The Inkosi Appreciation Thread

Kettleman said:
One is a pivot bushing for the Sebenza, It does not transfer force to the scale so provides no extra strength. The actual larger pivot of the of the Inkosi, Umnumzaan and 25 does.
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I understand what you’re saying. I was basing my statement on the size of the fixed point that the blade contacts regardless of how that point contacts the scales.
 
Kettleman said:
I realized I didn't answer the physical differences.

Larger Pivot
No Pivot bushing
Much larger " full size" washers
Larger floating stop pin
thicker blade stock
more aggressive jimping on the blade spine
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If someone has a decent set of calipers, I'd be interested to know the diameter of the inkosi stop pin.

Regarding the bushing, I've had two inkosis, both of which were centered only at one precise pivot tightness. Any tighter and the pivot was locked. Any looser and the blade was off center. Both knives were corrected at the factory, but the experience heightened my appreciation for the pivot bushing

Edit: I see we have calipers. Looking for stop pin measurement
 
mrknife said:
Thanks! i was curious if there was a small 25, but going from a brief search it doesnt look like it
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No but if they had they would have sold like hotcakes and maybe we wouldn't have the small Inkosi as the small over- built option which many find just too small.
 
I finally found the secret to easy(er) thumbing my small Inkosi. My thumb is still pretty sore from trying to break it in these past few days, and it seemed like every so often the blade felt ‘stuck’ and just didn’t want to open. The problem, as most if you probably already know, was my index finger on the lock bar. I thought it was just resting there, but obviously my grip naturally tightens as I exert pressure on the thumb stud to open it, and if my finger happens to be on the bar when that happens, that blade ain’t moving. I found that if I make the conscious effort to place my finger at the top of the pocket clip, pushing it open becomes almost a breeze. I think it still needs to be worked a bit to soften it up some - it’s still a lot stiffer on the pivot than the Mnandi - but it’s getting there.
 
One thing I've found to help with breaking in is, as others have mentioned, just moving the blade while doing something else like watching TV. You don't always have to use the thumb. Some of the movements I do to it are: Finger pinch the blade and swing it almost all the way open and then back until your fingers tap the handle. Another is to hold the lock bar almost open and then, finger pinching the blade, swing it all of the way open and back again. To get the complete, from fully closed, motion, you may need the thumb, but the finger pinch motion can get you most of the way there and is a bit quicker to accomplish (while being careful, of course).

From first receipt, I've found my large Inkosi to be much easier to move than either my large or small Sabenzas. But, I still work it also to help it along a bit more. Eventually, after doing this enough, I'll clean and lube them to jump to the next level.
 
Danny Linguini said:
I finally found the secret to easy(er) thumbing my small Inkosi. My thumb is still pretty sore from trying to break it in these past few days, and it seemed like every so often the blade felt ‘stuck’ and just didn’t want to open. The problem, as most if you probably already know, was my index finger on the lock bar. I thought it was just resting there, but obviously my grip naturally tightens as I exert pressure on the thumb stud to open it, and if my finger happens to be on the bar when that happens, that blade ain’t moving. I found that if I make the conscious effort to place my finger at the top of the pocket clip, pushing it open becomes almost a breeze. I think it still needs to be worked a bit to soften it up some - it’s still a lot stiffer on the pivot than the Mnandi - but it’s getting there.
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Remember that your Inkosi doesnt have a pivot bushing like the sebbie and Mnandi. Its designed to be adjusted, give it i bit of a turn.
 
Kettleman said:
Remember that your Inkosi doesnt have a pivot bushing like the sebbie and Mnandi. Its designed to be adjusted, give it i bit of a turn.
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I had backed the pivot screw way out, to the point that I could see a gap between the screw head and the handle, and it didn’t change the tension much, if at all. I think it just needs a little more time - it seems to be softening up ever so slightly.
 
Danny Linguini said:
I had backed the pivot screw way out, to the point that I could see a gap between the screw head and the handle, and it didn’t change the tension much, if at all. I think it just needs a little more time - it seems to be softening up ever so slightly.
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When they are new the stop pin is almost press fit into the scale. Once its taken down once and cleaned the pivot adjust real well as the stop pin floats as designed.
 
Bought a sebenza after a long time debating if the crk was worth the money , love it, great knives, great action and everything. It became my weekend warrior.

But wanted something that would take some more abuse for a daily user. Got a deal on a used pj inkosi with some blade scratches and decided it would be my daily user/beater for work. The inkosi never left my pocket for about 3 months now.

Bought him a brother a pj tanto, because i love the design of the crk tanto. So, between al my knives ( all users) in a short time I added 3 CRK’s, love the knives and I understand where the love is coming from, they are great! But 1 sebenza and 2 inkosi, love them all, but prefer the inkosi, it just fits me more
 
DocJekl said:
I have a similar older Inkosi Insingo in S35VN and natural Micarta, so upgrading to Magnacut in black made sense, at least in my mind.

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So, should I cancel or change my glass blasted small PJ Inkosingo order from early 2022 (direct with CRK) to a large, since the only thing different vs this one is the glass blasted smooth instead of an inlay?

I'm pretty happy with my large S45VN Inkosingo PJ with sand blasted scales. So, maybe just cancel, since I have a Magnacut upgrade blade for the KnifeArt coming around late spring 2024...
 
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