THE Hollow Handle Knife Thread

Really thorough and well done review Guns. I agree I'd absolutely want a lanyard hole either in the butt or the guard or both.
 
Hey Guys,

I just got my new knife from Sam and I am very impressed with his work. This one has the lanyard holes in the guard. The angel of the blade is 19 degrees, which I think is perfect for a knife like this. I will be posting more pics, comparing Sam's knife with some other hollow handles, when I get some time.

Pictures are courtesy of Sam Wilson

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Welcome J-Utah. Great looking knife! One of the most practical, sensibly sized HH knives on the market.

Sam, you knocked this one out of the park. Really like the green cord and brown sheath. Well done....as usual. You know you could change it up a bit and make an ugly knife at some point. The visual perfection of your knives is starting to bore me. :D
 
Guns, thank you for the honest review. I have to agree with the others, that was a really well done writeup. Covered all the bases, including pros and cons, and wasn't just a fluff piece. I appreciate the fact that you actually used the knife, too. That's what I made them for. I also appreciate not being penalized for not being able to baton through 6" rounds :D.

J-Utah, I am glad you are happy with it, and welcome to the thread. Looking forward to more pics of your other knives, and of any of the SAFE knife in use. Let me add a couple of yours to my post, if you don't mind.

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Sam :thumbup:
 
Welcome J-Utah. Great looking knife! One of the most practical, sensibly sized HH knives on the market.

Sam, you knocked this one out of the park. Really like the green cord and brown sheath. Well done....as usual. You know you could change it up a bit and make an ugly knife at some point. The visual perfection of your knives is starting to bore me. :D

Thank you, Tom. The green and brown go really well together, I agree. I've made plenty of ugly knives, they just never make it out of the shop :D. But I'll try to change it up for you, lol. For those that don't know, Tom was involved and very helpful in the design of the S.A.F.E. System, and for that I am very grateful. Thank you, Tom.

Sam :thumbup:
 
For those that don't know, Tom was involved and very helpful in the design of the S.A.F.E. System...

That's right, Sam. It's about time you give me credit. Sam designed 98% of everything and I tweaked the other 2% of Sam's ideas. He's not as great as you'll think. :p :D
 
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Welcome to J-Utah and congrats on a very cool very well made knife.

I really like the guard and the lashing points, the brown sheath looks great with the green wrap too.

Just a outstanding job by Sam and a great knife.
 
It is really great to see Sam Wilson knives starting to filter out in the world! :thumbup:

Terrific photos and a great write-up, Guns. The SAFE looks like a near perfect do-it-all knife for me. :)

My time will come!

Meantime, keep the pics and reviews coming!
 
Its the Boker version and I like it fine, I'm not a fan of 440c but it works very well just a bit thick behind the edge needed some thinning out to have a useful edge. Its on my emergency bag in the back of the truck. Oh the stock sheath from Boker is crap so you will want to replace that.

This is not a thread on steel I know, but 440C is still pretty close to as good as it gets, if not more: I just could'nt help sharing this link with you:

http://www.jayfisher.com/440C_Love_Hate.htm

I'm not one to hold strong opinions about steel, since in edge holding while cutting I can hardly tell you anything that I am able to differentiate (probably because I filter out my inaccurate perception more than those who say they can see a big difference: Just having you edge dirty or clean between cuts can make a huge difference)... But I do remember the mid-late 90s, when I encountered the most scientific magazine test I've ever seen, one that placed 440C above everything else in raw edge holding on most materials, including vs early CPM steels on Manilla rope... (On the sharpening side, it is a whole other matter, and I used to hate 440C before I got diamond hones: Stones on 440C are only really good for the initial rough shaping. The closer to the end, the more you need something that doesn't lose it perfect flatness imho...)

Personally, now that I use diamond hones, I would today pick 440C above everything else, much more so than thirty years ago, and this just because of the diamond hone performance... Even if I am wrong, I am sure the margin is small (and judging from the 90s test, the margin the other way may actually be much larger)... As pointed out by Jay Fisher in the link above, some otherwise serious knifemaker will actually say utter nonsense, like how chrome reduces hardness and wear resistance, when in reality the exact opposite is true: There really is a lot of weird things going on in the world of cutlery steel, and I would say be wary of the consensus, especially concerning not new/not exciting stainless steels...

Gaston

PS. I just realized it's the second time I chimed in about 440C on this thread: Sorry about that, but the link to Jay Fisher is really worth it. :)

BTW, I just got my bronze Cerakoated Model 18 (with the unwillingly cropped guard), and that and especially the "razoredgeknives" edge are both amazing: Pics soon! G.
 
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That's right, Sam. It's about time you give me credit. Sam designed 98% of everything and I tweaked the other 2% of Sam's ideas. He's not as great as you'll think. :p :D

Don't worry, I'll be sure to get your royalty check in the mail Sunday...:D

Welcome to J-Utah and congrats on a very cool very well made knife.

