The idiot's guide to the AR-15 rifle (or an idiot building one)

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And I've found a place called apextac.com that sells "replica" quad rails of high end makers like Daniel Defense, Troy Industries, etc.. for pretty dang cheap. I'm a little skeptical but they are appealing for the price. For example:

Daniel Defense "replica" LITE 7.0 free float rail: $68.00 (http://www.apextac.com/catalog/item/6540836/6664298.htm)

Tango Down "style" QD MK46 verticle Grip- $22.00 (http://www.apextac.com/catalog/item/6540837/6864553.htm)

Also found some good reviewed quad rails at CTD... such as: http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/ARR390-7.html (59.97)

Right now I'm looking at about $1440 (If I go with the Stag)

Of course I'm shooting right now for about $900 for the rifle, rail, and vertical grip. I'll keep saving for the rest over a while.

Anyways, keep going with yours and I'll do the same with mine :)

The Apextac company you have listed is for airsoft...

http://www.apextac.com/about.html

There is a reason they are so much cheaper. I find it amusing that people are willing to spend nearly $1000 on a rifle they hope to depend on, and then by cheap accessories that gotta be just as good....

It's like sticking a $2000 custom 1911 in a $13 Uncle Mike's snap strap holster because it was on sale.
 
Amen and amen.

I said a while back that I would put down some thoughts about optics, so I guess this is as good a time as any.

Red Dot Sights (RDS) - This is basically a two horse race in my book (yes, there are others but no where near as common) - Aimpoint and EOTech. I have owned multiples of both. The EOTechs just have too many strikes against them - the turn off automatically after a predetermined amount of time, the battery springs eventually compress under recoil, and the battery life is short and no where near what is advertised in my experience. They have some big upsides like use of AA batteries, well designed reticle, and large "viewing window" but, sadly, these positives are out weighed by the glaring negatives. I understand that the new EOTechs use a different battery orientation that cures the compression problems which is a step in the right direction.

Aimpoints are rugged, they stand up to heat well, they have amazing battery life (I never turn mine off), and they just work. There are sizes and battery configurations available for any application. I own Comp M2s, Comp ML2s, a Comp M3, T-1, and M4 and they are all great. I simply can not say enough good about them. They are the measuring stick by which all RDS are measured. They play second fiddle only to iron sights in terms of reliability. Once you learn to use one as effectively and efficiently as possible (both eyes open, target focus), they are extremely fast and accurate. 300 yard hits on 12" steel are no problem.

When in doubt, just get an Aimpoint.

Magnified Optics - Col. Cooper used to say that magnified optics don't make you shoot better, they make you "see better". Magnified optics are not a crutch. Learn to shoot well with and without them.

ACOGs are great optics. Learn to really use the BAC concept (hint: it works with every magnified optic, not just ACOGs). ACOGs use well designed reticles that promote fast acquisition and many have ranging/hold overs built in. The reticles are pure genius - no dialing clicks, no kentucky windage, just find the hash that fits the shoulders, and squeeze. They are EXTREMELY rugged and need no batteries. The biggest downside is that, even if you have complete command of the BAC concept, they are slower than a RDS. I have also seen really great groups shot on targets up close with ACOGs; the only problem is that it was on the wrong target - field of view is limited. To mitigate the field of view issues, learn to shoot well with both eyes open (which is a large part of the BAC concept).

Variable power optics can be great, especially 1-4X types. ARs are really hitting that hard out past 300 yards so 4X magnification is typically more than enough for all but the most precise applications. On 1X these scopes can be quite fast but they still aren't in the same league as Aimpoints. There will be some distortion, some field of view issues, and it will still seem somewhat like you are looking through a toilet paper tube. These optics are a compromise. They do a bit of everything without being truly great at anything. That doesn't mean they don't work. I am especially fond of the Trijicon Accupoint line and the S&B Short Dot (the Cadillac).

Whatever you choose, I caution you to research and not go cheap. With optics, more so than just about anything else firearm related, you tend to get what you pay for. There are brand new Aimpoints that can be had for less than $400. You can find them even less than that on the secondary market. I have purchased used Aimpoints for as little as $200 before.

I would also caution you to put some thought into how you mount your optic. Don't cheap out here either. The typical ways of mounting an optic don't always apply on an AR so buy a mount designed for the AR. Low rings won't work. Be wary of eye relief issues. I like Larue mounts. Every one of my ARs wears one. Bobro and American Defense also make good mounts.

In case you are wondering (you probably aren't :) ), all of my ARs (and AKs) wear Aimpoints except for one, which has an ACOG (TA11G).


<Sniff>, I feel like we might almost be brothers.....:D You're speaking my language....

You on LF or Alumni too by chance?
 
In regards to optics, I bought an EOTech when I got my rifle but I really wish I had bought an Aimpoint T1. Take a look at those on a LaRue mount if you are looking into optics. The H1 will also work at a slightly lower price.

LaRue all the way.... When you look at how he supports the endusers (Much like RatCutlery does theirs..), as well as his politics and who he supports.... It's worth supporting Mark LaRue...

Along the same lines as the H1, if someone wanted a decent RDS but didn't need to worry about using Night Vision, or the water resistance, the C3 model is pretty much the same as my M3 work optic without the NV and water specs... at a lower price that makes it a bit more affordable.
 
I am on LF, good stuff, few friends are moderators

I'd PM you if I could figure it out...

BC520 over on LF...

