THE Hollow Handle Knife Thread

Hello,

Ahhhh....Ya know, I didn't even realize that typo!! LMAO!! And you are Right...It would be One Thick Meatball!!! LOL!

It's actually 5/16" thick at the spine!! I wrapped the handle last night with either Kevlar cord or military grade 4-strand mini Para cord. I have Both and both via same color. But I think it was the mini Para cord!!

OD Green Color, I used! Either way, it Sure enhanced the knife and made it look awesome!! Gonna add the dangling lanyard wrist strap that I like on my knives!

Ya know, I am half Native American and I think I get the love for dangling items!! And Also being Native American and having been taught the most Extreme survival skills by my Dad who was.a Korea and Vietnam War Special Forces Veteran, and who spent 21 years in the US Army, I learned that one can Never have too much rope or tying cord, LOL!! Therefore I sure make sure I Always have extra!!

Thanks guts, for the comical posts! They were Funny, LOL! I didn't even realize I made that typo!!
 
Congratulations Demon!! Very beautiful knife, in my opinion! A tank... Like you, I love the big knives.. And respect for your father, and for his service, compliments to him.. Well, we want to see a picture of your knife after completing the handle!
And you made a really good choice for the steel you have chosen. The A2 or the D2 it is an excellent steel, and it is also the steel of my favorite knives, the Chris Reeve One Piece..
 
Anyway, until the last month, my favorite Martin was absolutely the Apparo 9.5 ".. But.... Then...... A couple of weeks ago, I saw a FANTASTIC model, of course always a Martin.. And my certainties on my favorite Apparo collapsed!!
This is that knife...... The Martin Caiman TAD Gear Limited Edition!!!
I love it..... I really love it!! Maybe in part because I also love the TAD Gear. In my opinion it's really been a successful duo!
The rear cap I think is copper? And it is already included the compass inside the cap..




I do hope the Martins make this a standard design. I love it.
 
Anyway, until the last month, my favorite Martin was absolutely the Apparo 9.5 ".. But.... Then...... A couple of weeks ago, I saw a FANTASTIC model, of course always a Martin.. And my certainties on my favorite Apparo collapsed!!
This is that knife...... The Martin Caiman TAD Gear Limited Edition!!!
I love it..... I really love it!! Maybe in part because I also love the TAD Gear. In my opinion it's really been a successful duo!
The rear cap I think is copper? And it is already included the compass inside the cap..





The first picture is a picture of mine. The knife was sold 2 years ago. The rear cap isn't copper but brass. Some of these knives had aluminium butt cap.
It was a very nice model but I've fount if WAY too heavy comparing to other models (non hollow) with a longer blade.

More pics of this puppy :













 
I brought 3 knives out last week for some testing: Two of them hollow handle big choppers, a Lile and a Voorhis, and a Gerber Guardian dagger (for trying out making a spear):

PA130188_zpseatprahc.jpg


Both the choppers were essentially similar in edge geometry. The Voorhis had a 0.020" base with 12 degrees per side, slightly convexed, and the Lile had a slightly thicker base of 0.028", but with much taller bevels of 9-10 degrees per side, and no convexing. I would have guessed, because of the slight convexing, that the more open-edged Voorhis edge would turn out to be stronger... It had performed OK in edge retention with my hand applied edge of about 12 per side on a base of 0.040" (this below was also a 12 per side REK edge, but on a thinner 0.020" edge base, a thickness standard I derived from my Randalls)...

The steel on the Voorhis should be 5160, and the Lile is probably D-2 (although 440C is an outside possibility).

