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Got the parts cut and prepped. Too late to weld tonight. Neighbors will think I'm tweaked haha.
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The Club and Improvised weapons thread (Post your Handy work!)
- Thread starter Edwood7
- Start date
Got the parts cut and prepped. Too late to weld tonight. Neighbors will think I'm tweaked haha.
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- Jul 12, 2016
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- 33
Danish oil or tung oil give a smooth finish. Of course you must sand the cat "P" outta the staff, working toward the finest grit, and then sand a few hours more. Once properly sanded begin applying the oil with a rag ( rags are combustible so soak the used ones in a container of water). Let dry for a day or two, and then buff it smooth with 0000 steel wool. Repeat several times, always buffing with the 4 ott, after a couple weeks it shines. Wax if desired and done.
Square_peg
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Even the so-called high carbon spikes can't truly be hardened. But it's a fun exercise and the knife can still be useful.
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Yup, either as letter opener or a stabby thing 😝
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The "High Carbon" railroad spikes have a maximum allowed carbon content of 0.30%. This makes it essentially A36, or at least very similar, as A36 has a Carbon range of 0.25% to 0.29%. A chart I found a while back lists the break down of A36 usage. The thinner stock has only a trace of manganese, where the thicker stocks vary between .8% and 1.2%
3/4" and under - 0.25%
Over 3/4" to 1-1/2" - 0.25%
Over 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" - 0.26%
Over 2-1/2" to 4" - 0.27%
Over 4" - 0.29%
A36 is called "mild steel" and is usually what the steel billets at Lowes or Home Depot are. The lower carbon content prevents brittleness. A statement I saw a while back on the internet about the subject said that the railroads want steel that bends, not breaks. "A bent spike will still hold rails. A broken spike will not." Or words to that effect.
I use a lot of A36 for prototyping my knives. It's a lot cheaper than any "real knife steel" and I can figure out balance points, overall weight, tang/handle thickness, etc. Some folks can figure that stuff out with mathematical equations, but not me. I need to hold it in my hands and make determinations and changes by hand/eyeball.
The "low carbon" railroad spikes have a maximum allowed carbon content of 0.12% carbon, so it's really soft.
3/4" and under - 0.25%
Over 3/4" to 1-1/2" - 0.25%
Over 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" - 0.26%
Over 2-1/2" to 4" - 0.27%
Over 4" - 0.29%
A36 is called "mild steel" and is usually what the steel billets at Lowes or Home Depot are. The lower carbon content prevents brittleness. A statement I saw a while back on the internet about the subject said that the railroads want steel that bends, not breaks. "A bent spike will still hold rails. A broken spike will not." Or words to that effect.
I use a lot of A36 for prototyping my knives. It's a lot cheaper than any "real knife steel" and I can figure out balance points, overall weight, tang/handle thickness, etc. Some folks can figure that stuff out with mathematical equations, but not me.
I need to hold it in my hands and make determinations and changes by hand/eyeball.The "low carbon" railroad spikes have a maximum allowed carbon content of 0.12% carbon, so it's really soft.
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- 1,360
I made a compact wrench!
Square_peg
Gold Member
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Very handy multi-tool, Johnny.
I made a compact wrench!
Alright. That's hilarious.
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- Aug 6, 2006
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The best thing is, those are all craftsman wrenches are covered by the warranty. (I'm gonna bring back the chopped wrenches.)
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- Apr 2, 2011
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I had a friend who would take a torch and bend them to fit in to where he was working, get done with the project, and bring the bent one back and exchange it in store for a new one
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- Sep 15, 2013
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These in the pics have been widely used, and carried during years, did them when I was younger, had wilder thoughts and much free time...
Being so cheap, and easy to find, many lengths and sizes available. They're the classic cheap bonebreakers.
You can try the one that best fits your strength and body size
Easily replaceable, and not hard to conceal or carry (I have made some "belt attachments" with hard plastics and a hot air gun, darn efective
And also important: they are disposable, use and throw
Steel is stronger than bone, always. Wood is nice to practice and check for vibrations hurting your hand/compromising grip
Really quick handles work just fine, and you can find the tape/wrapping for $1 at any convenience store or wallmart...
Being so cheap, and easy to find, many lengths and sizes available. They're the classic cheap bonebreakers.
You can try the one that best fits your strength and body size
Easily replaceable, and not hard to conceal or carry (I have made some "belt attachments" with hard plastics and a hot air gun, darn efective
And also important: they are disposable, use and throw
Steel is stronger than bone, always. Wood is nice to practice and check for vibrations hurting your hand/compromising grip
Really quick handles work just fine, and you can find the tape/wrapping for $1 at any convenience store or wallmart...
Love this thread. Thought I should make my own contribution. I just wanted to make something wicked and dangerous one day.
[video]https://youtu.be/vry7LamO9tw[/video]
Great looking head, but the attachment part could use some work! i picture it tearing out quite rapidely with intense use!