I don't remember having this issue with any Bucks I've owned, but I did have a Case Trapper with too short a kick that would flat spot on me. Ob another note I just picked up a 2 dot 110 off Ebay for $22 shipped. Should have it by Saturday. Looks a little rough but nothing some TLC won't fix
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Tip damage from "over closing" Buck 110??
- Thread starter ShelterMe
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I own one 110 2dot purchased in 1979 replacing my 1970 ish that was stolen.
Now own 10- 110’s and 2-112’s and none have this issue.
Now own 10- 110’s and 2-112’s and none have this issue.
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Yes, older does not always mean better, but when it comes to 110s this may often be the case.
In my case, getting older has not helped.
In my case, getting older has not helped.
pjsjr
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In my case, getting older has not helped.
Wish I didn't understand that, my 110s have much better fitness and structural integrity than I do. Preston
Makael
Loving wife, kids and life.
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All 110s do it. No exceptions. They may not hit when letting close by themselves but squeeze the blade down and it stops resting on the spring holder. Im surprised of the answers denying it. I dont think its an issue. I just know if you squeeze it will hit.Pic of the spring holder in the 110 LT with scrapes I put on it moving the blade back and forth.
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Yeah, that's all been discussed before.
What was being questioned here is the difference in the strength of the springs and different variations in the kicks of 110s over the years.
What was being questioned here is the difference in the strength of the springs and different variations in the kicks of 110s over the years.
Makael
Loving wife, kids and life.
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I can post what I want slick. Don't discredit some pics of the rubbing.
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Over the normal life of the blade it'll become a non-issue with continued sharpening. I don't usually let my blade snap shut on my 110's but after reading this thread I did and now they have the markings. I looked at my late 60's 110 that has seen many sharpening sessions and that has the marks too.
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Yeah, it's never been an issue with my 110s for around 50 years of 110 use.
I like a really sharp knife and I tend to sharpen a lot and be an aggressive sharpener. I've always done it while watching TV and maybe put in more time at it than most people and get better results.......even with 440C and an old Arkansas Stone.........sometimes patience is a great personality trait.
But the biggest thing is I have no newer 110s.......the newest are a few 2005s that I got because I like the Idaho stamp.
I think the springs are weaker on the new ones and there have always been variations in the kick that also impact how easy it is to squeeze them too hard.
Anyhow......never had any problems in all my many years with many 110s.
I like a really sharp knife and I tend to sharpen a lot and be an aggressive sharpener. I've always done it while watching TV and maybe put in more time at it than most people and get better results.......even with 440C and an old Arkansas Stone.........sometimes patience is a great personality trait.
But the biggest thing is I have no newer 110s.......the newest are a few 2005s that I got because I like the Idaho stamp.
I think the springs are weaker on the new ones and there have always been variations in the kick that also impact how easy it is to squeeze them too hard.
Anyhow......never had any problems in all my many years with many 110s.
Coyja
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Just got my knives back from the factory and here is the result.
The 110 was filthy in the back spacer area and, because of this, you can see by the shiny area that the blade is still hitting.
I want to stress that I only just pulled these out of the mailbox. I have not even closed the knife myself.
How I sent it in on the left, how it was returned on the right.
(Hard to get a clear pic, but there is a clean new dent mark in the dirty back spacer that means it would have happened at the factory and the issue is obviously still there.)
And the D2 112 was returned to me, also quite dirty, somehow with a much stiffer pivot than before, and the tip is still chipped off.
(Sorry of the blur, its as good as I could get it.)
The 110 was filthy in the back spacer area and, because of this, you can see by the shiny area that the blade is still hitting.
I want to stress that I only just pulled these out of the mailbox. I have not even closed the knife myself.
How I sent it in on the left, how it was returned on the right.
(Hard to get a clear pic, but there is a clean new dent mark in the dirty back spacer that means it would have happened at the factory and the issue is obviously still there.)
And the D2 112 was returned to me, also quite dirty, somehow with a much stiffer pivot than before, and the tip is still chipped off.
(Sorry of the blur, its as good as I could get it.)
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What did you ask Buck to do with them? The missing part of the tip looks pretty small, I would have just sharpened it and been done with it. That being said if you requested Buck to do the same thing it's obvious they didn't. Maybe the guy got busy and forgot what he was doing? You really only have a couple of options at this point, sharpen it yourself, send it back to Buck again, sell it or throw it away.
As far as the 110 hitting I'd say the same thing, send it back again, use it and the edge should stop hitting after a few sharpening, sell it or throw it away. Too much hassle for the price point.
The dirt is probably buffing compound.
Regardless of you're decision I'd let J Hubbard know they messed up.
As far as the 110 hitting I'd say the same thing, send it back again, use it and the edge should stop hitting after a few sharpening, sell it or throw it away. Too much hassle for the price point.
The dirt is probably buffing compound.
Regardless of you're decision I'd let J Hubbard know they messed up.
Coyja
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Yes, I asked Buck to fix the tip of the 112.