This photo below shows the drastic difference in the ability to take thin edges: The Lile had two small chips, but that was because I was initially careless: It never chipped again in hundreds of hits after my first few careless chops (the way you pull out the blade from the wood is critical)... The Voorhis showed it could not take this thinness at all: It warped and wobbled all over the place, but I will test it again with a slightly more open angle and no convexing. Edge holding of the initial fine edge was amazing on the Lile, despite the two chips, obviously very poor on the Voorhis...:

PA150224_zpsgznfbxwz.jpg


Other than that, Full flat grinds perform well in pure brawn, but I realize now that, when ground very thin on very broad blades, they are more vulnerable to side loads than just as thin hollow grinds edges that have narrower blades (like Randalls): The deeper you go into the wood on a single stroke, the more tightly "pinched" the edge is just above the secondary bevel... Hollow ground edges don't grow thicker immediately above the edge, so they are less tightly "pinched"... In effect the high performance of very wide Full Flat Grinds works against the edge stability... I would say when the blade gets wider than two inches you cannot afford edges as thin as on a Randall blade that is hollow ground and 1.5 inches wide...

The Voorhis still outperformed the Lile in chopping, and its sawback was especially impressive...: The Voorhis sawback is by far the best I have ever tried, the only sawback I have seen that can fully go through 3" limbs or more with complete ease...: If the regular main edge later holds up at thicker angles, I figure it will be salvageable as a rough "user", although the Lile "Mission" will be a user as well, since I like better and will keep aside the smaller Sly II...

PA130190_zpsopprjvns.jpg


The Lile being put to work making a spear shaft for the Gerber Guardian:

PA120102_zpsz0hpdgws.jpg


Most daggers have a handle "swell" that makes it easier to align the blade with the shaft by carving a slight hollow. Note the sawback made useful notches to help stabilize the whole thing.

PA130147_zps9saclezo.jpg


In five minutes the rough tie up was "rigid" enough to use, but a big drawback with hasty tie-ups is that you can't really practice with them, as the impact will
inevitably loosen the dagger... It would take much more than five minutes to do a better tie up...

PA130154_zpsxcnfl616.jpg


Compare how neat and easy this five minute lash-up was, and how little tie-up material was required, compared to this:

4591979_std1_zpsna0ik88g.jpg


Another huge advantage of the dagger is that it is light enough for the spear to be thrown, which is simply out of the question with a full size chopper...

Throwing a spear is a lot more intuitive than throwing a knife, and my very first throw from 30+ feet scored a good hit:

PA130159_zpsnrr51g56.jpg


Imagine how far a full size survival knife would fly compared to this...

I have stood closer than twenty feet to deer in the wild before, so hitting one like this is not quite science-fiction...

The knife also buried itself with a lot of force, nearly 2", so much deeper than any thrown knife.

PA130173_zpssfxt2ewd.jpg


The trouble is, this sub 7" blade is way too small to prevent miles of tracking: The deer would probably run or die miles away, never to be found again... I have an 8.75" Blackjack Tartan Dirk that might do a little better, and is just as light, but it is still very marginal given that hitting anywhere on the body is about all the accuracy you can expect out of this...

Still, it was a fun outing trying this out :)

Gaston
 
Last edited:
The first picture is a picture of mine. The knife was sold 2 years ago. The rear cap isn't copper but brass. Some of these knives had aluminium butt cap.
It was a very nice model but I've fount if WAY too heavy comparing to other models (non hollow) with a longer blade.

More pics of this puppy :














Woow thank you for these additional pics man!! I love this model... By chance, you know how many models were produced?
I hope to find one for sale sooner or later.. The strange thing is that I have not seen this model between the "knives" list on the TAD Gear site..
 
I brought 3 knives out last week for some testing: Two of them hollow handle big choppers, a Lile and a Voorhis, and a Gerber Guardian dagger (for trying out making a spear):

PA130188_zpseatprahc.jpg


Both the choppers were essentially similar in edge geometry. The Voorhis had a 0.020" base with 12 degrees per side, slightly convexed, and the Lile had a slightly thicker base of 0.028", but with much taller bevels of 9-10 degrees per side, and no convexing. I would have guessed, because of the slight convexing, that the more open-edged Voorhis edge would turn out to be stronger... It had performed OK in edge retention with my hand applied edge of about 12 per side on a base of 0.040" (this below was also a 12 per side REK edge, but on a thinner 0.020" edge base, a thickness standard I derived from my Randalls)...

