The Mini Hatchet

The single cross wedge is an interesting thought. I found some small burrs inside the eye at top and bottom that were affecting fitting it. Apparently resulting from the forging process. Filed them out so it should help on round two. Run the tip of your little finger in the eye and see if yours has them.
 
I feel you fellers(pun intended) pain on fitting the eyes on these little heads.. I've hung a few of the little collared hatchets, they also have a small eye..

I know there are many ways to skin a possum, but here is how I've learned to fit tiny eyes with pretty good success. I make the tongue a little long in the beginning, maybe an inch or more longer than needed. Then, once the tongue is fitted to start in the eye, it can be lowered down the haft for a perfect fit by removing compression marks. I keep lowering it until the initial fitting gaps are well above head and can be cut off. I taper the kerf just a little so the wedge can push the sides a little better to fill any small gaps. I also make a wedge maybe 4 or 5 inches long, that can be easily removed and re-profiled a little if I see it's not going to fill the eye well.
 
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Just a couple of quick pictures of the William Mann hatchet with the mini Craftsman. The weight shows at 11oz on my scale or 3 more than the Craftsman and Vaughan heads. The eye is rather large and the walls are thin. Luckily this head wasn't beaten on as I'm not sure it would take that sort of abuse. So in my research this head dates back to around the mid 1800's which I find pretty interesting, though someone please correct me if I'm wrong.


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HI all, this is my first try at making a haft from scratch. I had a five quarter piece of curly maple that a friend gave me so I thought I'd give it a try. I think the hardest part for me was fitting that tiny eye 3/8"x7/8" I ended up with a little over 12 inches overall length which is a little longer than the original, but it works for my oversize paws. As you can see from the pictures, the damage to the cutting edge required a file back and a lot of reprofiling. I like to use all my axes/hatchets so I would have passed on this except I got it for cheap so that made it worth while. I'm sure I'll find some uses such as pruning, carving and maybe even parting out chickens. Thanks for looking, S W


This is going to take some time!




Edge after filing back
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I'm happy with the way it turned out.
 
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Very nice work one the handle, hang, and reprofiling of the head Siskiyou Woodsman. Have you had a chance to put it to use yet? Looking at the work you did to the bit I'm guessing that it would work quite well for its size. I really like the wood you used for the handle, is that curly maple?
 
Very nice work one the handle, hang, and reprofiling of the head Siskiyou Woodsman. Have you had a chance to put it to use yet? Looking at the work you did to the bit I'm guessing that it would work quite well for its size. I really like the wood you used for the handle, is that curly maple?
Thank you, yes I forgot to mention that it is curly maple.
 
Love the profile on the Mann! That will make a sweet hatchet.

Beautiful work S. Woodsman!
 
I finally got this craftsman fitted to a handle today. Bought a hammer handle for a buck and rasped it to fit. Not done yet, still have to cut the kerf, sand it down, make a wedge and hang. Group pic here.
I didn't like the feel of the Marbles handle. The metal shroud that houses the blade guard created hot spots and it was just too thin for my hands. Wrapped it in paracord. Much better now. With the swell I don't think I will have a problem with it coming off. I'll put it to use soon and find out.
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Rockman0, good to see you got a handle for it. Funny since yesterday I was messing with mine as well. I pulled the handle I'd made for my older Vaughan to do some more reprofiling and fit it to a different handle eventually. So just because I could I tossed the Craftsman on the handle from the Vaughan, even reused the wedge. Gave it a couple of swings and I can tell already its going to be a great little hatchet. Let me know how you like yours once you get it wedged up.
 
Gransfors Bruks Small Hatchet Initial Thoughts

I recently was fortunate enough to participate in a pass around of a Gransfors Bruks Small Hatchet or better known as the Mini Hatchet. I did a comparison of sorts to my Vaughan Sportsman's Axe being my only 8oz hatchet in good working order at the time. Eight ounces or a half pound is the head weight specified by both Vauaghan and Gransfors Bruks, I can only attest to Vaughan's head weight specs being accurate. The handle seems short having grown used to the 12” handle I made for my Vaughan. It is however the exact length that was used on the older American half pound mini hatchets based off the two that I own. And one last detail in common seems to be a bit length of around 2.5”. So the weight of the head, length of the handle and bit length seem to be derived from the classic American half pound hatchets, but that is about where the similarities seem to end.

The head of the GB is longer than the other 8 oz hatchets I own by about .5” primarily to make room for the larger eye. The poll is shorter and a bit longer but about the same thickness as my examples. The bit appeared to be thicker than two of my mini hatchets, but after making a quick gauge however I discovered that the bit was very similar to my current user. I was interested to find that the bit of the GB does have a slight high centerline, though nowhere near as pronounced as my Craftsman or the currently produced Vaughan.