I really like the guard and the lashing points, the brown sheath looks great with the green wrap too.

Just a outstanding job by Sam and a great knife.

Thank you Dave. In the end, it all comes down to Lile's work again, doesn't it?

It is really great to see Sam Wilson knives starting to filter out in the world! :thumbup:

Terrific photos and a great write-up, Guns. The SAFE looks like a near perfect do-it-all knife for me. :)

My time will come!

Meantime, keep the pics and reviews coming!

Thank you bowie, I look forward to working with you when the time comes. Don't be shy about posting pics of your beautiful Wall whenever you have a chance. It's a great looking knife. :thumbup:
 
I did a pouch on the front of Guns’ sheath for an altoids tin, as you saw in his pictures. This obviously allows the storage of more gear than just the hollow handle. That being the case, and I know this has been discussed a number of times, but hey, this is a pretty free-ranging thread and we all love to talk about survival stuff. So what do you guys like to put in your sheath pouches in the way of additional gear?

I have wanted to get some opinions on what I call my Basic Kit, which obviously goes in the tin. Now, just like what goes into the hollow handle, this is not meant to be exhaustive, nor your only kit. But it is some extra gear that is easily carried. Additionally, I know that survival kits are usually very personal, so this is meant to be just what it’s called, a Basic Kit. I didn’t jam it full of stuff, both to allow people to fill it themselves, and to keep cost down.

I have included some of the things I think are most important, and the best versions, size/quality wise as well as economically, in this kit. There is still room for additional gear, and/or substitutions.

So first, here is a pic of it all assembled. Guns had posted a pic also, but that was on the last page.

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Opening up the tin, we have the Basic Kit itself. I have only included three basic items. However, based on all the research I have done, and personal experience and talking with others, most “survival situations” last approximately 2-5 days or less, with 72 hours being the actual number that is given most often in the articles/books I have read. That being the case, I wanted to focus on the extreme basics, and honestly, food or hunting just wasn’t very high on the list of priorities.

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Now, I am not saying that someone wouldn’t get hungry in that time, obviously they would. But if we’re truly talking 72 hours or so, food is not going to be very high on my list, personally. Obviously, opinions vary. I would be more concerned (I think) with staying put, not getting injured, conserving what water I may have, and staying warm/dry/safe. That’s just me.

So all that being said, in no particular order, we have:
1.) The flashlight. I think a flashlight is very important, not just for safety, but also morale. Especially if you don’t have a fire yet, or can’t get one going for whatever reason, or have to try and start it at night, a flashlight gives you an instant source of light, available immediately. The clip also allows it to be hooked onto things for suspension, and can also be taken off and used for other purposes.

2.) Tinder. There are many different types of tinder, and everybody has their personal favorite. I’m not saying this one is better than another. I do believe this particular type offers some advantages, and that is why I chose it. This is jute twine impregnated with wax. Unlike cotton balls covered with petroleum jelly, which work great, this is practically mess free, all things being equal. Also, it takes much less space to store. I made this having five equal lengths of approximately 3” each. I did this so that at each bend, you can just cut it and have a 3” piece, which I have found to burn approximately 1 ½ minutes, at least. Obviously, they can easily be lit with the included ferro rod, or whatever source of ignition you have. That is plenty of time to light your next bit of tinder, and will burn long enough to even dry damp tinder out and ignite.

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3.) The Compass. I really enjoy this part, because this is a departure from the usual navigation aid that accompanies a HH knife, which is often a small button compass in the buttcap. There is nothing wrong with that method, but I will just say that I have had less than stellar experiences with several button compasses over the years. The only one I would really recommend, and do so heartily, is the brass NATO compass. This is the compass that I offer with some of my knives, and works great.

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That being said, I much prefer a larger compass, and carrying it outside of the buttcap. This prevents the compass from being damaged if you pound with the buttcap of the knife, and also avoids having to remove the buttcap every time you want to take a bearing. I make a leather pouch or sheath to hold this one, and it has some cordage that allows it to hang around your neck. To me, this is infinitely more convenient and faster than in the buttcap.

When you want to take a bearing, lift the compass, open the protective flap, shoot your bearing, and then close the flap again. The weight of the compass while hanging will help to keep the flap closed, and in an emergency, the cordage can be used for other purposes.

OK, that was my .02, what do you guys think? Suggestions, critique, your own kits? Let’s have it.