Sorry about running up my post count, but we're finally on a topic I'm in my lane for and can speak up about...

The following is my work gun...

IMG_07601.JPG




I'm pretty comfortable with 'er.....
 
Nice, yeah i am spenceds or spencerds, lol can't remember. Got a prairie dog setup and simple old school bushmaster, probably replace it once I get set in a new job soon hopefully
 
Hey Matt, I do like that Troy drop in rail and it is a good price but I'm kind of hooked on FF. Does a free floating rail really improve the accuracy enough to justify the spending?
 
Hey Matt, I do like that Troy drop in rail and it is a good price but I'm kind of hooked on FF. Does a free floating rail really improve the accuracy enough to justify the spending?

Free float (FF) rails will not make the rifle shoot tighter groups. FF are probably one of the most misunderstood AR accessories being sold right now. I bet 90%+ of the people who have them installed can't really tell you why.

A FF rail will make your rifle more consistent. When you shoot a long arm off hand you put slight pressure on the barrel. When you shoot off a sand bag you put different slight pressure on the barrel. When you shoot with a tight sling you put different slight pressure on the barrel. Etc etc etc. Every way that you hold an AR, theoretically causes it to shoot to a different POI (point of impact). FF rails mitigate this effect by eliminating contact with the barrel by the handguards. No accuracy is gained - consistency is gained.

Now the truth is, while it sounds like from the above everyone should free float, you may not need one. I have found ARs to be extremely resistant to POI shifts caused by pressure at the handguard. I have shot non-free floated carbines all the way out to 300 yards (with an Aimpoint) and can still hit the 12" steel. That is about all you can ask in a lot of situations. The effect off the POI from various holds is minimal, especially if you aren't using a shooting sling.

Mission should drive your gear. It is that simple. Is your carbine going to wear an Aimpoint and rarely shot past 200 yards? If yes, you may not need to free float. Is your carbine going to have a high end stainless match barrel, wear a magnified optic, and be used to shoot little groups from a bench? Then you will likely want a free float rail.

Another interesting thing to consider is that not all rifles respond well to free floating. If you look outside the AR world you will see that some rifles shoot better with a pressure pad of some kind. A pressure pad is essentially the exact opposite of free floating. It purposely creates contact with the barrel in an effort to make the contact more consistent. There is no hard and fast rule. I have seen cases with Ruger 10/22s where some shot better free floated and some shot better with a pressure pad. I am not really trying to say you should try a pressure pad on your AR, in fact you really won't find a product to do that. I am just saying that the free float rails are slightly misunderstood and really don't do all the things attributed to them on the internet and in gun shops.

Let the mission drive your gear. Don't add something to your rifle until you understand how it works, understand why you need it, and have the money to buy something of sufficient quality.

<Sniff>, I feel like we might almost be brothers.....:D You're speaking my language....

You on LF or Alumni too by chance?

:D I think I am registered at LightFighter but I don't really post over there. I do read there. I do read and post at M4Carbine.net occasionally.
 
Found these links today on the California gun forum I'm on. Pretty gud.

I have had good dealings with the folks at PK but be advised. When you buy a Daniel Defense upper from them, you are buying an upper that PK assembled from a DD barrel and a CMT upper receiver, etc. You are not buying a DD assembled upper. You also don't get a DD bolt carrier group. The RRA BCGs that you can add to the package are not worth a darn.

You can shop around all you want but you will have a really hard time beating the prices on BCM right now and you won't find better quality.

PS - I removed the links from the quote since I wasn't sure about "deal spotting".
 
Great posts guys. I would also like to add something that is probably common sense to the above posts. Alot of people buy gear on AR's that out match their shooting skills. I know enough to get me in trouble about AR's/M-4's and know that I'll never have the time, money, eye sight or steady hand to shoot much past 300 yards consistantly. Some can do it and I applaud their skill much like a professional sports star. But I doubt I'll ever need to engage a target much past that. If I do, I'll get a weapon that is intended too.
 
Great posts guys. I would also like to add something that is probably common sense to the above posts. Alot of people buy gear on AR\'s that out match their shooting skills. I know enough to get me in trouble about AR\'s/M-4\'s and know that I\'ll never have the time, money, eye sight or steady hand to shoot much past 300 yards consistantly. Some can do it and I applaud their skill much like a professional sports star. But I doubt I\'ll ever need to engage a target much past that. If I do, I\'ll get a weapon that is intended too.

Good point. Not only should mission drive your gear, but gear is not a substitute for skill. Training will bolster your skill and help you understand what gear you need.

It is the circle of life.
 
Thanks for the heads up matthewdanger. Didn't know they only used DD barrels. Still good enough for the people trying to build budget AR's :)
 
Thanks for the heads up matthewdanger. Didn\'t know they only used DD barrels. Still good enough for the people trying to build budget AR\'s :)

Maybe.

BCM uppers are available for pretty much the same price right now and I would take one of those over a PK DD upper anyday.
 
Thanks for the info Matt. My "Mission" is very related to the "rarely over 200 yards with an aimpoint" mission.
 
Thanks for the info Matt. My "Mission" is very related to the "rarely over 200 yards with an aimpoint" mission.

Then I would say that free floating is optional. It won't hurt anything to free float but you probably won't need to spend the extra cash.
 
It all depends on which kit you get, I would recommend a complete .22 upper, I would have to see which brand my buddy has, but he LOVES it! I know I love my glock .22 conversion, best training tool ever!
 
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