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If it's a factory convex from Busse a strop will in many cases (depending on how dull it has become) bring it back to shaving sharp. My NMFSHLE came shaving sharp but after a few days of chopping it would no longer shave or cut paper at all, 5 minutes on the strop and it was shaving sharp again, if i remember it correctly i stropped the NMFSHLE sharp again 4 times before i had to get the stones out.
The v edges that Busse put on many of Combat Grade knifes have a bit rougher finish and don't respond as well as the convex edges on the strop but after being sharpened on a fine stone or belt they can usually be taken back to shaving quite easily.
As for strops, I make my own and here is a good thread showing you how http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/640503-Make-a-leather-strop
If you want to buy a good strop you can try http://www.stropman.com or http://www.flexxxstrops.com/
Lennox,
Great thread, I'll definitely be buying some of the things you've mentioned. Have to get myself some strops and water stones and possibly a new sharpening system.
Question when you sharpen INFI do you drag the blade edge across the stone or push the edge ? Although I'm sure you'll be getting into technique soon enough, I saw you mentioned more was to come.
Thanks again !!![]()
Great info. Thanks!
I've been working with waterstones lately as well & am getting some good results, but more info./tips is appreciated.
Lennox, this is a great thread! When using the Spyderco sharp maker for convex edges, which of the two angles is best to put the rods? Thank you again!!
Great info, Lennox!
Not to distract from the thread, but Murray Carter is a really great guy with some amazing sharpening vids.
I met him at blade show some years back, solid dude.
i posted this question in the switchblade forums already:
does an egde become dull because of oxidation when the knife is not being used for several years?