Its not clear to me that they attempted to sharpen it all all from what I see, the tip looks identically chipped vs what I sent in.
$230+ dollars total invested on 3 knives (I also sent back a Spitfire) that I owned for a single weekend before having to ship them all back to the factory (so add in the return shipping costs, too) and the answer is do it all over again or throw them away? Brutal. IDK, maybe you're right.
Its not that I can't sharpen them myself... its that I don't want to mess with something that seems to have an inherent defect. The factory should have taken care of it. Idk what they did to the 110 CPM154, but the issue with hitting the backspacer is still there. If I am to assume they sharpened it, that didn't fix the issue. I'd prefer a return and refund, but that doesn't seem to be a possibility either at this point.
I will agree that this has all turned into way more of a hassle than I am comfortable with... I don't need this level of pocket knife drama in my life, lol.
I bought these Buck knives thinking I was going to spend a year carrying Buck and see how it goes.
It January and I'm ready to cut my losses and run.
At least I did manage to get a 110LT this past week that appears to have no issues, and I've got that 1992 -110- I found.
I guess I should have stuck to the cheapest price point models instead of the step up for higher quality, lol.
Way to teach me, Buck.
Its not clear to me that they attempted to sharpen it all all from what I see, the tip looks identically chipped vs what I sent in.
$230+ dollars total invested on 3 knives (I also sent back a Spitfire) that I owned for a single weekend before having to ship them all back to the factory (so add in the return shipping costs, too) and the answer is do it all over again or throw them away? Brutal. IDK, maybe you're right.
Its not that I can't sharpen them myself... its that I don't want to mess with something that seems to have an inherent defect. The factory should have taken care of it. Idk what they did to the 110 CPM154, but the issue with hitting the backspacer is still there. If I am to assume they sharpened it, that didn't fix the issue. I'd prefer a return and refund, but that doesn't seem to be a possibility either at this point.
I will agree that this has all turned into way more of a hassle than I am comfortable with... I don't need this level of pocket knife drama in my life, lol.
I bought these Buck knives thinking I was going to spend a year carrying Buck and see how it goes.
It January and I'm ready to cut my losses and run.
At least I did manage to get a 110LT this past week that appears to have no issues, and I've got that 1992 -110- I found.
I guess I should have stuck to the cheapest price point models instead of the step up for higher quality, lol.
Way to teach me, Buck.
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Yep, buy older 110s and be happier.
Coyja
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Yeah... sad.Yep, buy older 110s and be happier.
Part of this experiment was that I wanted to buy something for the baby boy I have due in 6 weeks that I could give him later but that I wanted to have at least been made in 2018.
Basically was between a Buck custom and GEC production, because I wanted an American traditional, but I already have plenty of experience w GEC.
Guess I’ve got that figured out now.
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Buy him a 3-Dot 110.
Unique, engineered like an army tank, good steel.......and only made for one year.
A special knife.
Unique, engineered like an army tank, good steel.......and only made for one year.
A special knife.
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It's only January so there's plenty of year left to get something made in 2018. I really would sharpen the 112 yourself and use it. The tip damage is extremely minor. If your son even has an interest in knives years from now I'm betting just getting one of these from you he'd never even notice any of these issues.
On the flip side some folks will never get past something and that might be where you're at with these. I'm sure someone one on the forum will take them off your hands if you post them for sale.
On the flip side some folks will never get past something and that might be where you're at with these. I'm sure someone one on the forum will take them off your hands if you post them for sale.
Could you please post a non magnified, non closeup photo of the damaged tip on your 112? A photo of just the entire blade would be large enough.Just got my knives back from the factory and here is the result.
The 110 was filthy in the back spacer area and, because of this, you can see by the shiny area that the blade is still hitting.
I want to stress that I only just pulled these out of the mailbox. I have not even closed the knife myself.
How I sent it in on the left, how it was returned on the right.
(Hard to get a clear pic, but there is a clean new dent mark in the dirty back spacer that means it would have happened at the factory and the issue is obviously still there.)
And the D2 112 was returned to me, also quite dirty, somehow with a much stiffer pivot than before, and the tip is still chipped off.
(Sorry of the blur, its as good as I could get it.)
Coyja
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Everyone gets it Badhammer... your repeated advice is use it, sell it, send I back, suck it up, etc. You’ve made yourself clear but I’m not interested in going back and forth on it. If it helps you get on, I will indeed likely be selling these at a loss now.
I’m posted evidence of the issue and the lack of result from a warranty return because I think that is useful info for others that have experienced it. Thanks.
I’m posted evidence of the issue and the lack of result from a warranty return because I think that is useful info for others that have experienced it. Thanks.
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I didn't think you would but thought I'd ask. Just looking at the only photo you've posted of it which looks to be zoomed in a great deal I thought it looked extremely minor and not nearly the issue you've made it out to be. A more appropriately sized photo would have shown me wrong if that's not the case. Just thought my request would be useful to others as well.
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