Thoughts on a Suga variant

KP513 said:
Thanks cul, and those are good points. Let's wait on what the design's progenitor, Scara, has to say. When he's all set, I'll add those notes and send the scanned drawing to him, and he can take it from there.
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Looks good. Let's do it.
 
So a small update, I believe the design to be final, but I am waiting at least until my 11 in. normal Suga comes in the mail before I talk to Auntie about it. It seems prudent, especially now that I have a Suga on the way, to wait until I have a Suga in hand for comparison. However I've shown the design to a few people and all have quite liked the design, including people who know what they're dong with a knife.
 
Sounds great Scara, I can't wait to hear what you think when you get your Suga in hand and how or if that effects your view of the variation you have worked out.
 
Shavru said:
Sounds great Scara, I can't wait to hear what you think when you get your Suga in hand and how or if that effects your view of the variation you have worked out.
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I kind of suspect my Suga will be arriving today, at least based on how long it takes most people to receive their knives.
 
I semi predict your gonna dig it just the way it is myself. Just a scientific guess but they feel pretty sweet in hand.
 
Ok, now that I have the 1:1 scale drawing I'll be talking to Auntie this week. I've also got an 11" Suga and it's made me more confident in the Scara Suga design than before. I like the original design, but there are some small things about it that I like less, and I think the Scara Suga addresses them well, most particularly in the grip.
 
Thought I'd add an image of the scan (with increased contrast) so everyone can seen the undistorted final concept.

 
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KP513 - Thanks for all the work. The Scara variant looks great. Hopefully, a run of these will be made, and there'll be some interest.

Scara - It was a great idea, and I'm glad that it got to the finish line, and now it just needs to actually be produced. Good Job!
 
I don't want to stir up the mud but that's what I do best. Iffen it were me I'd knock another inch of the blade. Take out 1" in front of the cho there, keep everything else exactly the same. There's an inch of blade there that serves no useful purpose.

On a daily carry knife every inch counts. Here I think in most places were only allowed 3 1/2? blades but I can talk my way out of half and inch. I do it all the time with the missus.

Just sharing thoughts, not criticism and it's not about me, it's about Scara so take the ball my friend and run with it, I'll block for ya!
 
Scara:

Starting with this drawing (full size) it should be pretty easy to cut out the outline of the blade in cardboard. Using several layers of cardboard glued together you could indicate the desired blade thickness and handle thickness.

It would be even better to do a full size model in wood, but that's a lot harder.

What I'd suggest is first an email to Yangdu with the drawing and proposal. If she thinks it's feasible, then send her the solid model, in wood if possible, otherwise in cardboard.

Keep in mind that the kami is hammering red hot steel when making one of these knives, and he's more likely to make what you want if he just has to keep glancing at a solid model rather than working from written measurements on a drawing.
 
Bawanna said:
I don't want to stir up the mud but that's what I do best. Iffen it were me I'd knock another inch of the blade. Take out 1" in front of the cho there, keep everything else exactly the same. There's an inch of blade there that serves no useful purpose.

On a daily carry knife every inch counts. Here I think in most places were only allowed 3 1/2? blades but I can talk my way out of half and inch. I do it all the time with the missus.

Just sharing thoughts, not criticism and it's not about me, it's about Scara so take the ball my friend and run with it, I'll block for ya!
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That's actually a good point about shortening it. However I'd prefer you provide covering fire instead of just blocking. Come to think of it though, I think at least in some areas the length of the blade starts from where it's sharpened. Still, this would be an opportunity to shorten it a little more for ease of carry.

davidf99: We were planning on a wooden model, if Bawanna is willing. But first I will be talking to Yangdu.

cul4u01: Thank you for the kind words about the design. I have every intention of making sure it becomes a reality, and not just a single example for myself.
 
Covering fire it is. Kind of always lean to the right, I have a tendency to shoot a bit left. if your ever a hostage, always,always lean to your left.

Talk to Auntie first of course. If she endorses the plan and feels a wood model is best get me a scale copy of that drawing and I'll try to whittle one out. I've been chewing it a bit in my head since the original concept. I think I can do it, hope I can do it. Well I might be able to do it. If I'm lucky.
 
Bawanna said:
Covering fire it is. Kind of always lean to the right, I have a tendency to shoot a bit left. if your ever a hostage, always,always lean to your left.

Talk to Auntie first of course. If she endorses the plan and feels a wood model is best get me a scale copy of that drawing and I'll try to whittle one out. I've been chewing it a bit in my head since the original concept. I think I can do it, hope I can do it. Well I might be able to do it. If I'm lucky.
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I will be talking to Auntie first. I'd hate to find out after you spent the effort making a wooden model that the project isn't feasible.

And lean left if Bawanna is shooting someone off my back, got it. Hmm, I think going deadweight might work too. That also makes it harder for the other guy to move around.
 
In your drawing, it appears that the spine of the blade is sharpened all the way to the handle, including the part with the jimping. Was that your intention? If not, you should mark the drawing to show at what point the sharpened swedge part stops and becomes a flat spine. Of course, if a wooden model is made, then this would be clearer. And as I mentioned before, if you want to keep the cho, I think it should be moved back as close to the handle as possible - the part of the blade between the cho and the handle really serves no purpose (other than as a place for the Kami to mark the blade).
 
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Good eye mopar, I didn't notice that but your right. I assume it would be like the Suga and only sharp back to the bend up front there below the 5" notation.
 
moparsbob said:
In your drawing, it appears that the spine of the blade is sharpened all the way to the handle, including the part with the jimping. Was that your intention? If not, you should mark the drawing to show at what point the sharpened swedge part stops and becomes a flat spine. Of course, if a wooden model is made, then this would be clearer. And as I mentioned before, if you want to keep the cho, I think it should be moved back as close to the handle as possible - the part....
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That gives me an idea for a "decoy knife" that is sharpened all the way up the spine and including the handle.

You carry the decoy knife in a sheath in front, and when your opponent cleverly grabs it, he gets a surprise. :)

A variation of this idea, involving a sword, was done in one of the deleted scenes from the "Kill Bill, Vol. 2" movie. It's on the dvd.
 
I see where the confusion is, the line along the flat spine is the indent found in most HI kukhuri. I can make mods to that and the cho if that's the consensus, but not for a while, I'm pretty buried by exams.
 
I thought that might be the case and looking again, that line is a little more definite. Funny how you look at the same picture twice and you come away with two different thoughts.

Just a simple break between the two lines would be sufficient and if a model is sent it won't be an issue.
 
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