THE Hollow Handle Knife Thread

bowie69 said:
Honestly, I think a Buckmaster 184 with some modern updates could be a hit.
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Bowie, I agree. Kind of. I had thought about doing an updated version. But when I thought about the things that I would want changed: Full height grind, no serrated clip, cut some weight from the back end (the guard, buttcap, and handle), and functioning sawback, I realized that it would basically be my Model 7.

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What are your thoughts though? As far as updates you'd like to see. I really like the Buckmaster and would like to play with the concept, I'm just not sure what direction to take it.

Also, VERY nice present for your daughter Dave. Looking forward to hearing how thrilled she is to receive it!

Sam Wilson :thumbup:
 
BladeScout said:
Yeah, that was the one that I noticed.

Might not be worth much in a monetary sense (Ive seen that model go for not a lot if dough), but I quite like the bayo style of the blade.

The shape might not be optimal for general 'outdoorsy' stuff.


Excellent, that you have one. Whats your impression of it?
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The metal machining was really nicely done and the plastic handle felt very solid and connected to the blade. The sheath was much stouter than today's nylon sheaths. I didn't actually use the blade enough say how the edge wore - but the geometry was decent for cutting and the saw kinda worked. The compass fell out and was lost.


If I came across one for a decent price, I'd probably buy one again.
 
Sam Wilson said:
I actually like that a lot! Looks very fun/useful. Upgraded with a metal handle and it would be ready for action.
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Thanks, it is a cool little knife. It has been on many adventures with me when I was a teenager. A couple of my friends had the larger more robust Lifeknife Commando, but this one was about half the price and I was able to buy it at a local gun shop, so that's what I went with :)
 
Recently did a satin version of the SSII, thought I'd post a couple pics here.

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I'll put some more up later when I have more time.

Sam :thumbup:
 
Sam Wilson said:
Recently did a satin version of the SSII, thought I'd post a couple pics here.

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I'll put some more up later when I have more time.

Sam :thumbup:
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I love that you are making these very practical, flexible designs on what is otherwise an olde school design. Looks great.
 
Might not even be worth posting this because it's such a poor photo, but that's my Wall Model 18 off in the distance there....

In the Kettle Moraine forest.
 
You sure do execute that whole package very, very well Sam. I prefer the sawteeth myself as opposed to the flat spine. I just love the ability to "notch" rope stoppers, tent pegs etc. Easier and probably safer than using the main edge IMO.
 
And some HH content! I need to get these out more for photos...
 

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RX-79G said:
I love that you are making these very practical, flexible designs on what is otherwise an olde school design. Looks great.
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bowie69 said:
Might not even be worth posting this because it's such a poor photo, but that's my Wall Model 18 off in the distance there....

In the Kettle Moraine forest.
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LostViking said:
Sam,

More beautiful work sir!
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Thank you guys very much, I appreciate it. Bowie, nice to see that your Wall is getting out in the field!
 
gundy said:
You sure do execute that whole package very, very well Sam. I prefer the sawteeth myself as opposed to the flat spine. I just love the ability to "notch" rope stoppers, tent pegs etc. Easier and probably safer than using the main edge IMO.
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Thank you Gundy. The sawteeth certainly add an element of utility, I agree with you. I like the idea of a serrated clip for doing some of those things, but don't like the way it would potentially weaken it during "hard use." Serrations/saw teeth definitely give more options though, and don't dull as easily.

Here are some customer pics of an SSII in the field I thought I would share.

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Sam :thumbup:
 
Thanks for putting this thread together. I salivate when I see examples of some great knives. I was wondering. How does a hollow handle knife compare to a full tang strength-wise? Excuse my ignorance. I am just curious.
 
Depends on the maker, a cheap one from china, not so strong. A well made one from a good maker, tough as can be. The blade would break long before the handle join will give.
 
Slightly better pic of the Wall 18, along with my ever-reliable Buck 102.

For the record, the Wall saws like a little champ.
 
ArcheoMark said:
Thanks for putting this thread together. I salivate when I see examples of some great knives. I was wondering. How does a hollow handle knife compare to a full tang strength-wise? Excuse my ignorance. I am just curious.
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I agree with Dave on this. People are far too concerned (not saying you don't have a good question) about the "strength" of a full tang knife vs. a HH knife. In reality (in the case of a quality HH knife) it's pretty much a non-issue. As Dave mentioned, the blade will almost always break before the handle somehow comes off, as long as the maker did a good job, which the good custom makers do.

The blade will (usually, barring freak occasions and defects, which full tang knives suffer from also) either snap at the tip, plunge line/ricasso area, or right in front of the guard. Also, an important point to remember about well made HH knives, especially those with steel handles, is that when the knife is flexed, it's not really bending much at the guard/handle junction. The handle is squared and mated to the bottom of the guard (it should be, anyway) and being mechanically secured to the tang it is drawn up nice and tight to the back of the guard. In this way, the mated steel tube handle is going to help prevent much flex of the tang since it is reinforcing the joint, and being squared to the back of the guard will prevent it from giving much as force is exerted on it.

I hope that makes sense. If not, think of it like this: Outside of the "knife world," if you had to break off a 1" long piece of hardened steel (HH knife tang) or a 5" long piece of hardened steel (full tang), which could you exert more force/leverage on, and which do you think would break first? Now imagine that the 1" piece of steel is reinforced with a steel tube, bolt, and epoxy, and the 5" piece of steel is reinforced with wood or micarta? Either way, it would be exceptionally rare to break either one in a cutting task (what knives are used for), in my opinion.

I hope that helps and makes sense.

Sam Wilson :thumbup:
 
bowie69 said:
Slightly better pic of the Wall 18, along with my ever-reliable Buck 102.

For the record, the Wall saws like a little champ.
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Also, two great tools there bowie! Glad you got to use them and they are working for you, especially the Wall. Nice! :thumbup:
 
Sam Wilson said:
Thank you Gundy. The sawteeth certainly add an element of utility, I agree with you. I like the idea of a serrated clip for doing some of those things, but don't like the way it would potentially weaken it during "hard use." Serrations/saw teeth definitely give more options though, and don't dull as easily.

Here are some customer pics of an SSII in the field I thought I would share.

image16_zpstqu4cimv.jpg


image11_zpsmflitvfo.jpg


Sam :thumbup:
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Sam what are the specs on this model? Looks very nice!
 
mistwalker said:
Sam what are the specs on this model? Looks very nice!
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Thank you, Mist. It is my SSII with a 3/16" thick blade of CPM 154. I made the prototype with a 5.5" blade, but this one is a little closer to 5.75", which I think is what I will go with in the future. Stainless guard and handle tube, obviously.

Sam :thumbup:
 
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