The steel on the Voorhis should be 5160, and the Lile is probably D-2 (although 440C is an outside possibility).

This photo below shows the drastic difference in the ability to take thin edges: The Lile had two small chips, but that was because I was initially careless: It never chipped again in hundreds of hits after my first few careless chops (the way you pull out the blade from the wood is critical)... The Voorhis showed it could not take this thinness at all: It warped and wobbled all over the place, but I will test it again with a slightly more open angle and no convexing. Edge holding of the initial fine edge was amazing on the Lile, despite the two chips, obviously very poor on the Voorhis...:

PA150224_zpsgznfbxwz.jpg


Other than that, Full flat grinds perform well in pure brawn, but I realize now that, when ground very thin on very broad blades, they are more vulnerable to side loads than just as thin hollow grinds edges that have narrower blades (like Randalls): The deeper you go into the wood on a single stroke, the more tightly "pinched" the edge is just above the secondary bevel... Hollow ground edges don't grow thicker immediately above the edge, so they are less tightly "pinched"... In effect the high performance of very wide Full Flat Grinds works against the edge stability... I would say when the blade gets wider than two inches you cannot afford edges as thin as on a Randall blade that is hollow ground and 1.5 inches wide...

The Voorhis still outperformed the Lile in chopping, and its sawback was especially impressive...: The Voorhis sawback is by far the best I have ever tried, the only sawback I have seen that can fully go through 3" limbs or more with complete ease...: If the regular main edge later holds up at thicker angles, I figure it will be salvageable as a rough "user", although the Lile "Mission" will be a user as well, since I like better and will keep aside the smaller Sly II...

PA130190_zpsopprjvns.jpg


The Lile being put to work making a spear shaft for the Gerber Guardian:

PA120102_zpsz0hpdgws.jpg


Most daggers have a handle "swell" that makes it easier to align the blade with the shaft by carving a slight hollow. Note the sawback made useful notches to help stabilize the whole thing.

PA130147_zps9saclezo.jpg


In five minutes the rough tie up was "rigid" enough to use, but a big drawback with hasty tie-ups is that you can't really practice with them, as the impact will
inevitably loosen the dagger... It would take much more than five minutes to do a better tie up...

PA130154_zpsxcnfl616.jpg


Compare how neat and easy this five minute lash-up was, and how little tie-up material was required, compared to this:

4591979_std1_zpsna0ik88g.jpg


Another huge advantage of the dagger is that it is light enough for the spear to be thrown, which is simply out of the question with a full size chopper...

Throwing a spear is a lot more intuitive than throwing a knife, and my very first throw from 30+ feet scored a good hit:

PA130159_zpsnrr51g56.jpg


Imagine how far a full size survival knife would fly compared to this...

I have stood closer than twenty feet to deer in the wild before, so hitting one like this is not quite science-fiction...

The knife also buried itself with a lot of force, nearly 2", so much deeper than any thrown knife.

PA130173_zpssfxt2ewd.jpg


The trouble is, this sub 7" blade is way too small to prevent miles of tracking: The deer would probably run or die miles away, never to be found again... I have an 8.75" Blackjack Tartan Dirk that might do a little better, and is just as light, but it is still very marginal given that hitting anywhere on the body is about all the accuracy you can expect out of this...

Still, it was a fun outing trying this out :)

Gaston


Gaston, you need one of these. The girl, not the spear. ;)

H10%20761.jpg
 
Here's a super Colin Cox knife that resurfaced on the big auction site. Made in the 80s with a nice Marbles compass and a great sheath. I believe Colin called this model the White Knight. Dang, this one is tempting. :thumbup:


s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg


s-l1600.jpg
 
Woow thank you for these additional pics man!! I love this model... By chance, you know how many models were produced?
I hope to find one for sale sooner or later.. The strange thing is that I have not seen this model between the "knives" list on the TAD Gear site..

They don't list all the knives and past collaboration on the website. There must be around 30 of these made I guess.
 
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