's not objectionable to these eyes.
I didn't remember if I put a 20° micro-bevel on it or not so I just got it out to check. No micro-bevel and I notice it's developed a little burr in a couple areas and is very slightly chippy in others, though still pretty damn sharp for not being attended to for some time. A few swipes on the fines and ultra-fines at 20° in the morning will add just a taste of micro-bevel and straighten things right out.
Putting a Shiro on a Work Sharp? You're a braver man than I, but maybe you're just real good with that device.
Any chance i can get a link to the bushings? I love my little machine, but i want badly to up my game on it. Ive looked for upgrades for it, and not finding muchI really need to break out my newer WorkSharp Professional (upgrade from precision adjust), install the new brass bushings on the slider, and give it a whirl.
I have both of them and Hati is "a step behind" in terms of blade shape. It was the 1st production model to incorporate a long-awaited CPS (Captured Pivot System) feature -- but for the pivot only, the rear screw is not captured unlike it is on newer models. Hati might be updated later this year or in 2025.
If I had to choose one to buy soon -- I'd prefer Zero 2024. It's laconic, but not boring and up to date. But your preferences and priorities may vary
Disassembling is not your only option -- a plenty of dish soap and hot water might be enough for cleaning, just make sure to dry it thoroughly (using air compressor for instance).
Yes, but it's rather expensive ($300+). Or you could make your own bits from an old brass key or any other piece of soft metal of appropriate shape. Or use a folded plastic card as an expendable tool.
rockman0 ,
The Shiro F95 and Hati are both great knives and would be excellent choices. My two of the former (bought new and newish) and one latter (used, in tough shape) are older models. None of my (currently 8) Shiros were drop shut when acquired--only my since-sold Quantum Ursus NL was. Since being tuned up and breaking in, my re-lubed F95's, 111, and NeOn all drop shut, my F3 is close, the Tabargan with sliding bar lock doesn't count, and the Hati on washers and Russian Dr Death do not. However, all those knives have much freer and quicker flipping action after getting the grease out, though none but the Hati were anything but fine to begin with. Those here with newer Gen knives could speak better regarding their action out of the box.
As to tools, Shiro makes both pen and dedicated driver tools which cost as much as a high quality knife, Josh at REK makes dedicated Shiro bits, and Bill at Jekyll to Hyde makes a nice aluminum tool. I have the JtoH tool and a modest Shiro "Hedgehog" tool which I believe is no longer in production. Frankly, well-fitting coins work just fine on a Shiro's PacMan screws and I frequently use an appropriately-sized common screwdriver bit shrouded with electrical tape.
Dis- and re-assembling a Shiro takes a bit of patience and care. The part that most complainers cite is dealing with the loose bearings, both ball and roller, which run in open-sided cages. One needs to exercise care when removing and replacing those and to protect them while working on the knife. I work on a towel and have a small condiment dish (like from a Chinese restaurant) that I pour alcohol into and drop the bearings, cages, and underlay washers into for both cleaning and safe-keeping. I handle all those parts with a lightly sprung, nylon-tipped tweezer to avoid over-gripping and having a bearing shoot across the room. I avoid any magnetic tools so the bearings don't pick up a charge, complicating getting them back into place.
I don't mean to make this sound too daunting--just laying it out for you. I actually enjoy the fineness and finesse of the work and consider it good training/therapy for the diminished vision and progression of my essential tremor that have accompanied my advancing years.
ChazzyP Thank you for the detailed explanation of cleaning. That helps. My biggest struggle with the Spyderco was i didn't have a magnetic tip to steady the screws, I was putting on a Lynch NW deep carry clip and trying to guide the screw through the clip's hole to access the top screw hole was a challenge. With the nylon tweezers I think I can manage the bearings just fine. I'm 66 and retired, my hands are steady but my vision isn't what it used to be. At worst I'll need borrow my wife's magnifier for her knitting projects. I can devise my own non scratch tools base on your suggestions
![]()
Any chance i can get a link to the bushings? I love my little machine, but i want badly to up my game on it. Ive looked for upgrades for it, and not finding much
New knife day x2, and an updated collection pic! I have another lee kickstop in the mail too.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Meanwhile there's something to hunt tomorrow...Here's a teaser from social media, posted by the maker with the following comment:
"Very soon (at 1pm PST tomorrow for our international collectors, to be exact)"
I really hope it's Astrum FP.
Oh, yeah!.. I desperately want one as an EDC -- a 100×3 mm MagnaCut blade might be very interesting. The scales texturing is relatively simpler (compared to Astrum CD), but obviously more grippy than production Stellar.
Holy smokes!! That’s one hell of a collection.Fixed it for you
![]()
![]()
![]()
Shame they seem to have gotten days confused or something came up and no announcement.
That fine, fluted milling on the blade choil chamfers is interesting, though somewhat curious. I can't think of any practical reason for its inclusion, such as traction, as one can't get a finger in there to choke up on the handle as the Zero's choil looks quite the same size as those on my F95R and TurtIe. I don't know that it provides anything much aesthetically either, though it does somewhat echo the fine milling on the handle slabs.
Phew.. I managed to snatch one!..
The good news -- you may expect ~50 knives for the US market.
The bad news -- table price might be somewhere between production and CD. At least in Russia it was 27% more expensive than production Stellar.
But if you want a 100mm Shiro slicer in MagnaCut, I believe it's worth the money.
Good luck to everyony interested in this long and slim FP.