Tip damage from "over closing" Buck 110??

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Everyone gets it Badhammer... your repeated advice is use it, sell it, send I back, suck it up, etc. You’ve made yourself clear but I’m not interested in going back and forth on it. If it helps you get on, I will indeed likely be selling these at a loss now.

I’m posted evidence of the issue and the lack of result from a warranty return because I think that is useful info for others that have experienced it. Thanks.
Forgive me for putting in my 2¢ and wave it off if you like; I wont be offended: I've been in your situation with all kinds of products. Boots, knives, guns. Don't sell them yet. Sit on them for a while. Use the ones you want to use, chipped blade and all. Don't sweat the dings in the spacers. Take a toothpick and brush and maybe compressed air can and clear the leftover compound out of them. Give em a light polish (Buck did the serious polish, so you won't have to do more than a quickie). Come back to them in May or June when you've destressed a bit and they'll look better to you. With a new child in the world, this will likely look a lot less important.

I don't know whether this has been mentioned, but my old 1970s •110• has hit the spacer so many times it has dug out a trench there and doesn't ding the blade anymore!

I look at my 110s like the Velveteen Rabbit: They only really come to life when they start to show love from use. (I guess by that logic my face got loved a LOT in the boxing ring! o_O)

Zieg
 
Badhammer:
The issue is not if the chip can be sharpened out or how big it is.
IDK how many times people have to say that for it to get through.

The issue is that it shouldn't be happening at all and, additionally, that the factory didn't fix the problem even at the most basic level... as in THEY didn't even sharpen it out. You send in a knife for a sharpening and get it back still chipped... thats not a problem?

I can sharpen my knives just fine, and I enjoy it, but I don't want to be looking to sharpen them all the time due to damage they are receiving from hitting metal within the knife itself.
IDK how many knives I've owned in my life (100 maybe?) but I've never had a knife chip against itself, much less TWO the FIRST day they were used.

I didn't pop into this (already existing) thread on this issue to start some vast conspiracy to discredit Buck.
I actually really like Buck knives... my 110LT appears to be perfect, and the Marksman is also a new favorite, but I don't want to hold onto gear thats going to give me these kinds of problems, especially if the factory is going to waste my time and not fix them.

Its cool if that doesn't appear to be an issue with/for you, and since thats the case there doesn't seem much more to dialogue with you about it, but some folks will never get past things and that might be where you're at with this discussion.

But, there it is... this info is out there now for anyone else that runs into it, and I think thats helpful.

I'm now off to donate a bit more to ShelterMe's GoFundME account, light some incense for my broken tipped 112, and send my 110 off to a Buddhist monastery for the monks to mediate over for a reduction in the suffering of my blade.
Cheers.
 
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Om mani padme hum for your 110! By the way, I neglected to say congratulations on your little one on the way!

Zieg
 
I don’t think I have a 110 that hasn’t touched the spring holder... I won’t keep repeating the advise of others, but something a little different perhaps.

Fact: the hardened steel blade is much harder than the sintered spring holder.
Fact: Buck uses abrasive wheels to put the edge on the blades.
Fact: This causes friction which causes heat.
Fact: Heat is used to anneal (soften) steel.
Theory: (mentioned in this community by others) the finest part of the edge could be left soft as a result of their high speed wheel. These are done by hand so it’s not a stretch to assume this does happen.
Theory: Sharpening the blade using traditional methods might remove this softer fine edge.

Could be why I had only one edge with a mark compared to every spring holder having a dent. After I sharpened that blade, I’ve not had the rolled edge issue return.

Regardless, it’s your decicsion. If you’re going to sell them at a loss, why not give sharpening them a shot?
 
I don’t think I have a 110 that hasn’t touched the spring holder... I won’t keep repeating the advise of others, but something a little different perhaps.

Fact: the hardened steel blade is much harder than the sintered spring holder.
Fact: Buck uses abrasive wheels to put the edge on the blades.
Fact: This causes friction which causes heat.
Fact: Heat is used to anneal (soften) steel.
Theory: (mentioned in this community by others) the finest part of the edge could be left soft as a result of their high speed wheel. These are done by hand so it’s not a stretch to assume this does happen.
Theory: Sharpening the blade using traditional methods might remove this softer fine edge.

