The Problem with Buck Liner Locks

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I think the liner lock came into play along with what was called the "Veteran" which was a razor type folder with a odd shaped end, lack of better term, that a soldier who lost an arm in the service could carry a knife and could use it by sliding the oddly shaped razor blade down his trousers, the blade would catch and open. The liner lock is the same principle, 1 handed use. Either design these knives were used for light basic knife tool use, not heavy duty prying or twisting.
 
Sticking the blade in a cutting board and applying pressure isn't the same as cutting a watermelon crooked...
 
“The problem with Buck liner locks.” = “The problem with all liner locks.”

The thread title insinuates that you’ve discovered some unknown issues that plagues every liner lock Buck builds.

This is why you’re getting flack from the loyalists.

I have Buck liner locks that I could use as a hammer and not worry about the lock failing. Then I have some that I wont use for much more than opening the mail, boxes, or apples.

The real issue here is more about the right tool for a particular job. I don’t trim my toe nails with the same little trimmers I use on my finger nails. Tougher job = Tougher tool.

I’m not a fan of liner locks or frame locks personally. I have a serious issue with any knife where a natural user grip contacts the locking mechanism. You develop a subconscious sense of confidence that because the word “lock” is used that it’s safe for all cutting tasks which is seriously misguided.

That being said, I do carry liner locks but I won’t use them for anything I wouldn’t use a slip-joint for.

Office duty = liner lock or slip joint
Work/hunting = lock back or fixed blade

There are many folks who carry nothing but slip-joints and have never had an issue with the blade closing on them. They know the limitations and have the discipline.

Then there are the people who think there is some inherent design flaw when a knife fails where they think it shouldn’t and the reality is they probably should have been using a different tool for the job.

Every knife will fail at some point. Seeking that point out and then calling it a design flaw though???
 
I had a liner lock disengage when I dropped it in the grass. Of course a knife is designed to cut, not to be dropped in the grass, but my confidence in the knife was never recovered.
 
MT_Pokt said:
“The problem with Buck liner locks.” = “The problem with all liner locks.”

The thread title insinuates that you’ve discovered some unknown issues that plagues every liner lock Buck builds.

This is why you’re getting flack from the loyalists.

I have Buck liner locks that I could use as a hammer and not worry about the lock failing. Then I have some that I wont use for much more than opening the mail, boxes, or apples.

The real issue here is more about the right tool for a particular job. I don’t trim my toe nails with the same little trimmers I use on my finger nails. Tougher job = Tougher tool.

I’m not a fan of liner locks or frame locks personally. I have a serious issue with any knife where a natural user grip contacts the locking mechanism. You develop a subconscious sense of confidence that because the word “lock” is used that it’s safe for all cutting tasks which is seriously misguided.

That being said, I do carry liner locks but I won’t use them for anything I wouldn’t use a slip-joint for.

Office duty = liner lock or slip joint
Work/hunting = lock back or fixed blade

There are many folks who carry nothing but slip-joints and have never had an issue with the blade closing on them. They know the limitations and have the discipline.

Then there are the people who think there is some inherent design flaw when a knife fails where they think it shouldn’t and the reality is they probably should have been using a different tool for the job.

Every knife will fail at some point. Seeking that point out and then calling it a design flaw though???
Click to expand...

So, the knife in the first video, would carving a pumpkin be an acceptable use for that knife? It is a Buck knife and I'm pretty sure it's liner lock was made by Buck.

I do intend to buy a large pumpkin tomorrow and make a video.

So tell me, should I be using my Buck liiner lock knife to carve on my pumpkin?
 
Putting on ignore. Op has gathered more than enough info and opinions from many long time buck owners who have forgotten more than I will ever know.

Ps, if your going to carve a pumpkin use a fixed blade. We don't need to see missing digits. The twisting and tough carving might cause your knife to fail. So use the right tool for the job.
 
Makael said:
Putting on ignore. Op has gathered more than enough info and opinions from many long time buck owners who have forgotten more than I will ever know.