Some other things of note. I was surprised at how loose the sheath was, perhaps I'm being picky but if I'd paid the asking price for the tool you'd bet I would be nitpicking it. The strap is loose enough that it can be slipped over the poll without being unsnapped. The head has a neat feel to it being machine forged by hand, this is something that can't be faked in a mass produced axe head. Even the eye has some imperfections that are clues to this, though nothing that would ever hinder it in use. The head has a beard and ears with a design that reminds me greatly of 1700’s era American bag axes that I've seen with a very similar design.
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I finally understand the comments about how nicely your hand fits into the area behind the beard when you choke all the way up. I must admit it gives a very secure and comfortable grip on the axe that can't be matched with my Vaughan. An interesting aspect of this head design I've noticed though is that it actually seems to shorten the effective handle length. The toe seems to sit just slightly below the top of the eye and as the axe head sits the bit is noticeably lower than the top of the eye. This seems to put the effective handle length somewhere closer to 9-9.5” and might explain why a lot of folks seem to note that the handle feels too short.

Now for those rolling their eyes at the above wall of text here are a few pictures.

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From left to right a normal sized hatchet more than likely a Kelly Woodslasher, a 14 oz no name, Marbles Camp hatchet, 11 oz William Mann/Lippincott Co, vintage red paint Vaughn Sportsman's Axe, Craftsman mini hatchet, Gransfors Bruks Small Hatchet, Vaughn Sportsman's Axe current production.

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Craftsman, Vaughan, Vaughan, GB, William Mann

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Just the half pound heads with some commonplace items for scale. A Victorinox Pioneer, Victorinox Jetsetter III, AAA battery, and standard alphanumeric one way pager.

I decided to take some measurements of the GB and one of my American half pound hatchets since there always seems to be confusion around just how small these hatchets are. The measurements are rounded but close enough to give a very good idea of the actual size of these things, +/- 1/16”. Should be easy enough to draw out either set of measurements on some paper to get a physical idea of the size.

Gransfors Bruks Small Hatchet: 4” from bit to poll, 2.5” bit, 1.25” tall poll, ¾” at the widest point, handle 10” from top of the eye to the bottom of the knob

Craftsman half pound hatchet: 3.5” from poll to bit, 2.5” bit, 1.5” tall poll, .5” at the widest point, handle 10” from top of the eye to the bottom of the knob

First time using the GB left me with some initial impressions. The handle being shorter was immediately evident. First thing I tested it on was a seasoned pear tree branch with a 4” diameter. My Vaughan out chopped the GB, though I couldn't be clear as to if this was due to the difference in the head design or the extra length of the home brew handle on my Vaughan. I realized that I was experiencing far more fatigue with the GB both in my hand and arm. I naturally used a different technique that involved more of a full arm swing rather than the wrist flick used with the Vaughan. This caused me to grip it tighter as well since the pivot point is above the handle and this I believe is what caused the hand fatigue. The arm is obviously from having to use more muscles to achieve the same or similar force. I'm sure being on the tail end of a nasty sinus infection didn't help either.

Moving on to splitting. I found that the GB didn't want to bit into the wood and stick going with the grain to try to start a split. I switched to the Vaughan to see if it was just the wood as pear is tough stuff. Nope the Vaughan bit in and started a split with ease where the GB had failed after a vigorous attempt. I switched back to the GB to attempt to finish the split and it sunk into the ramp where it stopped due to the steep transition from cheeks to eye. Back to the Vaughan and again with ease I finished the split. This definitely seems to come down to profile and I can't see there being a difference scaling up in size to a full sized hatchet or pulp wood axe either.

Right off the bat if it was my hatchet I would want to replace the handle with one around 2-2½” longer with a knob more to my liking. The problem is this isn't something you generally want to do with a $150 hatchet, or feel like you should have to for that matter.
 
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Anyway now that my rambling is through, here are some pictures of me playing, ahem I mean thoroughly testing the Gransfors Bruks Small Hatchet.

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A sizable and twisted section of pear wood split using my wedge method

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Starting a crack

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Driving in a wedge

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And a resulting pile of manageable wood within a few minutes

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It will chop, and while I'm sure it beats the snot out of a stone axe, I'm still convinced it could perform much better with a different handle.

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Some crap I made while fooling around. The spoon is actually functional, well technically.
 
I found that even being accustomed to using a similar sized hatchet I needed to give the GB time to get used to the tool. Once I did this I was able to accomplish a lot more with it. This is essentially true of any tool but in this case I grew to like it more over time rather than simply tolerate it.

The steel reminds me very much of my vintage American axes. It's certainly not the hardest I've come across, but far from the softest steel in any axe I've handled. The axe takes an extremely fine edge with no effort at all, and holds it well enough through its intended uses. It seems to be very similar to the steel used in my Vaughan if not just a little softer. It is what you would hope for in a quality axe for sure, nothing more and nothing less.

I appreciate the larger eye, though I find myself wishing for something in-between my Vaughan and the Gransfors Bruks. A longer and slightly wider eye than the Vaughan that still allows for a narrow profile with a smooth ramp would be best in my opinion. I found the width of the eye, steepness of the ramp, and the deeply cut beard to be an impedance when splitting wood. I needed to rely on a wedge to aid in splitting far more than I do with my Vaughan.

