I've had this for a while, but I've been too busy in enjoying it to write it up. Time to write it up. Sam Wilson told (twice) to be brutally honest... to be brutally honest, I love this knife/system. It is a great knife. A camping, hunting, survival knife for real conditions.
Wilson SAFE Review
The Knife: Wilson S.A.F.E., CPM 154.
Disclaimer: all the pictures are "before". I don't have any pictures using it because, well, I was too busy using it, and I don't understand how to work a Go-Pro or other POV camera.
About me: while I have been trained by Uncle Sam and friends to do interesting things in interesting places, I am not Rambo. I am an ex-mountain guide, a hunter, a fisherman, a scoutmaster, a hiker, and a dad. My usual knife is a BCNW O-1, an Adventure Sworn Classic, or one of my relative's puukkos, but I have about 50 knives that make guest appearances. I have been through many survival courses eating bugs and snakes, but still prefer to camp with fresh ground coffee and tasty food, carefully made.
Location of testing: Alaska, the last frontier, with guest appearances in Montana, North Dakota, and California.
What did it do: meal preparation in the house, car camping, backpacking and hiking; field dressing and skinning of a deer and a rabbit; filleting of a few salmon; fire building extraordinaire, including feather sticks, and building a bow drill; breaking down cardboard boxes (harder on a blade than you would think); taking out a bunch of splinters and spines from a most unfortunate encounter while off-trail; and building shelters with a bunch of boy scouts.
What it did not do: chopping down trees, batoning 6 rounds, opening crates and other such destructive testing.
Things I would not change:
- Blade shape. The drop point is just right. The tip worked as a drill nicely. The drop was just enough that I didnt puncture the gut of the deer I cleaned. There was enough sweep for skinning, though the guard got in the way (see below).
- The steel. I love this stuff. Its gone a week at a time with just stropping. I sharpened it just once when I reprofiled it (see below).
- Overall dimensions. The handle was big enough for my paws, and the blade length was just right for usage. It probably wouldnt baton 6 wood, but I never baton 6 wood. I dont even baton 2 wood. It batons 1 wood just fine.
- Hollow handle. I like the size. Just enough for supplies for an emergency fire. The fire steel is fine, though I am sloppy enough to prefer a longer steel for casual use. This one is perfect, though, for emergencies. I havent used the sharpening steel, though. Looks kind of weird, but I guess it probably works. The o-ring keeps things dry up to 30 minutes under water, including very sensitive tinder.
- The 90 degree spine. Lights off fire steels just fine. I do like the ice skate spine of L. T. Wright knives, but this one works.
- The cord wrap. A good, positive hold. Perfect would be if it were made of a material like jute, but this works. I havent unraveled it to use it to build a shelter, but it should work. I would like to know how he does it without any twists
just curious. Also, it does seem to soak up blood, fat and such, and takes forever to clean
but I still like it.
- The ricasso or choil. I can never keep them straight. Anyway, they make the sharpening or stropping so clean.
Things I did change:
- Added jute twine and a needle to the hollow handle cache.
- Repacked the tin with fishing gear.
- Re-profiled the edge (see below).
Things I would change:
- Lanyard hole. I really like lanyards. Dangle while skinning. Retention when at high angles. A little extra cordage. I like them. A lanyard hole in the cap would be a good start, and Im having one added shortly. Having one or two in the top of the guard would be nice, too, for positive grip and lashing to a spear (which Ive never needed but really looks cool).
- The guard. Its too big. Gets in the way for skinning. I like the asymmetry, but I would love it half as big up, down, and to the side. But Im a puukko guy, so I start at no guard and work up from there.
- The guard. Its too sharp. There is no need for 90 degree edges on the guard, it just hurts the hand. It really hurts when I carve wood, make feather sticks, etc. Yeah, I shouldnt choke up on the knife so much, but I do. I will take a file to the edges, soon.
- Blade/edge thickness. Thinning the edge down and re-setting the edge to 18 degrees per side, it slices like a dream. Now, it sliced well before, but a little thinning makes it a dream. Tomatoes and onions in the kitchen type slicing. Not quite up there with a Japanese kitchen knife, but respectable. Now, Ill be honest, I think it is thinned a little too much. It will roll a little when I cut something hard, think hardwood or bone. But there should be room to set the edge back
not by me, of course, but by someone who actually knows what hes doing.
- The spine. Jimping. I love it. Particularly for skinning, but also for detail cuts. I think Im going to get out my checkering file, and put in some jimping about halfway down the blade, right where the drop breaks.
- The sheath attachment. I love the sheath, dont get me wrong. This is really picky. But I often attach a knife sheath to my shoulder strap or to the side of the pack, and I would love if there were a longer strap in the back with snaps at the top AND the bottom of the sheath. It would then fit in MOLLE points, high ride, or upside down on my shoulder strap.
Bottom line, one of the best knives I have. It was always previously in the pack for testing, but it has earned it's place on my belt. Thank you, Sam Wilson.