Sam :thumbup:
 
My basic, on knife kit is very simmilar to Sam's. No matter what knife I am carrying I always have:

1) Tinder (I have used dryer lint or cotton balls with petrolium jelly, but will probally switch to twine based on Sam's reasoning)

2) Fire Starter (Usually ferro rod. Ocassionaly waterproof matches)

3) Sharpener (Small diamond rod or stone)

4) Duct Tape (A few feet pressed into a small square. This could be used for gear repair, bandages or blister control)

5) Sewing Needle (This item takes up virtually no room and has a ton of uses. Used to treat blisters or dig out splinters. Could be used to repair gear, although I have never bothered in the field. Rambo could use it to sew up a wound. YouTube Guy could use it to make a fish hook or a compass floating on a leaf)

6) A couple of water purification tablets to be able to treat 2 or 3 liters of water. Again, these take up hardly any room in the kit.

Sam's SAFE knife has the ferro and diamond rods along with wax impregnated cloth rolled up neatly in the handle with a ton of room left over.

When I carry a hollow handle with an outside pouch, I will usally add some single use antiseptic pads or salve and a micro flashlight.

I don't carry a compass on the knife, unless it is built into the cap, but usually have a small brass one attached to an article of clothing or gear and a large one in my shirt or cargo pocket.
 
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My kit is heavy on fire making supplies, but the other items that Sam and J-Utah mentioned would be next in line.


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440C is still pretty close to as good as it gets, if not more...

Personally, now that I use diamond hones, I would today pick 440C above everything else...

I totally agree. Maybe it's just because I have used it and sharpened it more than other steels, but it is my favorite steel as well. If it was good enough for Lile, Neeley, Parrish, Crain, Hibben and a boat load of other highly respected custom knifemakers back in the day, then it's good enough for me.
 
J-Utah, those are some excellent additions to a kit. In my personal kit, I keep a small sewing kit, which I wind up using more than I should, for the reasons you mentioned. A sewing needle is very handy. I have also repaired my clothing and gear several times over the years, so I may need to add a sewing kit apart from my pouch so it stays untouched.

I also keep about water purification tablets as well, and a zip lock bag to use them. I had not thought about the duct tape, though, so that is something I will be adding soon.

I also have a small fishing kit, basically a length of line, a couple hooks, and a sinker or two. I have thought that if I'm ever in that situation, they would probably be more useful for helping me keep my mind off the situation, I don't know.

And Tom, always love that Randall. :thumbup:
 
Sam,

BTW, I really like the pouch you made for the compass. Another great idea! That Suunto compass is the best liquid filled compass on the market. I have several of them and none have formed a bubble.

Speaking of needles, if you're looking for a place to keep it safe, that's what the slot is for on the brass sparking tool in my photo. Place the needle in the slot and wrap the shaft with thread.
 
Not to get side tracked from the survival kits, but I wanted to show Sam's knife in good company. The Neeley has seen the most use and abuse, as you can see from the photo. The SAFE knife is almost a full 1" shorter than the Randall and the Neeley. There are a few reasons I think I will be choosing the SAFE knife for most outings.

1st) I am a sucker for simplicity. I think Sam nailed it in the desing department (both the knife and the sheath).

2nd) Weight. The SAFE knife weighs almost 3oz. less than the Randall and 2oz. less than the Neeley. This would not be a big deal for most people, but most of my time in the field is spent on hikes lasting four or more days. I am not an ultra-lighter by any means, but when carrying food and gear for a week or two I eventually wind up counting ounces. Yes, I could forgo a fixed blade altogether, but where is the fun in that?

3rd) Concealability. The SAFE knife's sheath hangs down about 1.5" less than the Randall or the Neeley and is covered up almost entirely by a long sleeved shirt when worn on my belt. Again, not a big issue for most, but sometimes I don't want to draw attention to my knife when I run into someone on a trail or if I decide to walk into town to resupply. I sometimes use a shoulder rig for this reason, however it is nice to have options.

Speaking of sheaths: I sometimes carry the Neeley in a Spec Ops Combat Master Short. This allows me even more carrying options as well as a larger front pouch for a more expansive survival kit (I am bringing this post back on track). I am currently modifying a Combat Master Mini for the SAFE knife. It will be a perfect fit as soon as I am done, although I will be hard pressed to find a reason to use it over Sam's flawless leather one.

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Here is what I normally have in my kit and in the knife handle. Its stuff that has proven useful in the woods over the years, its an evolving kit. The string is kevlar cord, mini multi tool, Esee arrowhead, bandaids, antibiotic gel, signal mirror, fire steel, flashlight, split weights, fish hooks, those little chem lights and a rubber deal that makes them into a floater, on the back of the tin i have some wet dry paper to touch up an edge, and I usually close the tin and have a couple of ranger bands around it.

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For a fire tinder I like the cotton balls with petroleum jelly, I just take a straw and cut it into 3 inch lengths and use a toothpick to stuff the soaked cotton balls in as tight as i can get it, then melt the ends of the straw closed with a lighter. No mess and packs a lot more than you would think.
 
Cricketdave,

That is a great idea to put the wet/dry paper on back of the tin. I also like the straw idea for the cotton balls. I put them in tin foil, but straws would pack more compactly in either the tin or the handle.
 
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