Something with the handle, aside from its short length just didn’t settle well with me. It's wider from front to back towards the top giving it a comfortable feel when choking up. Towards the bottom it gets narrower and then sweeps forward slightly at the knob. I just didn't find it to be comfortable in use at all and I think it's my least favorite thing about the hatchet. After extended use of the GB I noticed my hand was a little sore between my thumb and index fingers, as well at the back of the palm.

It's been asked if folks using the GB Small Hatchet would take the hatchet into the woods in the place of a belt knife, absolutely I would. I don't like large or thick knives and I really like working with axes or hatchets so for me pairing this with a folder would be a great option. Currently I use the trio of my Vaughan Sportsman's Axe, Victorinox Farmer or Pioneer, and Mora Classic #1. Once you get some practice splitting with a hatchet, even a small one with an 8oz head it becomes a simple and efficient task. My perception of the intended use for these hatchets is that they are a ultralight, ultra-packable hatchet for camp chores and craft. They are good for knocking in tent pegs, wedges and small nails, splitting kindling, chopping or notching (chop a couple of notches and whack it on a rock) smaller sized wood, butchering game (from what I've read), rough carving work and so on. They are not a felling axe nor a splitting maul but if given the chance they can get a lot done, and are no harder to pack in than a medium to large knife.

I'm sure I won't make any friends with this comment but for anyone considering an axe like this I would actually recommend the Vaughan over the Gransfors Bruks. The Vaughan is ⅙th the price. The Gransfors Bruks comes with a leather cover and has a larger eye making the handle irrefutably stronger. That said in my time I found that the Vaughan generally outperformed the Gransfors Bruks in the tasks that I would use a tool like this for. This was especially true when it came to splitting wood. I have to be clear that I needed to put the effort into profiling the bit on the Vaughan, but the effort was well worth it. If the primary use for the tool was to be carving I could see the Gransfors Bruks having an advantage, but I still think I would recommend the Gransfors Bruks Small Carving Hatchet over the Small Hatchet. This is because it appears to have a better handle design made specifically for carving. For me personally carving is secondary, and I already have a favorite hatchet for the task.


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It gets sharp!


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A poorly done one stick fire prep in the short reprieve from the rain and snow this weekend.


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And we have fire! Sadly I had to head back inside at this point but I couldn’t not do a fire with the GB while I had it in my possession now could I ;-)

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Some comparison photos between the Gransfors Bruks Small Hatchet and the Vaughan Sportsman’s Axe.
 
I have a Wetterlings 10" mini hatchet that I really like. The head I'm estimating around 1#. I purchased it after Wetterlings was bought out. The head/handle is an almost identical pattern to the GB (unlike the more clunky look of the current Wetterling minis). IMO it's better than a GB, because while it retains the typical GB Hudson Bay profile (which I like in small hatchets/axes that might be used for carpentry type work); it has a more gradual wedge from the bit to the eye for much better splitting. It has the benefit of wider eye for a substantial handle that doesn't rapidly taper into a small eye like a Vaughn.

Stepping up ... another hatchet I have which I really like is a $15 dollar Ames True Temper that I bought at Lowe's about 10 years ago before Ames True Temper started outsourcing to other countries. It has a traditional American style head with a larger eye. It has a great blend of a thin bit transition to a wider eye for a great balance between chopping and splitting. I haven't seen Lowe's carry these for a number of years. In a batch of 6 or 7 I found a near perfect one for handle fit/finish and alignment. This is pretty much the small Boy Scout axe on a 11-12" handle.

Stepping up again ... I also have 2-1/4# Plumb with a larger eye that I put on a longer 13" handle for a light head with more striking power. In a belt carry, the extra length and head weight is negligible and has the benefit of increased striking power.

If the hatchet is going in a backpack where weight reduction is essential, it's usually the little 10" Wetterlings mini. If it's carried on the belt I prefer the Plumb with a longer handle.
 
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Thunderstruck,

Sounds like you have some quality tools to me. If your able would you mind posting some pictures of your Wetterlings, I wasn't aware that they had a potentially better designed small hatchet. Then again I don't pay enough attention to modern axes as part of the fun for me is restoration, hafting and so on. Don't get me wrong I have six regular sized hatchets, three boys axe sized axes, and three full sized axes and I enjoy them all. I'm also working on setting up a Kelly Woodslasher hatchet on a 19" handle to have a large hatchet option similar to the SFA. I came across some old adverts and even a couple of vintage axes with a similar setup which tells me the idea is nothing new. I'm just a sucker for these little sub pound hatchets. Never a reason to go with out an axe of some sort with one or more of these to choose from, and I find they are well underrated.
 
I don't have a photobucket account but it looks identical to this GB http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/gransforsbruksminibelthatchet.aspx
The only differences are that is says Wetterlings and it has a gradual taper from the bit to the eye instead of a pronounced one. I'm thinking there was a transition time when Gransfors may have been making Wetterlings or Wetterlings was making theirs more similar to GBs. I had a SFA which I sold that was a Wetterlings purchased over this time and it also looked very similar to a GB profile except for a more gradual taper from the bit to the eye. I don't know what else to say except they are different from the ones I see listed now by Wetterlings.
 
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