Could be why I had only one edge with a mark compared to every spring holder having a dent. After I sharpened that blade, I’ve not had the rolled edge issue return.

Regardless, it’s your decicsion. If you’re going to sell them at a loss, why not give sharpening them a shot?
Very well thought out theory. I agree with and see the logic in everything you surmise.
 
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I don’t think I have a 110 that hasn’t touched the spring holder... I won’t keep repeating the advise of others, but something a little different perhaps.

Fact: the hardened steel blade is much harder than the sintered spring holder.
Fact: Buck uses abrasive wheels to put the edge on the blades.
Fact: This causes friction which causes heat.
Fact: Heat is used to anneal (soften) steel.
Theory: (mentioned in this community by others) the finest part of the edge could be left soft as a result of their high speed wheel. These are done by hand so it’s not a stretch to assume this does happen.
Theory: Sharpening the blade using traditional methods might remove this softer fine edge.

Could be why I had only one edge with a mark compared to every spring holder having a dent. After I sharpened that blade, I’ve not had the rolled edge issue return.

Regardless, it’s your decicsion. If you’re going to sell them at a loss, why not give sharpening them a shot?

So these razor-sharp new Bucks that I hear are so sharp have soft edges? That would explain why this problem seems to show up more on the newer Bucks.

We should hear a comment from Buck on this theory.

Our good Moderator Hubbard should be able to put that to rest one way or the other.

I just checked a bunch of my used 110s and 112s and a very few had a mark on the spring holder and some of these were very slight......but none had any hint of a mark on the blade.

This may be because I have mostly older knives......and checking my two dot and three dot knives......NONE had a mark on spring holder or blade. Marks on spring holders were only on a couple of 420HC knives and nothing on the blades.

I think the older knives had tougher steel, slightly different kicks, different shapes of spring holders and other little variations that kept them from snapping shut so hard.......and it took a little more pressure to squeeze them to the point of contact.

I've actually seen guys who would hold a 110 closed in their hand and keep squeezing it hard against the stop as if it were one of these things.

yhst-61704673892577_2267_7413504__07363.1428431192.500.500.jpg

I guess they were nervous Nellies or had ADHD or something. I can see how that would account for some of the problems.

At any rate, it doesn't appear to hit all knives or all the 110 owners........just some--and it seems there are many possible explanations.

Hasn't hurt the popularity of the great old 110s and 112s, though.

:)
 
I don't believe the theory is applicable to every Buck that rolls off the line nor do I believe it was intended to but I feel that it does accurately take into account the human factor in the manufacturing process and could explain some of the issues we see being reported.

There are innumerable posts on this site across the brand board about burnt edges, wire edges, uneven bevels, dull blades, etc. I'd be willing to bet it the Internet and this board were around when the 110 first went into production we'd see similar complaints.
 
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Thanks BH!

I really hate using up my one good thought for the year in January though... lol
Good thoughts are like sneezes and celebrity deaths, they usually happen in threes so you should have two more coming. Lol!
 
Sending the 110 in to Buck to have the problem of hitting isn't something that can be fixed. Squeeze any 110 and it will touch, ive looked at all my 110 and the ones I use have a mark on the spacer but nothing on the blade. Not an issue with me. Not an issue with most people I suppose with over 15 million sold. I doubt they will ever change it which is fine with me,
So these razor-sharp new Bucks that I hear are so sharp have soft edges? That would explain why this problem seems to show up more on the newer Bucks.

We should hear a comment from Buck on this theory.

Our good Moderator Hubbard should be able to put that to rest one way or the other.

I just checked a bunch of my used 110s and 112s and a very few had a mark on the spring holder and some of these were very slight......but none had any hint of a mark on the blade.

This may be because I have mostly older knives......and checking my two dot and three dot knives......NONE had a mark on spring holder or blade. Marks on spring holders were only on a couple of 420HC knives and nothing on the blades.