Ps, if your going to carve a pumpkin use a fixed blade. We don't need to see missing digits. The twisting and tough carving might cause your knife to fail. So use the right tool for the job.
Click to expand...

Do you think I could carve on a rotisserie chicken with my Buck liner lock knife? Would that be improper use? Wrong tool?
 
Website description:
"Fast, smooth, and powerful – the Inertia springs open with a single flick of the thumb. This newly updated addition to our assisted opening family is constructed with a nylon, easy grip handle and a stainless steel frame lock. The drop point, tumbled blade locks in place when open for ultimate safety. A heavy-duty knife with an elegant look and the practicality you’ll love.
Comes with a stainless steel pocket clip.
Made in the USA."

sassafrassdogs3 said:
I think the liner lock came into play along with what was called the "Veteran" which was a razor type folder with a odd shaped end, lack of better term, that a soldier who lost an arm in the service could carry a knife and could use it by sliding the oddly shaped razor blade down his trousers, the blade would catch and open. The liner lock is the same principle, 1 handed use. Either design these knives were used for light basic knife tool use, not heavy duty prying or twisting.
Click to expand...

I never suggested prying or twisting as a use for either of the Buck knives in my videos. A sideways force, however, is something that can happen when cutting. Locking mechanisms for folding knives were invented for a reason. Also, you won't find the words "light duty" in the knife description.
 
back on the topic.....I just checked a standard plastic newer version 293 with the op's extreme side load on blade test. my lockbar didnt move like the ops did. have to assume his is defective or pivot is too loose and has too much play maybe something like that. I also checked a few vantages no issues either like the ops. checked some other brands from cheaper than buck made in china stuff to far more expensive......could not replicate the ops issue.

take from that what you will......

OP maybe trying tightening the pivot and/or send to buck.....
 
jbmonkey said:
back on the topic.....I just checked a standard plastic newer version 293 with the op's extreme side load on blade test. my lockbar didnt move like the ops did. have to assume his is defective or pivot is too loose and has too much play maybe something like that. I also checked a few vantages no issues either like the ops. checked some other brands from cheaper than buck made in china stuff to far more expensive......could not replicate the ops issue.

take from that what you will......

OP maybe trying tightening the pivot and/or send to buck.....
Click to expand...

Can you give us a video of your test? I have two Vantage knives, they don't flex. Good design there.

Right now, I'm not trying to fix my 293. It is exactly as it came to me. Right now, it is exhibit A.

But you know, the pivot might be loose, I suppose. Watch the video, the flex comes from the handle.

I won't tighten the pivot, regardless, I'll send it in when I no longer need it for exhibit A.

And I see you are still working to discredit the issue I am presenting. You might stop and consider what you are doing. And the side load need not be extreme, I have shown that to myself using a cutting board. I will have to make another video and it might have a wider audience for all my trouble.
 
Why do you post something and give your opinion and ask for others, then try to make it personal when anyone disagrees with what you have come up with. You did it with the Marksman and now you're doing it again?
 
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I just stopped by my local Wally World and saw they had their version of the 293 in stock. Cool looking knife, but it had the thinnest liner lock I have seen outside of a gas station or flea market. Not too impressive looking at all. It may hold up fine, but couple that with a nonadjustable pivot and I had to walk away.
 
Stephen W Huyssoon said:
Can you give us a video of your test? I have two Vantage knives, they don't flex. Good design there.

Right now, I'm not trying to fix my 293. It is exactly as it came to me. Right now, it is exhibit A.

But you know, the pivot might be loose, I suppose. Watch the video, the flex comes from the handle.

I won't tighten the pivot, regardless, I'll send it in when I no longer need it for exhibit A.

And I see you are still working to discredit the issue I am presenting. You might stop and consider what you are doing. And the side load need not be extreme, I have shown that to myself using a cutting board. I will have to make another video and it might have a wider audience for all my trouble.
Click to expand...

take my word for it or dont, your choice. do what you want was just trying to help.
 
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