I think the older knives had tougher steel, slightly different kicks, different shapes of spring holders and other little variations that kept them from snapping shut so hard.......and it took a little more pressure to squeeze them to the point of contact.

I've actually seen guys who would hold a 110 closed in their hand and keep squeezing it hard against the stop as if it were one of these things.

yhst-61704673892577_2267_7413504__07363.1428431192.500.500.jpg

I guess they were nervous Nellies or had ADHD or something. I can see how that would account for some of the problems.

At any rate, it doesn't appear to hit all knives or all the 110 owners........just some--and it seems there are many possible explanations.

Hasn't hurt the popularity of the great old 110s and 112s, though.

:)
As much as I hate to say it that picture explains it perfectly.
 
Thank you for sharing your experience with the warranty department, Coyja. You seem to be getting some lip from some of the members here who are on my ignore list. I see gaps in the continuity of the thread so have to assume as much, since I can't see their, uh, responses.
 
At about this point I would say that although we are a astute and learned Buck forum, anyone with a complaint about this issue, who has not talked to Jeff Hubbard about it, should contact him as the official factory representative to the Buck forum. That seems the logical route, unless you just like to generate typing talk. 300Bucks
 
At about this point I would say that although we are a astute and learned Buck forum, anyone with a complaint about this issue, who has not talked to Jeff Hubbard about it, should contact him as the official factory representative to the Buck forum. That seems the logical route, unless you just like to generate typing talk. 300Bucks
I did contact Jeff when I sent these in, and he's the one that expedited the warranty coverage for me or else it would have been another week or two before I got them back.
He's evidently out of the office for awhile, but I have received a phone message to return to someone that is covering for him on Monday.
 
I did contact Jeff when I sent these in, and he's the one that expedited the warranty coverage for me or else it would have been another week or two before I got them back.
He's evidently out of the office for awhile, but I have received a phone message to return to someone that is covering for him on Monday.
was at the shot show i imagine.
 
As a small update, I used some needle files to file down the hump in the 110's spacer that the blade appeared to be hitting.
I took a fair amount of metal out of there, and then carried the knife and used it lightly for a day, and noticed a very light blade mark in the spacer afterward. So its still hitting, but now just barely, so I'll be filing it down a bit more to see what the results are like.
 
As a small update, I used some needle files to file down the hump in the 110's spacer that the blade appeared to be hitting.
I took a fair amount of metal out of there, and then carried the knife and used it lightly for a day, and noticed a very light blade mark in the spacer afterward. So its still hitting, but now just barely, so I'll be filing it down a bit more to see what the results are like.
What are you doing to cause the knife to hit? Sheath carry? Pocket carry? Letting the blade slam shut? Just curious.
 
What are you doing to cause the knife to hit? Sheath carry? Pocket carry? Letting the blade slam shut? Just curious.
I used a new sheath that I tested and was in no way compressing the blade (in any position, seated or otherwise)
I do let the blade fall shut. Even so, it shouldn't be rebounding that far into the back of the handle as to hit the spacer... even after I've filed things down.
I do like this CPM154 drop point model, so I'm trying to make it work.
 
I wonder if the shape of the drop point has something to do with hitting the spacer?

It is, after all, a configuration that is alien to the original good design.

Could be a case of unintended consequences from a change.
 
As a small update, I used some needle files to file down the hump in the 110's spacer that the blade appeared to be hitting.
I took a fair amount of metal out of there, and then carried the knife and used it lightly for a day, and noticed a very light blade mark in the spacer afterward. So its still hitting, but now just barely, so I'll be filing it down a bit more to see what the results are like.

If you have a rotary tool and a steady hand, you could use a fiber wheel (for cutting metal). I've done this on one other knife. I think the disk is 1" in diameter. I put the knife in a vice (protected by leather cloth) and was able to remove enough material that the blade wouldn't hit when letting it fall closed. I had to hose the knife out when done, but worked like a charm.
Sure... it's more work than one should have to do with a new knife, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do, right?
 
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